Plus-size isn't a fad, inclusion isn't a checkbox: Sobia Ameen

Time of India

2 days ago

The model-activist turns the mota kalo 'slur' on its head. Yet again.
Architect, activist, model and a powerful voice representing South Asian women, Sobia Ameen is acknowledged for her work advocating body positivity and diversity with her unique aesthetic.
But even with a fan following that spans cultures and demographics Sobia is routinely trolled and the recent and most vicious attack has led to an outpouring of support and love from around the world. In a candid conversation with Calcutta Times, Ameen spoke about the irony of trolls using "mota, kalo' (fat and black) to shame her and question her very 'existence,' her tips to young women who look up to her and more.
* I grew up in a culturally rich and diverse household.
I used to push away my mother's Punjabi influence, trying so hard to be only Bangali, not realising then that I could be both, and so much more, all at once.
* We saw a brief push for plus-size representation in the last three-four years in our region. But now, with the Ozempic craze and the return of ultra-thin ideals, the narrative has shifted again, not because inclusivity failed, but because it was treated like a trend.
Sensationalism does not last.
* There is no single way to define a 'brown girl', we are a melting pot of cultures, histories, gene pools, traditions, traumas and lived experiences. We are drastically different yet deeply connected through similarities. So instead of trying to fit into one fixed aesthetic, we should celebrate the many forms we come in.
Sobia says: 'What feels good, looks good. Love yourself. Every single day, not just when you feel your best'
You have been the face of both defiance and grace for South Asian women - featured in global magazines, campaigned for global brands. But here you are, once again, speaking up for your right to be seen the way you wish to. For agency. Why do you think we are still struggling to walk the talk when it comes to inclusivity and respect?
I do not seek agency from cowards hiding behind a screen. I will continue to be myself and pursue my goals on my own terms, no one can take that away from me.
All I'm saying is -live and let live. I am open to constructive criticism, but when the commentary is purely about my body, I think I speak for many people with feminine bodies when I say: we have the right to express ourselves and to defend that expression. The root issue is bigotry and patriarchy and let's be honest, some of the harshest comments come from women too.
But that, again, is a reflection of patriarchal conditioning.
Many of these women look like me. That is the irony. The system is skewed in how it perceives women and the feminine, as if our right to exist with joy outside their narrow standards of beauty is a threat. It scares them. What if I empower others to speak up about harassment? What if I give them permission to love themselves? How dare I exist with joy and confidence while not fitting into their mold? To make them feel worthy and enough just as they are.
What truly disturbs me is sexualisation and hatred. The fact that men are allowed to express these things publicly without consequences. This is why we are still struggling to 'walk the talk' on inclusivity and respect. We are skimming the surface when the issue is rooted in systemic entitlement and dehumanisation.
It reminds me of William Golding's Lord of the Flies- the unchecked chaos, the moral decay. Much like the pubescent boys in that story, some of these men are reckless, cruel, and lacking in self-governance.
That savagery must be addressed, not just for me but for anyone who dares to live, speak, and love in their truth.
Many brands have been creating more choices for plus-sized women, and many are also creating colour cosmetics for brown Asian girls. But we rarely see that representation on the ramp or mainstream campaigns or content. Why is that?
When brands are asked why we don't see plus sized or brown South Asian women in mainstream campaigns or on the ramp, the usual answer is: 'That's not what the average consumer wants.' And to an extent, that is true. With shrinking attention spans and mass consumers being easily influenced by trends, it is hard for brands to take risks or back data that contradicts the current aesthetic ideal.
I have said this before, and I'll say it again: the goal was never to make 'plus-size' a fad. There is space and demand for all kinds of bodies, but brands often treat inclusivity like a checkbox instead of a long-term commitment. Many of us who have been part of these so-called 'inclusive' campaigns want to be seen for who we are and what we do, not just as a symbol of diversity.
Now that the trend of tokenising one person from each marginalised group is fading, we are seeing fewer people who reflect real consumers.
That's not a coincidence; it reflects how shallow the commitment to inclusion really was.
Sobia with her mom, Nasima
