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Keeping up with the Keys: From seaplanes to secret bars, here are some of Florida's best

Keeping up with the Keys: From seaplanes to secret bars, here are some of Florida's best

Miami Herald24-03-2025

No one needs an excuse to visit the Florida Keys — but if you're looking for one — we've got several fresh reasons to inspire a getaway. From a crush-worthy Islamorada resort that includes a new adult-centric stay, to a swanky speakeasy in Key Largo, and a new restaurant in Duck Key by a lauded chef with Michelin fame — the Florida Keys is now owning an elevated vibe. Roll down the car windows, cue the yacht rock, and hit the Overseas Highway to explore these new spots in the Florida Keys. This time, you may want to pack something dressy.
This Islamorada resort has it all
Our vacation hit-list starts in Islamorada, situated between Key Largo and Marathon, where an old-is-new-again property will make longtime vacationers to the Florida Keys giddy with delight. The former Postcard Inn and the famous Tiki Bar (where the original Rum Runner cocktail was created in 1969 and many bad decisions were made after sipping too many of said cocktails) has been transformed into Three Waters Resort & Marina.
It's now an elevated, 15-acre property that truly captures the surrounding natural beauty. Perfectly manicured beaches keep the ocean as the center of attention, and the resort is dotted with peaceful spots like hanging chairs and oversized cabanas to gaze at the water. Rooms and suites now have an upgraded coastal feel, and you'll want to book an oceanfront or first-floor room with a private lanai that looks out to the beach.
Three Waters is part of the Islamorada Resort Collection, which includes Amara Cay Resort and La Siesta Resort & Villas, and guests have access to the amenities at all properties.
Water adventures are at the heart of Three Waters. Push off from Mermaid Beach (where a mermaid statue holds watch over the water) on complimentary kayaks and paddle boards, or simply float in the waterfront pool. A real 'wow' moment is watching seaplanes land in front of the resort, and resort guests have the chance to fly off on sightseeing tours around Islamorada or to Key West and Miami.
Fishing is a cherished pastime in Islamorada, and fishing charters leave straight from Three Waters Resort Marina — it's also a great place to watch the tarpon, nurse sharks and pelicans gather in the afternoon as the captains clean their catches.
One of the resort's best amenities is the complimentary Rum Runner Water Taxi, which shuttles guests among the collection's other properties, where guests are free to dine or use the amenities. We suggest taking a scenic morning cruise to have breakfast on the waterfront lawn of ReelCatch restaurant at Amara Cay.
Three Waters offers nine culinary experiences, but a favorite is Little Limon, a rooftop bar that showcases ocean views paired, Latin-inspired dishes like ceviche, crudos and oysters, and tequila-tinged cocktails. It's almost a rite of passage to sip a Rum Runner at Tiki Bar, now a classier version of its former self, while listening to live music; and on a hot day, run to Lucky Twist for pineapple soft serve topped with coconut and chocolate shavings.
New adult crush In Islamorada
While Three Waters is concentrated on families, its new neighboring property, The Cove, is an adult-centric hotel that oozes tropical peacefulness and caters to couples, solo travelers and friend groups. Set along a private lagoon, you won't hear a peep from the other resort; instead, you'll be transfixed on the swaying palm trees and the lull of the blue-green water.
All rooms and suites boast a king bed, and some feature kitchenettes and balconies that survey the water and beach. Start your morning at the glassy Wave Motion Studio for a workout with a view, then sunbathe by the pool, or snag a lounger alongside the water with a cocktail in hand. Befitting of The Cove's wellness vibes, lunch at Hideaway to nosh on healthy dishes, smoothies and juices while soaking up the serene surrounds. At night, a coveted spot is the firepit that's nestled along the water, and you can easily walk over to Three Waters for dining.
