Delhiwale: On eating place-names

Hindustan Times

5 days ago

Certain street dishes in Gurugram are embedded with place-names. Sometimes, the name of such a dish conveys the origins of its vendor. Sometimes, the dish simply happens to be associated with a particular place. Sample a few.
Via Rajasthan
Via Ujjain
Many people head to Gurugram's Jama Masjid Udayan in Sadar Bazar for the tasty biscuits piled up on a couple of carts there, just beside the aforementioned park. The biscuits arrive regularly from Kanha Food Bakery in Ujjain, the MP town famous for the great Shiv temple. Actually, many street traders in the city deal with these 'Ujjain biscuits.' According to one hawker, the link to that holy town was initiated years ago by an unnamed biscuit contractor, who first started to sell boxes of these biscuits sourced from the said bakery. That nameless trader has long left the business, but today, many wholesalers have been sourcing those biscuits from the MP town.
Via Moradabad
This unnamed stall near Gurugram's Rajiv Chowk serves a biryani that takes its name from a UP city. Afzal's Moradabad Biryani lies in a giant metallic cauldron. As per him, this version of biryani ideally contains chicken and mutton, but most eateries add only chicken. Indeed, peering inside his cauldron reveals rice encrusted with chicken pieces, and with dozens of whole green chilies.
Via Modinagar
Modinagar town is in western UP. One cart that hawked Modinagar Ki Danedar Shikanji used to stand opposite Apna Bazar. It might be supposed that such a drink gains its 'danedar' texture from some danedar garnisher, like the deep-fried boondi bullets. But the vendor Rajat there (these days he just serves plain shikanji) claims that the danedar texture originates from the inclusion of maheen (crushed) ice.
Via Civil Lines
Technically speaking, this shack is named Civil Line Wale because it is located on Gurugram's Civil Lines Road, see photo. Its famous chhole bhature has nothing to do with Civil Lines. But this dish here is the acknowledged favourite of a star cricketer, who is currently the season's darling. Over to Virat Kohli!