How would you define the brown-girl aesthetic? Do you think it is high time we owned it instead of trying to change what we are gifted with?
To me, the beauty of the brown-girl aesthetic lies in its incredible diversity. That is something my mother taught me early on. She always encouraged me to see beauty in every soul I encountered. That shaped how I view the world even today.
All versions of brown-girl beauty are valid and deserve space. But to truly embrace that, we need to decolonise the way we view ourselves because so much of what we are taught to admire comes from colonial standards of beauty that never included us in the first place.
And while we are redefining that aesthetic, we must also acknowledge the role of other genders and queer identities who have shaped our beauty culture. Their contributions are often erased or mocked, and that erasure is a legacy of colonialism too.
Owning the brown-girl aesthetic is not just about embracing how we look, it is about reclaiming the lens through which we see ourselves.
Shoutout to all brown girls out there
* What feels good, looks good. Love yourself.
Every single day, not just when you feel your best.
* Style, beauty, confidence; they all begin with self-respect. Honour your body type, skin tone, and all the versions of yourself, even on the days you don't feel like your ideal version.
* Learn what makes you feel confident, not just what trends say you should wear.
* Wear colours that make your skin glow, cuts that make you stand tall, and most importantly, choose things that make you feel like you.
* Confidence is not something you find in a mirror; it is something you build every time you choose yourself.
We think 'mota-kalo' would be a fab name for a brand of women's wear. What do you think?
Honestly, I think I want to start a brand called 'mota-kalo' now. I am definitely considering this as an option. It sounds so chic to me, unapologetic, memorable, and rooted in reclaiming words that are used to shame. But I would not create 'mota-kalo' just to slap anyone in the face. I would want the success of the brand to be a slap in the slap.
The loudest response to misogyny and patriarchy is to thrive and to do it on your own terms, with style, power, and joy.
Sobia wore her mom's sari
You have many fans in India - and globally of course. Being a role model and a source of inspiration to young brown girls takes a lot of work. How do you keep yourself relevant?
India holds a very special place in my heart. I always say my heart lives in Mumbai and my food palette in Punjab. Honestly, I don't have a formula for staying relevant. Maybe it is the alignment of my planets, who knows? I just live by one principle: I must be true to myself and not lie (or try my best not to)! Everything else comes second.
I think that kind of honesty resonates with people, across all ages, backgrounds and borders.
The love I receive always outweighs the hate. And maybe that is the real secret to staying relevant: not chasing trends, but choosing to show up, with joy, consistency, and truth- no matter who is watching.
How did growing up in Bangladesh and connecting with Bangla culture shape you?
Like many in Bengal, my father was a devoted reader of Tagore but to this day, I do not know anyone who has read more of him than he has. When he was younger, my grandfather made him handwrite ten pages of Tagore every day, so you could say it left a mark. I grew up surrounded by songs from the
Gitabitan
, with early mornings spent being coached in Rabindra Sangeet but failing till date (laughs).
I cannot say I have much talent for singing, but I have always admired the poetry in those lyrics.
Satyajit Ray's films were a staple in our home, especially
Goopy Gyne Bagha Byne
and
Hirak Rajar Deshe
. As I grew older, I began exploring more of his work. What struck me most, beyond the iconic aesthetics, was how authentic and layered his characters were. Ray had a way of telling the hardest stories with simplicity, and that is a level of creative mastery I deeply admire.
One can only hope and dream of expressing themselves so beautifully.
Both Tagore and Ray were far ahead of their time, especially in how they wrote their women. There was always a quiet strength and deep empathy in their portrayal of female characters, and that is something I continue to hold close and aspire to reflect in my own work especially as a Bengali woman.
Sobia's style statement
Always evolving: Her style changes every few weeks or months, depending on inspiration.
Rooted in tradition and art: Draws from cultural heritage and global experiences.
Mixes the old and the new: One day a sari, the next a bold, quirky print.
Believes in balance: Style should
feel
like home before it
looks
like a statement.
Sobia's comfort outfit
Ammu's cotton maxi: Simple, traditional, deeply comforting.
Not about trends: Prioritizes how clothing feels over how it's perceived.
Emphasizes ease: Comfort is key, even if it's not runway-worthy
Pix:
Sheikh Taseen, Purno Das and assisted by Anjoy Kundo
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