Discover The Most Charming Willamette Valley Vineyard You've Never Heard Of
Rodeo Hills, a seven acre Dundee Hills vineyard.
Ethan Gordon Photography
While wine is made all over the United States, California's Napa Valley, well known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot and Sonoma County, popular for Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay, still hold the gold medals for top wine regions in the country. But there's another region gaining traction as the premier Pinot Noir producing wine region due to its lingering and gentle growing season.
The Willamette Valley, Oregon's star wine region, is where wine lovers are flocking of late. Sheltered between the Cascade and Coast Range Mountains, this hilly valley shines for cool climate grape growing. And for wine enthusiasts, there's a posse of new cowboys in town at Rodeo Hills.
Jared Etzel grew up in a wine producing family at Beaux Frères Vineyard, yet he wasn't planning on following in his family's footsteps until he took part in a harvest internship in Rioja, Spain's famed wine region known for its red wines made from Tempranillo grapes. 'The family of Artadi were outstanding people,' says Etzel. 'We lived under their roof, ate spectacular food, and drank aged burgundy (we were drinking Armand Rousseau every other week!), Barolo (Guiseppi Rinaldis), and Bordeaux (all the first and second growths).'
A world-class tasting room at Rodeo Hills
Ethan Gordon Photography
Experiencing these flavors gave Etzel a newfangled perspective on wine. 'All of these luxuries allowed us to see the side of wine that we hadn't seen growing up (the sexy side), as our family started from humble beginnings and couldn't yet indulge,' says Etzel. 'We just saw the grit and challenge of the burgeoning Oregon wine industry without any of the true pleasures that often accompany the wine business. Needless to say, after my internship I was fully invigorated and had my mind set that I would produce fine wine where the objective was to make the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that will stand up to the finest burgundy.'
In 2016, Etzel dug in and planted, and, alongside his wife, Erica, Rodeo Hills was born. A fresh and sleek tasting room would follow in 2022. And, why the name Rodeo Hills? 'When we were little kids, my dad piled my brothers and I in the backseat of his Volkswagen Beetle and drove us over Worden Hill Road (where Rodeo Hills is located)—the road was gravel back then and the car bucked like a bronco so the request from the kids was, 'Let's go on Rodeo Hill!'', says Etzel. 'The funny thing is I had to labor for a couple years until it so clearly dawned on me that the only name option is Rodeo Hills.'
Making organic farming the cornerstone of their efforts, Rodeo Hills believes that vineyard farming is extremely critical to producing vibrant and soulful wine. 'I have been fortunate to visit the benchmark producers around the world and I saw the common denominator to the world's best producers was great terroir and proprietors that are steadfast in enhancing and coaxing the best from those unique terroirs,' says Etzel. '95% of them did so via farming organically and building diverse soil health which created balanced and healthy vines.'
Taste delicious wines and enjoy the Willamette Valley.
Ethan Gordon Photography
Of course, many challenges and joys exist with farming and winemaking, including the ever-changing natural environment and growing seasons. 'Growing a vineyard is in many ways very much like raising a family,' says Etzel. 'The baby vines need much more support and as they mature it is fine tuning, but the foundation is set, and it becomes much easier with every vintage. Some of the most challenging growing seasons yield the most interesting and soulful wines. It seems that the difficulty can give them a beauty mark.'
Whether you visit Rodeo Hills for a tasting, or for their 'Long Lunch', which includes a pairing of the wines with a multi-course locally sourced tasting menu, you're sure to have a grand time at Rodeo Hills.
The Pacific Northwest, more specifically Oregon, and even more specifically the Dundee Hills AVA, is great for producing delicious wines because, according to Etzel, the wines of Oregon are stylistically in the middle of the ripeness spectrum between Sonoma Coast and Burgundy. 'You get the generous fruit and silky tannin that present in the best wines from the Sonoma Coast, and you also have a lot of the acid retention and lower alcohol that is present in the best burgundy,' says Etzel. 'I am very proud that now Oregon is focused to make and market wines that are specifically Oregon in style and are not trying to emulate other regions. We are super fortunate to be in the Dundee Hills AVA, as I believe we have the phenomenal Jory soil series and a very high elevation vineyard site that ripens slowly and provides the wines an iron like mineralogy with subtle ripe fruit.'
