I grew up in one of the South West's prettiest market towns – but tourists always overlook it for flashier neighbours

The Sun

30-04-2025

Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter
Published: Invalid Date,
FRESHLY-ROASTED coffee, a vibrant second-hand market and a medieval castle - I can't believe tourists miss this Devonshire gem.
Tucked away in the Devonshire countryside is Totnes, a medieval market town that is full of treasure.
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While most visitors heading to the south county beeline for the coast - and in particular the popular English Riviera - they are missing out on a town full of history and independent businesses to explore.
Sat on the River Dart, the medieval market town of Totnes is located a short drive away from its more popular seaside neighbours of Torquay and Paignton.
But this little town has a lot to boast about.
With a central high street running up a long, gradual hill, Totnes is home to some of my favourite places to escape to, when I leave the capital.
Starting at the bottom of the town, there is a medieval bridge crossing the river directly to the high street.
Pretty pastel boats line the river, next to eateries such as the Riverside Cafe and the Waterside Bistro.
On one side of the river is also an expansive green area, which is ideal for picnics or dog playtime.
Back up on the street and looking up the hill, visitors are greeted with an impressive high street full of misshapen buildings and slate-grey roofs.
It won't take you long to realise why the town was formerly dubbed 'the independent capital of the UK,' as both sides of the street are lined with independent shops, bakeries and sellers.
From organic green grocers to a crystal shop, there is something for everyone.
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One shop, Stag + Seer, sells different kinds of incense and skin care products that "inspire healing and wellbeing in this fast paced modern world and encourage the 'Ceremony of Healing' in our day to day lives."
And at Leftfield, a Neal's Yard Remedies heritage partner, there are health and wellbeing products inspired by the countryside and coast.
A final shop favourite of mine is Penelopetom - a go-to for grabbing special gifts, lifestyle items or even a souvenir.
Up and down the highstreet are also a number of independent bookshops, vintage and charity shops full of hidden treasures.
Key to town's history, is a Norman motte-and-bailey castle which looks over the River Dart.
Visitors can learn about the history of the market town as well as enjoy panoramic views across the valley.
The famous market runs on Fridays and Saturdays and comes alive with stalls with one-of-a-kind finds - like the phrenology head, vintage maps and faux fur coasts I have accumulated over my visits.
Part of the market also features food stalls - be sure to check out the brownie stall and the Lebanese stall for a giant flatbread stuffed with salad items, hummus and meat or falafel.
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Talking of food and drink, just a bit further up from the market and around the corner is The Hairy Barista.
With a brightly painted orange front, this coffee joint is hard to miss.
This pretty and cosy coffee shop chooses a different speciality roastery.
It is also great for vegans — which is a big thing in Totnes — as all the food at The Hairy Barista is plant-based, and uses mostly organic, seasonal, local, fresh and unprocessed ingredients.
Whilst it doesn't look like much from the outside, back on the main highstreet the Anne of Cleves tea room serves up delicious freshly baked cakes and of course, scones.
Nearby is also Roly's Fudge - which whilst now boasts 47 branches across the country - all started in a thatched cottage in Devon.
The family recipe which was passed down the generations, celebrates the making of fudge, with a variety of flavours and no oils or additives.
Also in Devon, is the ultimate staycation destination with two beach-fringed coasts, stargazing parks and picturesque seaside villages.
Plus, how to have a cheap holiday in Devon this summer.
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