Sardinian Wines - Sculpted By Wind, Salt, Soil And Scrub

Forbes

5 days ago

Castelsardo and fortress, Sassari province, Sardinia, italy
Northwest
Three years ago I vacationed in Italy on the island of Sardinia for a week, tasted wines and wrote articles about the north and central/southern regions. I recently returned to focus on signature regional wines. The quality endures, and wines made from lesser known indigenous Sardinian grapes can be excellent.
During that first trip, I phoned a winery in the north at random and within hours sat with Mario Bagella tasting a lineup of his vintages. Since then Mario has become president of Vignaioli Nord Ovest Sardegna (Winemakers of Northwest Sardinia), or VINOS—an association with 13 independent producers. Their motto translates to 'territory, traditions, resilience.'
Sardinia's northern terrain once generated bulk quantities of Malvasia and Moscato grapes that were sold to a large cooperative. Beginning in the 1970's and 1980's the European Community (precursor to the European Union) implemented a program that paid producers to reduce Sardinia's vine crops by more than half.
Alghero, Sardinia, Italy
Wind, Salt, Soil and Scrub
Mario described conditions that impact grapes in Sardinia, which grow predominantly on the western side of the island.
'We are always blessed by the mistral breeze,' he said.
Another local winemaker, Antonio Cargiaghe, agreed. 'I plant here because the mistral wind helps with the humidity,' he said.
The mistral wind blows from the northwest, predominantly during spring and sometimes in summer. It cools temperatures and dries grapes, reducing potential for disease.
Mario then mentioned a second island characteristic that impacts wine.
'When the mistral is strong, huge clouds from the sea completely cover the grapes in salt,' he continued.
While wind improves grape health, salinity can impact the flavor of wines.
A third factor influencing wines is soil type—including local Dolomitic limestone, sandstone, clay, schist and basalt.
Winemaker and President of VINOS Mario Bagella at his vineyard in Romangia, northwest Sardinia
A fourth factor is vegetation.
Much of Sardinia is coated in vegetal scrub known as maquis, a Mediterranean ecosystem which perfumes the island. This includes shrubs, trees and evergreens—including oak, juniper and strawberry trees as well as rosemary, myrtle, wild fennel and euphorbia. It also includes elicriso, a plant known as the 'scent of Sardinia' with aromas of curry, salt and vanilla.
To better understand the vagaries of how wind, salt, soil and scrub can influence grapes, we drove to three viticultural subzones in the northwest known as Nurra, Coros and Romangia. Each produces wines classified as IGT, or indicazione geografica tipica, which reflect broad characteristics of the region.
Nurra is on a promontory west of Sassari city and includes the coastal city of Alghero. Vineyards generally curl around the base of Mount Doglia, which commands a vista of Alghero's harbor. This is wide open and windswept terrain dotted by olive groves, poppies, stone farmhouses, eucalyptus trees, yellow flowers of the ginestra plant and wind rocked white tops of wild carrots. Nurra is the largest, plainest and driest of these three subzones and is underlain by dolomitic limestone and schist as well as clay sandy soils laden with quartz.
We inadvertently found winemaker Paolo Delitala bicycling through an olive grove en route to his vines. Paolo quit his work as a lawyer to create his Ledà label, which includes a stunning red Cagnulari with Burgundian aromas.
Winemaker Paolo Delitala of Ledá wines in northwest Sardinia, Italy
We soon learned that soils here resemble those of Provence in France because these lands were joined geologically before drifting apart. The pH of soils is generally high, making them basic and conducive to growing olives and grapes—including the predominant white Vermentino, as well as red Cannonau (Grenache) and Cagnulari.
To the east of Nurra sits a landlocked, rainier subregion known as Coros—comprised predominantly of limestone soils as well as basaltic pebbles and clay, and laden with wild arugula and wild fennel plants. We visited vineyards of Giuseppe Pocobelli as well as those of Antonietta Careddu of Carpante winery. Both produce complex and delicious wines made from the Cagnulari grape, which thrives in local conditions.
