A timeless retreat in the heart of Sandton
Driving through the skyscraper canyons of Sandton today, it's hard to imagine this corner of the city, today Africa's richest square mile, as a dusty outpost of wagon trails and farmsteads on the road north out of downtown Johannesburg.
Turn back the clock a century, and for travellers on that road in need of refreshment, they would likely pull in at the first – and then the only – building in the area: the Good Hope Tea Room, an outspan for wagon drivers run by former British army officer Gerard Le Grand. Times were good, and business boomed: rondawels were added for overnight guests, and by the time the Balalaika Hotel officially opened in 1949, it had become the heart and soul of the area.
Fast forward 75 years, and the hotel – now officially the Protea Hotel by Marriott Johannesburg Balalaika Sandton – is still going strong; a remarkable feat in a city where, as they say, the only constant is change.
Now, as then, the Balalaika is something of an oasis for travellers. Though surrounded by soaring office towers and the gleaming façades of financial behemoths, the Balalaika remains charmingly low-key. It's easy to drive right past the entrance if you don't know to look out for the brass bull out front, a playful nod to the Johannesburg Stock Exchange around the corner.
Bull? Bull run, get it? Right. And yet, despite the homely façade, the hotel extends across a vast area of Sandton, offering 330 rooms clustered in courtyards around leafy gardens and swimming pools, providing a country-style escape in the heart of Sandton.
While the bones of the property are vintage, recent upgrades have brought the decor into the 21st century, with a contemporary look and feel throughout the guest rooms. Think extra-length beds, smart televisions, and complimentary Wi-Fi as standard. Nice.
Though the rooms are fresh and modern, the bars and restaurants lean into the history of the property. The Lord's Bar is a vintage delight with deep-buttoned couches and wood panelling, plus a good selection of beers on tap. Likewise, the Destination Lounge, an anodyne name for a space rich in history and character. Order up a dram of single malt and rack up the pool table.
With its location slap-bang in the heart of Sandton, it's no surprise that the hotel pulls in a lot of business travellers, who love the convenience of walking directly from their breakfast – The Conservatory restaurant has just had an upgrade too – to the office.
Even local bankers tell me that The Bull Run restaurant is a favourite spot for doing deals in the private dining room over a few prime cuts from the in-house butchery.
During my last stay, I had no deals to broker but loved the New York-style booths in the main restaurant, as well as the on-the-ball waiters who could happily talk me through the extensive menu. Next time, I'll arrive earlier for a martini at the oh-so-classy bar. From lazy days by the pool to in-house restaurants that attract the locals (always a good sign), the Balalaika is an excellent choice for leisure travellers to
Johannesburg. With a choice of gardens and pools for relaxation and all of Sandton right on the doorstep, it's an ideal option for holidaymakers. There's even a complimentary shuttle to Sandton City, Nelson Mandela Square, and Sandton Gautrain Station, so there's no need to hire a car.
And while the Balalaika doesn't boast the design cachet of newer hotels in the area, there's something endearing about a hotel that hasn't succumbed to every trend in the book. The Balalaika may be situated in the heart of Africa's financial capital, but it offers something far rarer in the modern cityscape: character, history, and a calm retreat that doesn't try too hard. Except for the service, which is – and Johannesburg does this so well – efficient, warm and authentic.
In a city that constantly reinvents itself, the Balalaika is a rare find: a heritage hotel that has embraced modernity without losing its soul. Tucked into the leafy heart of Africa's richest square mile, the Balalaika is a sanctuary from the Sandton hustle and stands as something of a monument to Johannesburg's ever-evolving story.
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