The Menu: Déise delights as Waterford's food reputation goes from a whisper to a roar

Irish Examiner

15 hours ago

Every time I return from Waterford, it is always with a sense of bafflement at how it is rarely mentioned when doling out plaudits in the Irish food world.
But after my most recent 'fat-finding' mission to Déise country, I am convinced all is about to change, that a hodge podge of disparate edible elements is set to unify, turning Waterford into one of Ireland's premier food tourism destinations.
I have always been allergic to parochial inter-county braggadocio — after all, counties are an entirely artificial colonial construction — but it hasn't helped that Waterford exists in the long shadow of its Western 'neighbour', Cork, the 'food county' of Ireland.
However, this has conversely allowed Waterford space to patiently and sustainably assemble a genuinely compelling food and hospitality offering.
As in Cork, county leads city on this front: remember, Waterford is just one of 11 'Michelin starred' Irish counties; The Cliff House Hotel, in Ardmore, holding a star since 2010.
But the game changer has been the Greenway, between Waterford city and Dungarvan, transforming the tourism offering and in turn encouraging outbreaks of epicurean entrepreneurialism all along its route.
Paul and Máire Flynn, of The Tannery, are Waterford food heroes, contributing immeasurably to the transformation of Dungarvan into one of Ireland's most popular tourist destinations ever before the Greenway arrived, but its opening has only compounded the seaside town's success, and Eunice Power (And Chips) is another great champion, now helming the ever-popular Waterford Festival of Food.
Restaurants continue to open in the town and newly opened boutique hotel The Hatmaker is another welcome alleviation to Dungarvan's shortage of hospitality beds.
Even the formerly sleepy village of Kilmacthomas' revitalisation owes much to the new influx of tourists, Eamo and Ró Café and Larder a good example.
Further along the Greenway is the beautiful Mount Congreve and gorgeous gardens, where former Grow HQ chef JB Dubois is now delivering a superb produce-led seasonal menu in the café/restaurant.
Tramore may not be on the route, but it is on the Copper Coast, still an undiscovered treasure for too many in this country.
When Sarah Richards, one of Ireland's foremost real bread bakers, and partner Conor Naughton opened Seagull Bakery, it was the first stirring of a new-found food culture in a once mighty seaside holiday spot fading into obscurity.
That rebirth has been copper-fastened by the subsequent opening of Beach House, one of my favourite restaurants in the country, where Jumoke Akintola delivers deliciously simple yet simply delicious seafood-driven fare and her husband, Peter Hogan, leads front of house and curates a cracking wine list. (The couple also own/operate Dublin's equally fabulous Fish Shop and Bar Pez.)
As the child of an especially 'devout' father with a particular grá for the Cistercians, I discovered the bucolic beauty of West Waterford through regular visits to Glencairn Abbey and Mount Melleray Monastery.
Though my own vocation remained forever elusive and foundered for good on the rocks of my adult agnosticism, I have always found Cappoquin, Lismore and its hinterland especially bewitching, in particular, along the Blackwater, more redolent of the Rhine than rural Ireland.
Lismore itself is stunning, Farmgate Lismore a wonderful new addition. Though less familiar with the east of the county, I love Dunmore East in the summer for the classic Irish seaside experience, with East Pier furnishing a quintessential fish and chips offering.
If I were looking to invest, it would be in Waterford city. It has real history in spades as Ireland's oldest city and first Viking settlement, and an equally strong food history.
It also has untold development potential, with ambitious plans for the wide and handsome port area, which would be a huge fillip for the city were ambition to be transmuted into achievement.
That is the kind of boost, in incomes and population necessary to support a truly thriving hospitality sector in what was traditionally a blue-collar town, according to an old culinary comrade who grew up there.
Meanwhile, I'll more than make do with some of the very best pubs in the country, while dining well in Everett's, Union Wine Bar & Kitchen, and Mara.
Finally, a special shout out to one of Ireland's finest food emporia, Ardkeen Stores, a sublime showcase for the county's superb produce and a prime example of the sustainable supermarket in action.
Yep, The Day of the Déise is imminent, if not, this year, on the hurling field, then very much so on the plate.
ELSEWHERE...
Common Knowledge, at the edge of the Burren, launches Land & Lore, a seasonal series of immersive dining experiences celebrating the region's food, farming, and cultural traditions.
It kicks off with Farm to Fork Feast (June 27) assembling regenerative farmers, local producers, chefs, and guests to dine together, share knowledge, and connect through Irish food traditions, with three pricing tiers: reduced; standard; and pay-it-forward, to subsidise other less well off but deserving guests.
The very lovely Dunmore House is one of Ireland's finest boutique seaside hotels, its glorious Sea Terrace gazing out over Dunmanus Bay, chief amongst its charms, and the seasonal re-opening of its Boatshed Pizza only adds to its ongoing allure, where Paolo Chiappa knocks out some of the finest pizzas in the county.
Open 1pm-7pm, Thurs to Mon, dunmorehousehotel.ie
Cork Rooftop Farm hosts Jean-Martin Fortier, internationally acclaimed market gardener and author of the influential The Market Gardener, for a very special weekend (June 28-29) of immersive workshops, farm tours and discussion all focused on regenerative agriculture, innovative farming practices, and sustainable local food systems, taking place at their 60-acre organic farm in Glenbrook, Co Cork and open to all, from newbies to seasoned pros.
Early booking recommended. corkrooftopfarm.ie
TODAY'S SPECIAL
"...multi-award-winning Hotchup, a divine tomato ketchup, with real depth to its fruit-forward flavour..."
As I age, the extreme sport of chilli chugging becomes ever more fraught so I treat the fierier elements of the fine Mic's Chilli sauce range with respectful temperance, including as it does, some scorchers but all freighted with properly balanced flavours.
A special standout was multi-award-winning Hotchup, a divine tomato ketchup, with real depth to its fruit-forward flavour and a comparatively mild level of chilli heat compared to some of the nuclear offerings from the highest end of the Scoville scale.
Last night, an already stunning homemade Cashel Blue cheeseburger became veritable god-food with a healthy dollop of Hotchup.
Widely available, RRP €6.95, micschilli.com
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