We then drove to Romangia, smallest of these subregions, which faces the northern coastline. This was the first territory colonized by Romans on the island, hence its name. It includes lush verdant cliffs, canyons and vistas of the deep blue Mediterranean Sea, the Azinara Islands and the French island of Corsica. Soils near the coast are sandy while those closer to the hills include more limestone.
We drove up a heinously steep, narrow and rocky road hemmed in by bamboo and resembling a segment of southeast Asia. We parked at the highest vineyard in Romangia, where wild boar frequently cause havoc in vineyards. This belongs to Sorres winery, where owners Pier Franco and his wife Laura and daughter Chiara greeted us.
Pier Franco Sorres, with wife Laura and daughter Chiara at their high elevation vines in Romangia, northwest Sardinia
Here, temperature swings between day and night—diurnal variation—can be wide, favoring the evolution of acidity in grapes during cool nights. Despite the partial rain shadow caused by the Limbara massif to the northeast, this land still receives frequent rains (which pummeled us during our visit), and the highlands are greener than lands below.
In summary, northwestern Sardinia is a variable but fertile landscape raked by rainstorms and windstorms. Vermentino white wines can include an acidic edge and often complex and rich tropical flavors. Red wines created from versatile Cannonau grapes can meld complexity and depth with fresh and to easy drink acidity—making them ideal for pairing with food.
'Cannonau, you can do anything with that grape,' Mario confirmed.
An intriguing surprise in this region was a little known grape known as Cagnulari. Custers include small berries that thrive on clay. Less than 1,000 acres (300 hectares) of this Sardinian indigenous grape exist in the world, producing a welcome surprise—wines with dark, rich and layered flavors that could skyrocket in popularity. In the past this juice was blended with Cannonau to add color to blends, but during the past decade 100% Cagnulari wine has been successfully sold, with acidity that pairs well with fish or fish soup.
Gian Piero Sacu, winemaker of Podere 45 as well as Vice President of Vinos, northwest Sardinia
Another rare indigenous grape from northwestern Sardinia is Arvisionadu—with clusters that include big and small berries. Only 85 acres (35 hectares) of these vines exist, and their ability to conserve acidity allows the wine to age well. As a flavor comparison—think Vermentino meets Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadet, with aromas of myrtle and slight menthol on the finish.
These wines pair well with rich Sardinian cuisine, including pane moddine knotted bread, carasau wafer bread, lumaca snails (cooked with oil, garlic, parsley and hot peppers), stingray in a tomato and aigliata sauce (olive oil, garlic and vinegar), smoked pecorino cheese, twirled andarinos pasta, and tiricche circular cookies stuffed with jam. And, always, with seafood.
Central Sardinia
We next drove south.
The town of Mamoiada in central Sardinia is within a 'blue zone,' where many residents live unusually long. The town sits at about 2,100 feet (640 meters) above sea level, includes some 2,500 residents and is known for an annual carnival on January 17th, when men dress in dark masks and elaborate black sheepskin coats fastened to dozens of clanking cowbells (intended to ward off evil). As they jangle in procession through the city, some try to lasso women as a tribute to fertility rites.
Mamoiada can appear both insular and hospitable, a land that sometimes forgets time. If you are told lunch begins in two minutes, arrive twenty minutes later; a promised 9:30 a.m. meeting may begin at 10:45 a.m. Agendas can be futile and patience is essential; yet frustrations dissolve at the taste of cucina tipica traditional food such as roast suckling pig followed by a seada dessert—a gigantic cheese stuffed ravioli with honey slathered on top. This pliable attitude toward time can provide a welcome change in life.