The Willamette Valley, a world-renowned wine region and the oldest in Oregon, is an easy one-hour drive south of Portland, past bucolic farmland and rolling hills.
Rooms are spacious and stylish at the Tributary Hotel.
Wendy Altschuler
Rest your head at the luxurious Tributary Hotel in the charming town of McMinnville. This wine country retreat, which opened its doors in 2022, has the best hospitality around, especially given its petite size of only eight rooms. Special amenities abound. Not only will you be located within walking distance to plenty of restaurants, shops, and bakeries, but also, you can indulge in a locally driven four-course tasting menu at ōkta Farm and Kitchen, prepared by culinary masters. Guests can also experience a culinary delight that reflects the local terrain through the multi-course breakfast, complete with ingredients sourced from the Tributary Hotel's regenerative farm and larder, delivered right to your room.
Located in a former hardware building, constructed in 1917, this historic building has a subtle sophistication on the outside, yet leaves an indelible impression when it comes to the high quality of service and hospitality. Paying homage to Oregon's rivers and tributaries, each of the well-appointed rooms are named after a river and feature distinctive artwork and locally made trimmings.
Should you want to forgo a car rental, transportation to and from the airport, as well as through the valley for wine tastings or day trips, will be provided by the hotel. You'll love riding in the fully electric Rivian or the hybrid Volvo throughout your stay.
The state's first member of Relais & Châteaux, Tributary Hotel is an experience like no other and one you're not soon to forget.
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When I was prepping for my multi-month coast-to-coast road trip, camping out of my Miata, I did a weekend 2 hours up the coast as a trial run to make sure it would work. So find a campsite with water and, ideally, showers. I love KOA campgrounds as they tend to have lots of amenities to make camping a little easier, though there are state and private campsites all over the country that offer similar features. Some National Parks have great built-up campgrounds. Others might just be a flat piece of land with no facilities at all. Those specifically aren't ideal for your first outing. A campground with a store, or located near a town, can be super helpful when you're not sure what to bring or what you'll need. Once you've got the basics figured out and you feel you're ready for something more elaborate, book early. If it's your dream to camp in Yosemite or Yellowstone, for example, know that the campgrounds inside the park can book many months or more in advance. 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In cooler, wetter environments, you won't need that much, but remember, you might need it to cook, clean, and brush your teeth with as well as drink. A few gallons is a good place to start, especially if there's a store at the campground where you can buy more. Power bank: A portable, USB-charging power bank can keep your gear charged without having to use your car. A 10,000 mAh battery can likely charge your phone roughly twice. A headlamp and other lights: A good, rechargeable, LED headlamp is a huge help. You can light up your way while keeping your hands free. I'm partial to the ones that also have a red LED as those impact your night vision less. A lantern you can put on a table or in your tent is helpful too. A tent that's slightly larger than you might think: If you're not sleeping in your car (which is totally fine!) keep in mind that every tent manufacturer thinks their customers are hobbits. When a tent says it's made for 2 people, that typically means 2 small, very friendly people with no bags. If you want a little room to move around, get at least the next size up (a tent 'for 3' for 2 people, for instance). The tent I used for years was allegedly for 4 people but it was barely wider than my sleeping bag. You don't need a palatial palace, mind you, especially if you're just starting out. Window screens and shades: If you are sleeping in your car, consider window shades and screens. Custom-fitted shades can help keep the sun out so you're not up at daybreak. They can also help keep heat out or in, depending on the season. Magnetic screens, placed outside on the doors, let you keep the windows open for ventilation while keeping bugs out. A tarp: Tents will usually come with something to put between them and the ground. A big tarp is cheap, can add an additional layer, and with a bit of rope can also function as a makeshift tent over a table (depending on the location of the table and any trees). Just a good, cheap, handy thing to have. A cooler: Keeping things cold is great, assuming you have somewhere nearby to keep it stocked up with ice. Camping by the beach in South Africa. Hope