Cove guests have easy access to Spray Watersports Center, where they hop on a guided catboat tour — a cool, leisurely way to explore the crystal-clear waters. If you'd like to spend a day at the nearby Islamorada sandbar — which can teeter between relaxation and a full-on party — book a trip with Allergic To Land Charters. They also offer sunset tours, snorkeling trips and eco tours, where you'll cruise through scenic canals and hunt for birds and marine life like dolphins and manatees. There's nothing like being on a boat in Islamorada, even if it's just taking in the sights, and their knowledgeable guides create an enjoyable day in Islamorada.
Chef Jeremy Ford elevates dining in the Keys
One of the biggest reasons to book it down to the Florida Keys is to dine at newcomer Salt + Ash restaurant at Hawks Cay Resort, located on Duck Key about 40-minutes from Islamorada. In an area where fish dip, blackened fish sandwiches and Key lime pie reign supreme, this is a new level of dining in the Florida Keys thanks to Chef Jeremy Ford.
The Florida native is a former Bravo TV 'Top Chef' winner and the chef/owner of the Michelin-starred restaurant Stubborn Seed in Miami Beach. Ford's menu at Salt + Ash shines a light on freshly caught seafood — it's the real deal, as the chef buys seafood straight from the docks in Duck Key — and resembling his efforts at Stubborn Seed, Ford masters vegetable dishes that will easily turn the taste buds of any hard-core carnivore.
Many of the vegetables used in the dishes come from Ford's organic farm in Homestead, like organic tomatoes mingled with Asian pear and stracciatella and jerk-charred carrots with spiced yogurt. Start with a seafood tower — but don't skip the kicked-up coconut tuna ceviche that's served in a cute coconut shell — then move on to standout entrees like the melt-in-your-mouth butternut squash agnolotti and any of the fish dishes. Don't sleep on the pizzas from the wood-fire oven, particularly the maitake mushroom pizza, which may induce fighting over the last slice. Another special touch: each table is set with ceramic dishes handcrafted by Ford's niece, Bree Cisco.
One of the biggest reasons to stay at Hawks Cay's waterfront property is the marina where guests embark on epic fishing charters. The marina is undergoing a major makeover to transform the dock into a boardwalk destination with 85 boat slips by fall of 2025. If you're at the marina, it's fun to watch all the anglers show off their catches, and then grab a bloody mary cocktail at dockside Angler and Ale — it's a meal in a glass crowned with shrimp, a conch fritter, bacon and more.
Secret speakeasy in Key Largo
Sometimes you need more than a beach bar in the Florida Keys. If you're staying in Key Largo, seek out The Armory, a swanky, military-themed speakeasy tucked inside VFW Post 10211 at Mile Marker #102.
Getting inside is part of the fun: Parking is hidden behind the black-brick building, and you'll make your way through a bunker tunnel to reach a station with a walkie-talkie. That's where you'll radio ahead with the daily password for entry (which you can find on social media or sign up for their newsletter).
Once inside the dimly lit bar, sharply dressed bartenders donning bow ties will shake up cocktails like a smoking old fashion or a decadent Key lime pie martini that's topped with torched meringue. There's also a small plates menu with stars like a beef carpaccio with truffle aioli and an impressive two-tiered cheese plate.
Owner Janessa Silvestri came up with the idea for the military-themed speakeasy after meeting veteran and Purple Heart recipient John Donnelly. 'I wanted to honor this man who does so much for everyone, and create a place where veterans are appreciated,' she says, holding back tears.
The bar is dotted with missiles, shell casings, photos of local veterans, and a spotlight shines on the 'missing man' table in remembrance of military members' sacrifices. Funds from the restaurant also support veterans and their families, and veterans receive discounts on food and drinks at the speakeasy. The Armory is open 4 p.m. to midnight, Wednesday through Sunday.