Mamoiada is a hub for producing scant wines from the rare white grape Granatza, as well as voluptuously rich versions of red wine from Cannonau. The region has 33 wine producers and generates nearly a half million bottles of per year. (Mamoiada is the name of the town; Mamojà is the name of the wine association.)
Granatza white wine first hit the international market in 2008. Today, much of it is scooped up by U.S. restaurants. It includes firm acidity and aromas of bright green apples as well, at times, of butterscotch. Think Chenin Blanc meets Timorasso.
Cannonau wines from Mamoiada can range widely in flavors—some oaked and others not—with aromas as soft as a Beaujolais cru from Fleurie, or as jammy as a hefty Zinfandel from northern California. They are generally rich and complex with bright acidity.
Producers also generate tank wines, sold in bulk for less than four U.S. dollars per liter. Some juice is aged in chestnut wood, some aged in oak and some in both. The quality is decent and the value is sound.
Too soon, it was time for us to depart to the south. Before leaving, we stopped at another vineyard that provided a visual parting shot of the region.
Carnival of Masks in Mamoiada, central Sardinia, Italy
Outside of Mamoiada we drove past wild fennel and fig trees along a mucky single lane track to an old stone farmhouse on a sodden highlands. There was a pungent scent of wild mint and myrtle. We entered a room with red tile floors and tables hewn from locally felled planks and sat before a crackling wood burning fire. A local winemaker greeted us. Surrounded by scents, budding vineyards, bird song and hospitality, we cherished this moment—which embodied the rich, semi-hidden and deep roots of where many custom crafted Sardinian wines are produced.
[A companion article on the south of Sardinia, titled A Feast Of Wine, Food And Tranquility On Sardinia's Sant'Antioco Island is here.]
Tastings in Northwest Sardinia
Cantina Cargiaghe. Zirra. Vermentino di Sardegna. 2023. 92+ points.
100% Vermentino from the Nurra region of northwestern Sardinia. Aromas of white pears and dried oranges and slight caramel. A dry and angular wine with flavors of apples and pears. Complex and rich with a pleasant oily mouth feel. Heft, stature and body mid palate. Brisk acidity and minerality. Shades of a rancio slightly oxidized wine with caramel and pears on the finish.
Podere 45. Alghero Bianco Vermentiono. 2023. 93-94 points.
From the Nurra subregion in the northwest of Sardinia. Brisk aromas include a perfume of myrtle and light green apples. Rich, luscious, gorgeous mouth feel and mid palate flavors of white pears with slight menthol on the finish.
Ledá. Alghero Cagnulari Riserva. 2021. 94 points.
Made from the Cagnulari grape from the Nurra subregion in the northwest. A complex, hefty and rich set of almost Burgundian aromas that include molasses, raspberries, cinnamon, nutmeg, spice rack and red cherries. A hefty but silky set of tannins in an elegant mid palate that includes rich red fruit, anise, black licorice and salinity as well as elicriso—a Sardinian flowering plant known as the 'scent of Sardinia' with aromas of curry and vanilla.
Carpante. Cagnulari. IGT Isola dei Nuraghi. 2023. 91-92 points.
From the Coros subregion of the northwest. A blast of raspberry, red plums, acorns, licorice and fig aromas. Light and fresh with crisp acidity and mid palate flavors that include raspberries, red plums and some chocolate chips. Soft tannins. Pair with tagliatelle and truffles.
Giuseppe Pocobelli. Tadija Cagnulari. IGT Isola dei Nuraghi. 2023. 93 points.
From the Coros subregion of northwestern Sardinia. Aromas of violets and wild fennel, earth and orange peels. Rich flavors of maple syrup, golden syrup, red cherries and devil's chocolate cake in this 17% alcohol late harvest wine.
'Pane moddine' knotted bread, northwest Sardinia, Italy
De Ruiu Bianco. 2023. 92+ points.
