
I tried the new Ninja FlexFlame. The 5-in-1 outdoor grill turned me into a pitmaster
The Ninja FlexFlame — the brand's first propane grill — is a shortcut to the backyard of my dreams. When I finally have a home of my own, stepping out onto the patio will reveal an arsenal of outdoor cooking appliances. There's a grill for burgers and hot dogs in one corner; a smoker, where all-day cooks produce heavenly ribs, in another. Don't forget the griddle, where I'll flip pancakes in the morning, then chop cheesesteaks at night. Oh, and every Friday, my pizza oven produces artisanal pies that are simply *chef's kiss.*
Let me come back to reality, though. I don't have the space — or the budget — for all of those machines, and that's what made testing the FlexFlame intriguing. It's Ninja's new 5-in-1 unit that can grill, smoke, roast, griddle and cook pizza. The not-so-secret to it is a combination system that burns propane for heat and uses electricity to cycle air, monitor temperature and — if you want it to — infuse smoky flavor into your food.
Cooking on the Ninja FlexFlame made me feel like the pitmaster I most certainly am not. But is it the best grill to gift your dad on Father's Day or invest in as a new homeowner? Can it replace Weber, Traeger, Blackstone and Ooni, all of which are stalwarts in their respective categories? I've been chefin' with the recently released grill for about two months, and I have thoughts. Let's dig in.
Ninja FlexFlame Propane Grill & Outdoor Cooking System
Ninja FlexFlame, the brand's first foray into propane, is a ticket to various cooking methods for any grillmaster short on space. It's not cheap, but it's worth it if you're committed to an all-in-one barbecue behemoth. Propane meets electronics
The Ninja FlexFlame looks like a regular old grill at first glance. Its controls are a little less traditional, and they're what enables a simplified, versatile approach that takes the guesswork out of cooking. Once the grill is on and ignited, you don't set individual burners to high or low. Rather, pick one of four functions — Grill/Pizza, 2-Zone, Roast/Bake or Low & Slow — which deploy a different combination of three horizontal burners. You'll next set a temperature, and your work is done. The grill's electronic sensor will adjust a motorized propane valve to quickly reach and maintain that temperature.
It sounds like a lot of hoopla for cooking a cheeseburger, right? Wrong. You don't have to worry about tracking a small thermometer dial's slow climb, because that progress is displayed on a screen. And gone are the days of wondering if you need to blast the burners after opening the lid, because the FlexFlame will recover to that exact temperature on its own.
A convection fan under the FlexFlame's hood is another key element to this formula. Built into the right side of the main cavity and turned on whenever the lid is shut, the fan circulates hot air for faster, more even cooking. Ninja calls it CyclonicHeat-iQ. We probably shouldn't be surprised that the folks behind the best air fryer we've tested found a way to put a similar concept in a grill. It's a technology that opens the door to precise temps and, in turn, all those different cooking methods.
Smoking is the best feature
Knowing the differences between each mode makes it easier to grasp what it's capable of. Again, they are:
Grill/Pizza: all three burners, 450 to 600 degrees Fahrenheit
2-Zone: middle and front burners, 350 to 500 degrees Fahrenheit
Roast/Bake: back and front burners, 300 to 450 degrees Fahrenheit
Low & Slow: middle burner only, 200 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit
Each function brings something to the table (literally), but Low & Slow is the one worth looking at most closely. I deployed that single-burner mode to smoke ribs and brisket with no prior experience, and both came out mouthwateringly good.
But while the low temps help create a tender and juicy result with charred bark, a steady propane burn isn't going to produce smoke. That's where Ninja's Woodfire pellets enter the fold. Though optional, they add a layer of flavor to extended cooks that a regular grill can't match. It's important to note that these are for flavor only. While some smokers burn wood for a heat source, that's not the case here (which is a good thing for beginners, as cooking with live fire takes skill and practice).
The pellets are added to a small hopper on the right exterior of the grill and ignited with an electronic element. The hopper is adjacent to the fan, which circulates the smoke. Cooking for hours? Add more pellets when you stop seeing (and smelling) the evidence. This feature can even be applied to cold items without any cooking. Smoked cheeses, cocktails and raw fish are all fair game.
I smoked my meals in the backyard, and the aroma was so heavenly that family arriving in the front of the house got a delightful whiff. They were equally satisfied with the resulting taste several hours later. (Yes, masquerading as a real barbecue boss was one of the most satisfying experiences I've had testing products.)
It's easy to build
A great product falls down a few rungs if it's a pain to build. That wasn't the case here. Every tool needed to put the FlexFlame together is included in the box. If you've ever lost precious time deciphering confusing instruction manuals, you'll appreciate the easy-to-follow 3D instructions in the Bilt app.
