Egyptian Designer Dina Shaker Drops F/W'24 Collection ‘Neitherness'

CairoScene

27-11-2024

The collection goes beyond fashion, delving into art, style, and identity, exploring the personal stories of the models alongside poetry paired with visual elements.
To Egyptian fashion designer Dina Shaker, life is a dance of opposites—joy and pain, day and night, right and wrong. Her eponymous label's newest Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Neitherness, reflects this balance, encouraging individuals to embrace their inner complexity. As the designer puts it in the collection's motto: 'In a world where people feel the need to be either this or that, embrace neither.'
The collection goes beyond fashion, delving into art, style, and identity, exploring the personal stories of the models alongside poetry paired with visual elements. 'I want the collection to resonate with women of all ages, backgrounds, and stories,' Shaker explains. 'This collection isn't about a single standard of beauty, but about celebrating the multifaceted essence of femininity.'
The Muse
Neitherness explores transitional and uncertain phases that shape who we are, using poetic metaphors of life's contrasts and the fluidity of identity. 'The collection came from personal readings and reflections on life and identity, where I realised that much of our existence lies in the in-between.'
'I have always been drawn to poetry, especially Sufi poetry by Rumi and Ibn Arabi, whose works explore profound reflections on identity and existence,' she reveals. 'I also find the Arabic language particularly captivating.' Inspired by her background in interior architecture, Shaker views clothing as a personal sanctuary, akin to a home.
By carefully calibrating proportions, she creates pieces that feel like a second skin—clothing that adapts to the wearer's body. 'To achieve this, I precisely calculated and added extra centimetres to the designs, creating just the right amount of space for comfort.'
The Concept
Although Shaker doesn't see herself as a writer, using poetry in her creative process is nothing new. She often journals and jots down her inspirations before starting a new collection. 'I felt words would give the collection a voice,' she shares. 'With Neitherness, the concept felt complex and layered, so I turned to poetry to make the message more accessible.'
In keeping with the collection's ethos of diversity, the campaign features models who share vulnerable stories. 'I wanted to portray a deeper insight of beauty other than the exterior that the world often values,' she says. 'I want audiences to see themselves in these stories and realise that fashion isn't about perfection; it's about expression and connection.'
The highlight is Sue, a 71-year-old yoga instructor turned model, whose grace and confidence embody the Neitherness collection. 'We've always wanted to feature an older model in our campaign to challenge the narrow beauty standards perpetuated by the media,' she explains. 'Her presence in this campaign challenges perceptions of what it means to be relevant in fashion.'
The Collection Dissected
The designs merge unexpected fabric pairings and contrasting elements to create something entirely new. 'It's less about following rigid proportions and more about creating a fluid dialogue between fabric and body.'
Shaker selected fabrics that balance structure and softness, such as raw denim, lightweight wool, and bonded crepe, to represent the tension and harmony of the 'in-between.' The brand crafted asymmetrical silhouettes with the concept of hybridisation to reflect fluid transitions, while construction techniques like unfinished hems and exposed seams celebrate the beauty of imperfection. 'Hybridisation has always been a core aesthetic of the brand.'
The hourglass silhouette, typically associated with bustiers and couture was re-imagined to include the brand's signature oversized techniques. 'This is a shape we had never explored before, but we reinvented it through our 'in-between' philosophy.'
Where to Wear It
To reflect its philosophy, this collection can be worn anywhere one chooses, though a poetry reading would be a fitting and playful nod to its poetic inspiration.
How to Style It
Scene Styled Suggests: The collection is all about embracing the 'in-between,' so one shouldn't be afraid to mix formal with casual or classic with contemporary. The idea is to find harmony within contrasts.
Pair the more structured pieces, like oversized blazers or hourglass-inspired jackets, with softer, flowing items like draped skirts or loose trousers to create contrast and balance. To let details like the 3-belt pleats and side-embellished pants stand out, keep accessories minimal with simple clean heels or boots and subtle jewellery to let the clothes speak for themselves.
Alexandra Hakim | Silver Foil Droplet Earrings
Maison Tabbah | Structured Diamond Choker
Georg Jensen | Vivianna Torun Brooch
Gianvito Rossi | Patent Leather Ankle Boots
The Attico | Day Off Metallic Leather Shoulder Bag
The Collection's Standout Pieces
'There is one special design that stands out—a hybrid between the classic denim jacket and our iconic cocoon sleeve jacket.' This piece, titled Hybrid Cocoon x Denim Jacket, is neither entirely casual nor fancy—it can be styled up or down. Raw denim and bonded crepe were paired to highlight this contrast—one fabric offering a rugged texture, the other a soft, sculptural dimension.
'Though these two styles are completely contrasting in nature, combining them feels like creating something that belongs to neither category, yet exists beautifully in-between.' The Maxi 3 Belts Pleats Denim Skirt also stands out, with its mix of structured pleats and eccentric belt details, contrasting raw denim with sophisticated tailoring.
In the Words of Dina Shaker... 'The collection is about rejecting labels and the constraints of fixed roles.'