50/25/25 blend of Vermentino, Cannonau and Pascale grapes from 40 year old vines grown in the Romangia sub-region of northwest Sardinia. Perfumed with white flowers, white pears, green apples, salinity and nutmeg. Crisp and focused flavors of yellow pears and slight honey. Bright acidity in this wine with a slightly oxidized set of rancio orange flavors. Buttery and lacquered mouth feel. Rich and delicious.
Agreste. Fraigu. 2021. 92-93 points.
A blend of Vermentino, Moscato and Girò Bianco from the Romangia sub region of northwestern Sardinia. A skin contact wine colored orange/amber with aromas of candied oranges and nutmeg. Dry and firm tannins and tastes that include pear tart, some green apples, mandarins, as well as salinity. Quiet acidity with nutmeg and red cherries on the finish.
Cantina Mario Bagella. 1Sorso. Cannonau di Sardegna. 2024. 93-94 points.
From the Romangia sub region. Light set of soft aromas of smoke, sultanas, red cherries and black currants in this Cannonau made using cement tanks. Rich and light tannins; brisk acidity. Balanced and harmonious and easy to drink; pair with sesame soy chicken.
Cantina Sorres. Pensamentu. Cannonau di Sardegna. 2023. 92-93 points.
This 16% alcohol wine from grapes grown at 1,000 feet (300 meters) elevation includes aromas of elicriso, herbs of Provence and raspberries. Dark, syrupy, hefty and textured mid palate with a firm tannic backbone and long creamy finish that includes flavors of blackberries and red cherries.
Viticoltori A3. Irru. Cannonau di Sardegna. 2023. 92+ points.
From Cannonau grapes grown over clay limestone soils in the Romangia sub-region of northwestern Sardinia. Includes aromas of young red fruit that includes red plums. Rich and syrupy set of flavors that include strawberries, blackberries, some black pepper and black licorice.
Terre di Baquara. Cannonau di Sardegna. 2022. 94 points.
This Cannonau includes aromas of smoke, earth, molasses and scrub. A rich, robust and hearty wine with the minestrone tilt of a Sangiovese, the red cherries of a right bank Bordeaux Merlot and the heft of a Malbec. Elegant tannins, soft mid palate bursting with dark fruit. A gastronomic wine that is complex, robust, rich and generous; acidity, fruit and tannins in balance. An ambassador to the northwest.
Agricola Leo Conti. Madrau. Cannonau di Sardegna. 2021. 93-94 points.
From the Romangia sub-region of northwest Sardinia. Chirpy but complex aromas that include slight petrol as well as wild fennel, red and black cherries. Aged one year in used barrels. A lusciously soft and elegant beauty with rich and elegant tannins and a molten river of red fruit across the tongue.
'Lumaca' snails cooked with olive oil, garlic, parsely and hot peppers in northwest Sardinia, Italy
Vini Tramonti. Cagnulari. IGT Isola dei Nuraghi. 94+ points.
From the Romangia sub region, this 15.5% alcohol Cagnulari includes a dark and rich set of Sangiovese minestrone aromas, as well as ripe red cherries, sultanas and raspberries. A statured and rich wine that includes flavors of black currant juice, black licorice and ripe raspberry flavors dripping with bright acidity. This is akin to a dessert wine.
Jeda. Sal Macerato. Vermentino di Sardegna. DOC. 2024. 90-91 points.
This orange wine is slightly pear colored. 13% alcohol. Light, racy, crisp and tart.
Agricola Leo Conti. Pittuleri. IGT Isola dei Nuraghi. 91-92 points.
Gentle but still hefty aromas and a mid palate with silky bright acidity. Rich flavors of red fruit. 14.5% alcohol.
Azienda Agricola Leonardo Bagella. 1Sorso. Cannonau. 2015. 95 points.
Brick colored with aromas of earth, apricots, prunes, smoke, charcoal and black licorice, as well as tar and strudel. A complex taste mosaic—a dark slab of hefty secrets with suave tannins, subtle and slick acidity and magical flavors of morels, butterscotch, provence herbs, oranges and a fiery finish that incudes lava cake and dorp licorice.
