Discover the culinary heritage of Odisha and Southeast Asia at Jaatra, Taj Puri

The Hindu

02-05-2025

Stepping inside Jaatra, the specialty restaurant of the newly-inaugurated Taj Puri Resort and Spa, feels like being transported into a beautifully-crafted time capsule. One that narrates the story of Odisha's culinary heritage while paying homage to its Southeast Asian connections.
Located at the beachside Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Odisha's temple town of Puri, Jaatra celebrates not just food, but a fascinating piece of history: the ancient maritime voyages of the Kalinga dynasty that once connected Odisha to distant shores of Southeast Asia. Overlooking the Bay of Bengal, the resort is a blend of heritage and indulgence, with one of its most treasured features being the wheel of the Jagannath Puri Yatra, acquired through an auction after the grand annual chariot festival. The resort's architecture draws inspiration from the Kalinga style, with interiors fashioned from traditional Khondalite and laterite stone. Layered with Odisha's artistic heritage, the space is adorned with intricate Pattachitra motifs, Ikat weaves and earthy terracotta accents.
Fusion of flavours
As I settle into my seat at Jaatra, I am drawn to the decor which is a fusion of traditional and the contemporary. Above me, the is ceiling adorned with circular fishing baskets, the kind still used by local fishermen in the backwaters. An entire wall depicts intricate maps of historical voyages, tracing the ancient paths that once linked Odisha with Bali, Sri Lanka, and beyond, nearly 2,000 years ago during the famed Bali Jatra.
Curated by Roopali Mohanti, whose vision brought the Taj group to Puri, and chef Sabyasachi Gorai, her partner-in-culinary-exploration since their Institute of Hotel Management Kolkata days, Jaatra's menu is a symphony of stories.
I begin my culinary journey with the steamed manda pitha dumpling. Unlike the traditional sweet version filled with coconut and jaggery, here, executive chef Biswarup Chatterjee has given it a savoury twist of soya-based meat, lemongrass and kaffir lime. The texture is soft, while the lemony undertone adds a brightness to the bite.
Next comes the Ayam Goreng, an Indonesian-Malaysian fried chicken dish, reimagined to give an interesting taste. It is served crusted in flattened rice, alongside a bean paste dip. The presentation is a visual tribute to the palm trees that dot Odisha's coastline, making it almost too beautiful to eat. Then arrives the chicken patra poda. Served wrapped in sal leaf, the wood-fired chicken is seasoned with a delectable masala mix, each bite balanced with a side of cool cucumber and sweet potato mash.
Black and white chicken dumplings follow. These are curried chicken dumplings that hit the perfect note between Indian warmth and Southeast Asian spice. Each morsel is delicate yet packed with flavour, a reminder of how borders blur when it comes to good food.
For the main course, I try the khmer sea bass amok, a Cambodian classic brought to life with lemongrass, basil, bird's eye chilli, coconut milk, ginger-garlic paste, a hint of malt vinegar, and sesame. The sea bass has been steamed to tender perfection, and the broth is heady and aromatic.
I also try the jackfruit kasa bao. Here, tender jackfruit is slow-cooked with spices and stuffed into pillowy bao buns, topped with vadi chura (crushed lentil fritters) and a sharp mango chutney. It is a playful, earthy dish, though I do miss the meaty flavours.
The chhatu mulligatawny stew feels like a warm hug. It has mushrooms and tofu, served with delicate string hoppers. A hearty yet light, spiced stew.
How can I leave without a sweet ending? First up is Textures of Coffee, a celebration of Koraput coffee of Odisha. Crunchy, creamy and intense all at once, it is an ode to the bean. And then, in a twist on tradition, the chenapoda cheesecake. The rustic caramelised flavours of Odisha's popular chenapoda has been reimagined as a silky, delicate cheesecake. It is familiar yet new, the perfect metaphor for my experience at Jaatra. Soon, Jaatra will unveil a cocktail bar and menu, adding another layer to its evolving narrative of flavours and storytelling.
Open for dinner at the Taj Puri Resort and Spa.
(The writer was in Puri on the invitation of Taj Puri Resort and Spa).