Edible works of art on a plate

The Star

14-05-2025

OPTIONAL Naotaka (right) crafting his signature Wagyu Beef and Foie Gras Charcoal Bread Sandwich at Iketeru. — GLENN GUAN/The Star
WAGYU beef and foie gras in a sandwich is as decadent as it gets.
As we took our seats at the marble countertop teppanyaki bar in Iketeru, Hilton Kuala Lumpur, a heady mix of anticipation and appetite hung in the air – all of it building towards that first bite of the Japanese sando.
We knew what was coming wasn't just food – it was theatre, indulgence and craftsmanship layered between slices of charcoal bread.
Watching the chefs move with quiet precision, knowing that soon, intensely marbled Wagyu beef and rich foie gras would meet in a lavish sandwich was a heady feeling.
Showing his prowess was the new executive Japanese chef Naotaka Toku­­­hisa, who hails from Fukuoka in southern Japan. He took over from his predecessor Kuni­hiko Hamada.
The sando was just the start of a preview of new dishes in Iketero's revamped menu.
The Wagyu was seared to attain the Maillard reaction, that occurs when meat is cooked between 140°C and 165°C.
Shrimp and Shiso with Bean Curd Sheet and Homemade Tomato Sauce (left) with Deep-Fried Soft Shell Crab.
This added flavour and accentuated natural sugars in the meat.
Deep, matte smoky grey charcoal bread was arranged neatly on the teppanyaki griddle, poised to cradle the richness of Wagyu and duck foie gras.
The vessel, exuding an almost velvety darkness, was made with Taiwanese charcoal powder.
Duck liver was used instead of goose liver. A technique employed to balance the richness of the foie gras was coating it with tempura flour.
'We use flour to sear the foie gras, giving it a nice crust to bring out its natural flavours.
'Even if the foie gras is resting, the tempura flour can retain its crispiness,' said Hilton Kuala Lumpur's executive chef Paul McLoughlin.
To enhance the dish's luxury factor, a gold leaf was placed on the beef.
A simple seasoning of natural Japanese sea salt, reminiscent of the ocean, was gently sprinkled over the dish that was delicately garnished with dehydrated carrots and sweet pea tendrils
Monaka Ice Cream with Chestnut.
'Everything that goes in our dishes must have a purpose and accentuate each element's flavours,' added McLoughlin.
The sizzle and clatter of the teppanyaki bar, a vibrant dance of flame and steel, gradually faded behind us as we transitioned into the dining room to savour the rest of Toku­­­hisa's exquisite offerings.
A lush and serene Japanese garden was the backdrop for our meal.
We savoured dishes like Shrimp and Shiso with Bean Curd Sheet and Homemade Tomato Sauce, accompanied with Deep-Fried Soft-Shell Crab.
The bean curd and soft-shell crab dish was a complex combination of skill and clever ideation to elevate Japanese flavours.
We also had Striped Jack fish with Orange Sauce.
'In Japan, we use basic ingredients like dashi, kombu and bonito and enhance these with French elements,' explained Tokuhisa.
The Striped Jack fish was a treat for the eyes and taste buds. It was beautifully balanced with citrus flavours and delicate textures of coloured sesame seeds.
As for the Grilled Chi­lean Sea Bass with Salt, Miso Sauce, Toku­hisa explained that the sea bass took the place of black cod that was typically served.
O-Toro/Amber Jack/Sea Bream/Tuna Roll and Ebi Miso Soup.
We found that the sweetness and umami flavours of the miso elevated the fish to a higher level.
Finally, O-Toro/Amber Jack/Sea Bream/Tuna Rolls were accompanied by Ebi Miso Soup.
The clean flavours of the assor­ted sushi were complemented by the flavourful prawn miso soup.
On any day, a big bowl of this would be soothing for the soul.
Monaka Ice Cream with Chest­nut, served for dessert, was a painstaking work of art on a plate.
Monaka is a Japanese sweet made with azuki bean paste sandwiched between two thin crisp wafers but instead of wafers, Toku­­­hisa made rice crackers from scratch to delicately carry the green tea ice-cream.
IKETERU, Hilton Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Stesen Sentral, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: [phone]) Business hours: Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm.
This is the writer's personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.