Tastings from Mamoiada in Central Sardinia - White Wines
Cantina 'Esole. Sa Panada. Ghirada Garanuele Sa Panada. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 90 points.
12.5% alcohol wine made from the Granatza grape and aged for six months in large French oak casks. Pungent aromas of green grass and myrtle. Bright and luscious mid palate with fine acidic tension. 2,340 bottles produced.
Antonio Mele. Cuculia. IGT Bargania Bianco. 2024. 91-92 points.
12.5% alcohol wine made from the white Granatza grape. Aged eight months in large barrels. Green yellow color and aromas of candy cane and limes. Succulent oily mouth feel, green tropical flavors and fine acidic tension. 3000 bottles produced.
Cantina Vike Vike. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 90-91 points.
Made from the Granatza grape and aged in French large oak barrels for six months, this 12.5% alcohol wine has a quiet first nose, followed by greenery and tropicals. Sparky acidity and well balanced. 3,000 bottles produced.
Simone Sedilesu with Vike Vike wine in Mamoiada, Central Sardinia, Italy
Cantina Montisci Vitzizzai. Ghirada Cara Mala. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 91+ points.
Granatza with 12.5% alcohol and aged in steel for six months. Aromas are citric and honeyed and include lime and butterscotch. Racy and fresh acidity, creamy finish, layered tropicals. 1,000 bottles produced.
Cantina Mertzeoro. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 90+ points.
Aged six months in steel. Acidic first nose, with a linear though balanced set of flavors that include myrtle and tropicals. 3,500 bottles produced.
Cantina Mussennore. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 91+ points.
Honey hued juice with semi-complex aromas of green apples and tangerines. Flavors include limes, nectarines and oatmeal with bright acidity. Pair with scallops or ceviche. 800 bottles produced.
Vinzas Artas. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 90-91 points.
Aromas of candy cane and marshmallows. Slight eucalyptus tilt in this semi-complex wine with a supple mouth feel.
Gian Piero Tramaloni Gian Piero. Arrazza e Granazza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 92+ points.
Aromas of yellow apples followed by a complex and delicious juice with tight acidity and flavors that include green apples and slight toffee and honey. Well integrated components in this wine that produces an oily mouth feel. 300 bottles produced.
Cantina Giuseppe Sedilesu. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 92 points.
Aged six months in steel and two months in large oak barrels. Rich and complex wine with aromas of honey, cashews, myrtle and lime. Lacquered mouth feel with tightly bundled flavors that include green and yellow apples and slight pomegranate. Racy acidity.
Societa Agricola Francesco Cadinu. Matttio. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 91-92 points.
Aged six months in amphorae and six months in bottles, this 12.5% alcohol wine is the color of honey and lime. Rich and complex aromas of green apples and salt water taffy. Flavors, although less seductive than aromas, include yellow apples.
Highlands northeast of Mamoiada in central Sardinia, Italy
Bobotti. Granatza. IGT Barbagia Bianco. 2024. 91-92 points.
Color of apple sauce. Hefty aromas of petrol and green apples. Think Chenin Blanc meets dry Riesling. Light and crisp and well integrated acidity; firm flavors include apples and tropicals.
Tastings from Mamoiada in Central Sardinia - Rosé Wines
Cantina Ladu. Malu a Ghirare Rosato. IGT Barbagia Rosato. 2024. 91-92 points.
Color of a Provence rosé. Bright, cheery, generous light fruit aromas. Well balanced and delicious acidity that calls for another glass. Flavors include yellow apples and red cherries. A barbecue wine, but better.
Cantina Crispani. Rosato Visera. IGT Barbagia Rosato. 2024. 91-92 points.