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A less formal, but equally lively scene unfolds at Turin's Central Market, where alcohol-free drinks are served at the city's first-ever dry cocktail bar. Affini Dry 0.0 prides itself on sustainability and innovation. Both are evidenced in their hand-crafted drinks sourced from local ingredients. Their low- to no-alcohol creations include the Turin Mole, made of juniper water, lime, ginger syrup, and kombucha, alongside the Coco Punk with de-alcoholicated bitters and tonka bean syrup. Milan What vermouth is to Turin, Campari is to Milan. The nightly cocktail ritual remains a central part of Milanese culture, earning the city a rightful place as Italy's aperitivo capital. In the heart of Campari territory, bars still take note of alcohol-free patrons with delightfully herbaceous takes for the city's favorite time of day. Look no further than Camparino's historic bar with views of Milan's spectacular Galleria or the stunning Duomo for an alcohol-free 'Crodino Spritz.' The 'Il Dandy' offers a more unique nonalcoholic apertif with bitter notes derived from artichoke and basil cordial. Away from the city center and located in Milan's Naviglie neighborhood is the cozy Mag Café with a drink list featuring a variety of options that change with seasons and trends. Bar manager Emanuele Cosi and his team pull from a panel of gins, rum, vermouths, and a handful of aromatic bitters, all at 0.0 percent ABV, to craft truly unique alcohol-free options for bar patrons. Their 'Da Grande Saro un Negroni' represents Mag Café's reinvention of a Negroni with none of the alcohol and all of the flavors associated with aperitivo. (Milan has a secret—its hidden aperitivo bars. Here's where the locals go.) Venice In the birthplace of the well-loved Venetian spritz, Arts Bar surprises with its exquisite seasonal mocktails, drawn from works of art and served in Murano glass designed specifically for each drink. This bar, tucked into the back of St. Regis Venice, offers not only stunning views of the Grand Canal, but a challenge to traditional conceptions of aperitivi. The current 'Brittania 1201' provides the bar's version of an alcohol-free martini based on Claude Monet's 1908 masterpiece 'Il Canal Grande.' Alternatively, visitors to the floating city should try the 'Spirit Illusion,' based on the life-size sculpture of a dress with no woman which inspired Arts Bar's creation of a spritz with no alcohol. Alcohol-free drinks to try While aperitivo originally dominated Italy's north, it now stands as a nation-wide tradition with alcohol-free alternatives commonly found at bars and cafes across the country. Whether sipping from a piazza in the eternal city or pausing on a long summer's eve in Sicily, each of these soda-like drinks offer all the experience without the alcohol. Simply look for aperitivo analcolico on any drinks menu and try one or all of these Italian classics: 1. Cedrata Cedrata, an Italian fizzy favorite, subs in for an ideal apertif with just the right balance struck between sweet and sour. Tassoni's version, created in 1956, celebrates cedar citrus sourced from Calabria to provide the beverage's unmistakable flavor. Its unique yellow hue derives from concentrated safflower extract and the fruit for which it's named. Cedrata is best enjoyed chilled and adorned simply with basil leaves. 2. Chinotto For a true Mediterranean classic, raise a glass with chinotto. This beautifully bottled beverage takes its name from the sun-ripened fruit whose extract provides the drink's signature flavor. Native to China, the chinotto tree now thrives on the Ligurian coast, where it was imported by a sailor from Savona in the 16th century. Extracts from the tree's golf ball-sized citrus fruit blend beautifully with herbs like cinnamon and rhubarb. Not to be mistaken with its American cola look-alike, this well-loved soda is widely savored across Italy as a stand-alone apertif. 3. Crodino This non-alcoholic favorite hones in on the bittersweet tension of Italian apertivi with its refreshing concoction from 15 different herbs. Created in 1965 and acquired by Campari Group 30 years later, the closely guarded recipe remains the same to offer the perfect botanical alternative to a classic Aperol spritz. Sips of this classic drink take in hints of cloves, cardamom, coriander, and nutmeg. You'll find this soft amber colored drink served simply in its classic glass bottle or enjoyed over ice in a long-stemmed wine glass with an orange slice as garnish. (When you go sober for even a month, your body will change. Here's how.) Alyssa Blakemore is an American freelance writer based in northern Italy, specializing in culture, history, and international relations.

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