Does this reborn Malaysian institution still deliver after six decades? Here's our verdict
The Harry Seidler-designed site (Neil Perry once ran Rosetta here) features floor-to-ceiling windows and a colour scheme marrying birch, black, red and blue. In the first of many nods to its history, the original Finnish-designed chairs for the 180-seat restaurant have been re-ordered. There are three dining spaces across two levels, with the main area in front of the kitchen led by head chef Siang Yeo and with David Ma on sous duties. (Ma started as a kitchen hand in 2010, and three of the wok chefs have collectively notched up almost 60 years with The Malaya team.)
Chicken satay is a great litmus test at Malaysian restaurants, and this is one of the most tender versions in town. Otak otak – parcels of minced fish and spices wrapped in banana leaf before being grilled – are juicy and aromatic with lemongrass notes embracing barramundi.
It's hard to imagine a laksa without coconut milk, but the ingredient was hard to come by in 1963 (even for a merchant sailor), so dairy milk was used as a substitute. Sydney is full of great laksas but many are guilty of skimping on that signature fiery spice paste. The Malaya's version certainly doesn't. It's a great bowl with perfectly cooked prawns, but I wonder how good it would eat with coconut milk instead.
The XO pipis have sold out by 7.30pm on a Saturday, but this turns out to be a fruitful pivot to another seafood dish, the kam heong mud crab. Literally translated to 'golden fragrance' in Cantonese, the mud crab is tossed in spices and curry leaves, with dried shrimp boosting the umami of the sweet crustacean meat. Outstanding.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
West Australian
a day ago
- West Australian
The New York Times recipe: Crispy sheet-pan noodles with glazed tofu
Contrasting textures are a signature characteristic of Cantonese chow mein, in which crispy fried strands tangle with tender noodles. Here, that is achieved with the help of a sheet pan (baking tray) and an intensely hot oven. To ensure optimal crunch, start with the pan on the bottom rack to crisp the underside of the noodles, then move it up to the highest to encourage crackly noodles on top, too. Instant ramen noodles are the perfect choice for this recipe because they crisp up flawlessly; just soak them in boiling hot water to loosen them up before sliding them into the oven. The hoisin-marinated tofu is subtly sweet and carries a lot of the flavour in this noodle dish. Quick-cooking baby bok choy adds freshness, but you could also use leftover vegetables or seasonal produce. For the noodles 3 blocks instant ramen noodles (about 250g), flavour packets discarded 2 tbsp sesame oil 2 tbsp neutral oil, such as grapeseed or vegetable 2 tbsp soy sauce Salt flakes 1 (400g) package extra-firm tofu, patted dry and cut into ½cm-thick slices 3 baby bok choy, trimmed and sliced vertically into 4 pieces Handful of coriander leaves For the marinade 2 tbsp hoisin 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp maple syrup 1 garlic clove, grated 1 tsp sesame seeds Step 1 Heat oven to 230C and place one rack on the top and one on the bottom. Fill a kettle or medium pot with water (about 8 cups) and bring to a boil. Place the noodles in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Soak for 5 minutes, then drain. Set aside the bowl to use in Step 5. Step 2 Make the marinade: in a medium bowl, whisk to combine the hoisin sauce, sesame oil, maple syrup, garlic and sesame seeds. Step 3 Place the noodles on a baking tray. Add the sesame oil, 1 tbsp neutral oil, soy sauce and ½ tsp salt flakes. Toss to combine, then evenly spread out the noodles. Step 4 Dip each tofu slice into the marinade, coating both sides, then add them to the baking tray, pushing the noodles aside so that the tofu touches the tray and doesn't just sit on top of the noodles. Place on the bottom rack of the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Reserve excess marinade. Step 5 Place the baby bok choy into the reserved bowl, then add the remaining 1 tbsp neutral oil and ½ tsp salt flakes, and toss to coat. Step 6 Remove the baking tray from the oven (the noodles should be crisp on the bottom and at the edges) and add the bok choy to the pan. Return the tray to the top rack of the oven and bake for 4 to 7 minutes until the greens are vibrant with crispy edges, and the top of the noodles are crispy. Drizzle with the remaining marinade, top with coriander leaves and serve. Serves 4 Total time: 35 minutes This article originally appeared in The New York Times . © 2023 The New York Times Company
The Age
3 days ago
- The Age
HK Cafe
This cafe is a finalist for best food in Good Food's Essential Melbourne Cafes and Bakeries of 2025. Essential Melbourne Cafes and Bakeries of 2025: Food See all stories. Cha chaan tengs are Hong Kong's beloved cafes where Cantonese and Western cuisine meet, and this modern example delivers the same trademark comfort food. Slide into a booth and tuck in to rice hidden under gooey scrambled egg flecked with shallots and slices of silky beef, with curried fish balls the perfect snack to order while you wait. Must order: Decadent Hong Kong-style French toast, filled with peanut butter and dripping with condensed milk.
Sydney Morning Herald
3 days ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
HK Cafe
This cafe is a finalist for best food in Good Food's Essential Melbourne Cafes and Bakeries of 2025. Essential Melbourne Cafes and Bakeries of 2025: Food See all stories. Cha chaan tengs are Hong Kong's beloved cafes where Cantonese and Western cuisine meet, and this modern example delivers the same trademark comfort food. Slide into a booth and tuck in to rice hidden under gooey scrambled egg flecked with shallots and slices of silky beef, with curried fish balls the perfect snack to order while you wait. Must order: Decadent Hong Kong-style French toast, filled with peanut butter and dripping with condensed milk.