Aged in steel, this 13.5% alcohol rosé made from the Cannonau grape has a medium pink color and juicy and generous aromas of red raspberries. Flavors of short bread and cherry tart. Firm structure, bright acidity, well balanced. 1,300 bottles produced.
Tastings from Mamoiada in Central Sardinia - Red Wines
Cantina Melis. Don Zua. DOC Cannonau di Sardegna. 2021. 92-93 points.
Aged six months in large wooden casks, six months in steel and 12 months in bottle, this 14.5% alcohol Cannonau wine include aromas of earth, red cherries, elicriso—followed by generous flavors of wild fennel and red plums. Gorgeously sleek tannins mid palate in this creamy wine with bright acidity. Pair with meat loaf.
Winemaker Mariano Sanna of Cantina Melis, Mamoiada, central Sardinia, Italy
Cantina Montisci Vitzizzai. Ghirada Foddigheddu. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2021. 92-93 points.
This 16% alcohol wine ages 12 months in large French oak casks. Includes aromas of raspberries, florals and some greenery. Distinctly focused dark flavors of red cherries and slight chocolate.
Cantina 'Esole. Ghirada Garaunele A. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2022. 91-92 points.
Aged in French oak barrels for 10 months. 13.5% alcohol. Aromas of nettles and hedgerow, meat loaf and tar. Jammy red Zinfandel like mid palate with flavors that are supple and light, with bright acidity and easy drinking. Well structured tannins. 4,100 bottles produced.
Giuseppe Sedilesu. Ghirada Zi'Spanu. DOC Cannonau di Sardegna. 2022. 92 points.
This 14% alcohol Cannonau wine includes bright light red fruit aromas, fresh flavors of red fruit and zippy acidity. Aged 10 months in large French oak casks and six months in steel. 1,200 bottles produced.
Cantina Mulargiu. Ghirada Malarthana. DOC Cannonau di Sardegna. 2022. 91-92 points.
Aromas of lava cake and flavors of black cherries and cherry jam in this easy drinking, well balanced wine with tight, radiant acidity from winemaker Francesco Mulargiu. Aged 12 months in cement and two years in bottle and including 14% alcohol. 4,000 bottles produced. This is classic Cannonau from the region, hence affectionately referred to by locals as 'Châteauneuf-de-Cannonau.'
Cantina Crisponi. Ghirada Elisi. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2023. 92-93 points.
Aged in large wooden barrels, this 15% Cannonau wine is a dark purple color and includes balanced aromas of dark fruit and some gorse. Chewy mid palate flavors of cherry jam, with slight texture mid palate and firm though largely hidden tannins. A wine for food.
Winemaker Federica Dessolis of 'Esole wines in Mamoiada, central Sardinia, Italy
Vinzas Artas. Ghirada Garaunele 1920. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2022. 91-92 points.
Aromas of black cherries, black berries and elicriso. Chunky, chewy, satisfying mid palate of red plum flavors with firm tannins. Think Sangiovese meets Merlot.
Vignaioli Cadinu. Martis Sero. DOC Cannonau di Sardegna. 2022. 93+ points.
This Cannonau ages 24 months in large wooden barrels and includes 15.5% alcohol. Aromas of red cherries, strawberry jam. Mid palate flavors of cherries and plums in this hearty, balanced wonder with swashbuckling acidity and generous flavors.
Cantina Muggittu Boeli. Ghirada sa Lahana. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2023. 93 points.
Aged in oak barrels, this 15% alcohol Cannonau wine includes aromas of soot, gunpowder, tobacco and minestrone. A balanced, rounded, full bodied red wine with hearty flavors of shortbread, wild fennel and black licorice. Quiet tannins.
WInemaker Mattia Muggittu of Cantina Muggittu Boeli in Mamoiada, Central Sardinia, Italy
Cantina Vike Vike. Ghirada Fittiloghe. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2022. 92+ points.