Instead of flipping through pages and trying to make sense of illustrations, the app lets you pinch and drag on your phone's screen to visualize each step from any angle, not just flat on a piece of paper. For example, when positioning the electronic unit under the right side table, the app shows you exactly what it's supposed to look like as if it were underneath that table with you. It's sort of like the Google Street View of assembly. The process took two hours for two people to fully build the grill, though we weren't in a hurry. It could've been done faster.
A few other details helped make acclimating to the FlexFlame fairly seamless. A 39-page booklet littered with explainers, tips, recipes and cooking recommendations (and ads to buy more Ninja stuff) eased the transition from traditional grilling.
5-in-1 … if you pay extra
There's a catch, and it's a pretty big one. The FlexFlame is already $1,000. That price does not include any griddles or pizza accessories. So, while you're getting a 'cooking system,' the components that bring out its best are add-ons. Ninja offers a $1,275 package that bundles the grill with a half-griddle, a pizza stone, a pizza peel, two 2-pound bags of pellets, an expanded smoking rack and a grill cover. That's solid value, but I wish more was possible in the base price.
The real argument exists in your alternatives. Our most recent grill testing pegs the Weber Genesis E-325s as the best propane grill, and it's $949. Our top pellet smoker, the Traeger Ironwood 885, is $1,400. Want the best gas pizza oven? The Ooni Karu 2 starts at $399. The quick math puts Ninja ahead, though you're sacrificing niche specialties for a jack of all trades. It's a bang-for-your-buck arrangement that's worth it to me, but seasoned grillers with deeper pockets might prefer devices that have perfected their dedicated task.
It lacks storage solutions
I tested every FlexFlame accessory I could get my hands on, but they can't all fit on the grill at once. If the standard grill plates are installed, that means I have a half griddle and a full griddle with no home. The pizza stone sits on top of the grills when I'm slinging dough, but it has nowhere to go the rest of the time.
Considering the FlexFlame is a sturdy, tall grill, a dedicated storage system for these heavy accessories would have been a welcome convenience within the lower cabinet. As it is now, you have to stack parts in there and hope they don't fall over or look elsewhere for storage. The best setup is probably keeping the half griddle installed except when you need additional grill plate space.
It's easy to overcook your food
Ninja wasn't kidding: The convection element really does speed up cook times. But that means you need to pay attention and accept that you might overcook things if you're not careful. The first batch of wings I grilled had a mean char on the outside (it was actually kind of good). My inaugural steaks were horrifically well done. Part of that is on me, but part of it is a learning curve that took me a few sessions to get used to. The right side of the grill, where the fan and a vertical ignition burner are, tends to run hotter.
The included booklet I praised above has recommended cooking times and temperatures for all kinds of food items in every mode of the FlexFlame. Those times were generous. I'd treat them as a starting point and not a definitive goal. Investing in a reliable meat thermometer will help you more accurately reach your required doneness.
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The Ninja FlexFlame has a lot to offer. Smoking is a unique feature for an otherwise basic propane grill. Its controls are intuitive and a great help to anyone who doesn't have the patience to dial in just the right temperature. Using this grill as a pizza oven makes a lot of sense because the huge lid grants more access than a narrow opening, and the convection cooking can crank the heat up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. The list of pros goes on — just as the digits in the price do, too.
So, who is the Ninja FlexFlame really for? If you've already got the setup I aspire to — smoker, grill, pizza oven, etc. — this one probably isn't worth it unless you have plans to downsize. That said, anyone looking for a first grill or an upgrade from a budget purchase will be enthused by the FlexFlame, because being able to grill chicken, cook brisket and bake legit pizzas on the same cooktop while blessing them with smoky flavor will make your backyard the destination your guests dream about, too.
Is the Ninja FlexFlame gas or electric?
Is the Ninja FlexFlame gas or electric?
Yes, and I know that wasn't a yes or no question. While propane is the main fuel source for the Ninja FlexFlame, an electric connection is required to run the electronic components — the control panel, temperature sensor, convection fan and pellet ignition — that help the grill maintain a steady temperature.
Can the Ninja FlexFlame use third-party wood pellets?
Can the Ninja FlexFlame use third-party wood pellets?
Yes. Ninja doesn't explicitly say so, but considering its pellets are rebranded Bear Mountain pellets, I wouldn't worry about experimenting with other flavors. Just follow the guidance for emptying your hopper when the cooking is done, so that too much ash doesn't build up.
CNN Underscored has a team of skilled writers and editors who have many years of experience testing, researching and recommending products, and they ensure each article is carefully edited and products are properly vetted. We talk to top experts when applicable to make certain we are testing each product accurately, recommending only the best products and considering the pros and cons of each item.
For this article, associate testing writer Joe Bloss tested every cooking function of the Ninja FlexFlame. Though he's not a professional chef, Bloss has extensive experience with product testing in the cooking appliance and kitchen space, including the best pizza ovens, slot toasters and coffee makers. Now, it turns out he's really good at smoking ribs.

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