you like the sound of the ocean because it's loud! Geoffrey Morrison As in all things real estate, the location of your campsite is key. Sure being close to the restroom sounds great, but what about noise, smells, and people walking through your campsite to get there? No right or wrong answer here, just something to keep in mind. Personally I aim to be close, but not too close. Most campsites will have a dedicated area for tent placement. Generally this will be relatively flat, though there's infinite variation. If you're not camping in a campground there's even more variability. You want some place as flat as possible, with no rocks or roots to make your sleeping surface lumpy. Also look up. Falling branches can literally kill you. If you're on or near a hill, consider what will happen with water if it rains. Aim the door to your tent downhill so you can get out if there's a sudden deluge but facing away from the wind. Also, set your tent up at least once before you go. They're typically not difficult to assemble, but it's better to have a general idea what's going on than trying to do it for the first time in the dark when you're tired and hungry. Dinner and a movie. Geoffrey Morrison For your first adventure, keep it simple. Peanut butter and bread, or something similar, for example. There's no need to go crazy. For the next step, consider some dehydrated meals. I've tried a bunch of these and like Mountain House, but there are other options. They all tend to be a bit pricey, however. You'll also need some way to cook. A pan over a fire will work. I have a JetBoil MiniMo, which is extremely compact and heats up water very quickly. If you're starting a fire, make sure you consult the campground's rules. Not every place allows an open fire. Many won't allow you to gather wood or bring wood from somewhere else either. You'll need to buy it at the store. If you've never started a campfire before, that's a whole other thing, which brings us back to the convenience of the JetBoil or other camping stove. For anything more elaborate, make sure you know every step of what you'll need, including other cookware, a place to prep the ingredients, and so on. You'll also need to clean all of that. Smarter than the av-er-age bear. Geoffrey Morrison Yes, and they also eat there. One of the biggest dangers when camping in certain areas is the wildlife. Areas with bears and smaller, scavenger animals like racoons, will typically have food lockers. These aren't to protect your food, that's secondary, they're to protect YOU. You do not want to be woken up by a bear in the middle of the night looking for a snack that might be next to your sleeping bag, or in it. Don't mess around. Bears look cute and cuddly but fun fact! They are not. It's important to remember that 'food' to a bear is basically anything that smells. This includes toothpaste, moisturizers, sunscreen, even face and body wipes. While bears are easily the biggest fear in some parks, a pack of hungry racoons or an inquisitive skunk aren't to be messed with either. Don't leave this stuff in your car either. Bears can get in and now you're driving home with broken windows and an extremely rude passenger. Since this is your first camping trip, there are a few things you might want to avoid. Some of these are fine for future trips, but you don't need to go all-in and potentially waste money right now. Camping chair I love a good collapsible chair, and don't get me wrong sitting around a campfire is delightful. However, if you're not sure you're going to camp often, you probably won't need something like this right away. Most campsites have picnic tables at every site so you'll have a place to eat and hang out. Elaborate cookware, plates, etc. It's easy to start spending lots of money on camping-specific gear. Don't get me wrong, it can be fun. If you're just starting out, though, you don't need most of this stuff. Plates and utensils from home will suffice at the beginning. If you don't want to worry about cleaning them, paper plates and biodegradable utensils will work fine. 12v or battery-powered refrigerators Again, I have one of these in my van and I adore it. Total gamechanger. It was also really expensive. To start, any inexpensive cooler will work fine, especially since you should be camping somewhere near a store that likely has ice. A 20 minute exposure at my campsite in Kings Canyon NP. Geoffrey Morrison Lastly, when you're ready to head home, make sure you leave your campsite as you found it. Trash in nearby bins or dumpsters, no active campfire, etc. Do your best to get rid of any dirt that's made its way into your tent. You'll thank yourself next time. I also recommend airing out your tent and sleeping bag when you get home. It's surprising how quickly both can get stinky, which is not what you want to discover when you're setting up your next campsite. And I hope there will be a next time! Enjoy!