Slight aromas of green peppers, wet bark, red cherries, black pepper and minestrone. Supple tannins in this light, fresh, juicy, balanced and somewhat delicate Cannonau with 13% alcohol. This more modern interpretation of Cannonau is referred to locally as 'Cannonau Noir.'
Francesco Cadinu. Ghirada Fittiloghe. DOC Cannonau di Sardegna. 2022. 93 points.
Aromas of earth, gorse, tar, tobacco and violets. Delicate flavors in this light, ethereal, generous 100% Cannonau that ages in large barrels for 12 months. 14.5% alcohol. 1,000 bottles produced.
Antonio Mele. Cannonau. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2023. 91-92 points.
Aged one year in large wooden barrels followed by one year in bottles, this 14.5% alcohol Cannonau includes aromas of earth, gorse and spearmint. Light and delicate tannins and full red fruit flavors. 3,500 bottles produced.
Andrea Cosseddu. Ghirada Su Hastru è Su Horvu. DOC Cannonau. 2022. 93+ points.
This 14.5% alcohol wine aged in second pass large French oak barrels followed by 11 months in bottles. Aromas of black pepper and gorse and semi spicy flavors of black cherries, elicriso and red plums. Supple tannins. 1,300 bottles produced.
Teularju. Ghirada Cara'Gonare. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2022. 93+ points.
Aged one year in oak. This 13% alcohol wine includes aromas of maquis scrub and slight petrol. Light, fresh flavors that include raspberries in this wine with bright acidity. This is the Fleurie of Mammoiada. 2,600 bottles produced.
Elisabetta and Giovanni Sedilesu with Teularju wine, Mamoiada, central Sardinia, Italy
Cantina Mussennore. Girada Palagorrai. DOC Cannonau di Sardegna. 2022. 93+ points.
Hefty aromas include tobacco, sage, tarragon, tar and eucalyptus—resemblance to a northern Rhone Syrah in this 14.5% alcohol Cannonau wine. Complex and rich wine with slight rancio style oxidation but bursting with black fruits and black pepper. Firm tannins and sleek acidity. 2,500 bottles produced.
Mertzeoro. Ghirada Baduorane. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2023. 94 points.
Aged 12 months in large wooden barrels and six months in bottles, this 14.5% alcohol Cannonau includes a hearty brew of aromas—maquis scrub, lavender, red cherries, raspberries and slight cappuccino. A succinct, focused, coherent ray of dark fruit. Beautiful wine.
Osvaldo Soddu. Brulleri. DOC Cannonau di Sardegna. 2021. 93-94 points.
Slight aromas of gorse and hedgerow in this 15.5% alcohol Cannonau wine that ages in 500 liter tonneau for a year. Mid palate hearty flavors include blueberries, black currants, red plus, cherries, some sage and black pepper. Well integrated acidity and tannins.
Winemaker Osvaldo Soddu of Brulleri in Mamoiada, Central Sardinia
Tramaloni Gian Piero. Berei. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2024. 91-92 points.
This 15% alcohol Cannonau wine ages in steel. Light Beaujolais Cru Fleurie type aromas—florals, red plums, raspberries—as well as some eucalyptus and sage. Mid palate flavors are subtle, light and delicate and slightly layered and include raspberry jam.
Cantina Siotto. Tzappu. IGT Barbagia Rosso. 2023. 91-92 points.
This 15% alcohol wine ages 12 months in large wooden barrels and seven months in bottles. Complex aromas include maple syrup, raspberry tart, black pepper, dorp licorice, tarragon and rosemary. Flavors are complex and rich and include sultanas and shortbread. Acidity includes a streak of lemon meringue.
Cantina Sannas. Bobotti Classico. Cannonan DOC Classico. 2021. 93 points.
This 17.5% alcohol sweet wine is the color of brandy and includes aromas of Amarone, rum raisin and Monbazillac. The layers of flavor include a rainbow of subtle flavors, such as orange tea, cloves, ginger and peat. Layered and complex.