When chef Oriol Castro tried ‘rasmalai'

Mint

2 days ago

You need to book a table at least a year in advance to dine at Disfrutar, the 50-seater Mediterranean restaurant in Barcelona, which was founded in 2014 by chefs Oriol Castro, Mateu Casañas and Eduard Xatruch. For those not familiar with Disfrutar (meaning 'enjoy' in Spanish), it was awarded the World's Best Restaurant last year by the World's 50 Best Restaurants list, a status it continues to hold so far.
Disfrutar serves 30 courses between two menus—Classic and The Festival—and is known for its 'multi-spherification' technique—which unfolds through a complex series of steps that induce diverse flavours. Think spheres made out of peas, bell peppers, caviar, tomatoes, pineapple, olive and corn. There's even a table that comes to life as diners gasp and immerse themselves in the inventive gastronomic experience.
The three chefs met and trained professionally, and have continued to build on what their mentor chef Ferran Adrià, of the legendary restaurant elBulli taught them. After elBulli shut down in 2011, Castro, Casanas, and Xatruch joined forces to launch restaurants such as Compartir (the first one opened in 2012 in Cadaqués, while the other in 2022 in Barcelona), and Disfrutar.
Also read: Disfrutar versus Noma: A tale of two Michelin meals
Castro, 51, was in India recently as part of Culinary Culture's 'Global Culinary Exchange' programme, to interact and host a cooking masterclass at The Oberoi, New Delhi. In a candid conversation, Castro, with help from his sous chef Eric Andrada (who doubles as his translator), talks about his mother's paella, his mentor, and why passion and creativity are the reasons behind Disfrutar's number one position.
Edited excerpts:
What are your earliest memories of food, and what are some of the dishes that remind you of home?
My memories of food are not about one or two dishes, but rather a complete experience of sitting together with my loved ones at one big table, with conversations flowing and various dishes being passed around. I remember going to the mountains and eating almonds. I can still remember the taste —that's a memory filled with emotion, and it will always remain with me. Having said that, if I close my eyes even for a moment, I can see food prepared by my mother: paella, stew, baked asparagus, roast chicken, and frikandel (minced meat sausage). Observing her and my grandmother in the kitchen inspired me to become a chef.
What is the biggest lesson you've learnt from your mentor Ferran Adria? You have mentioned in your interviews the equal contribution of Juli Soler (Adria's partner at elBulli) in your culinary journey?
elBulli is in my DNA. Being in that restaurant helped me to understand myself, and allowed me to create, experiment, and invent. Adria taught us to find innovative ways to approach a dish, and how to look, feel, and experiment with ingredients, and remain dedicated and passionate every day. He always advocated for doing better than yesterday and learning a little more than it. That attitude allows me to keep showing up every day.
What, according to you, makes Disfrutar the best in the world?
We don't just cook, we cook with emotion, and I think that translates into good food. I also believe that while we continue to experiment and evolve, we have not forgotten our core identity. Our Mediterranean heritage is reflected in the food we serve, even though it is avant-garde. Additionally, every day, when we are in the kitchen, we discover new ways to excel. Keeping ourselves on our toes, without resting on our laurels, keeps us going. I also don't believe in keeping our cooking techniques as secrets. The joy of cooking or doing anything creative lies in sharing them with the world.
How do diners react after eating in Disfrutar?
Look, I am aware that people wait to dine in Disfrutar. But, it's an experience for many of them, particularly those dining for the first time. I've seen many patrons cry after they've had a meal. [laughs] These are tears of joy, and it means a lot when people appreciate your work without saying anything. Their reaction is enough to make me understand they've enjoyed the experience.
How do you stay consistently inspired?
I'm very persistent, very emotional. While I'm always trying out new ways to experiment, I'm not a fan of the terminology of 'molecular gastronomy', which can be misused or applied very loosely. Technique without flavour is a failure. We are cooks, not scientists. For me, constantly seeking inspiration keeps me motivated. You must be excited at every step and in every moment of your life. Even on days when I'm feeling low, I seek inspiration in some form or another to keep going. Remember, the present and the future come from working passionately.
What are your thoughts on Indian food? Have you ever been curious about our traditional recipes and cooking styles, and how have they inspired you?
Thanks to Culinary Culture, Oberoi Hotel and Don Julio, I have been able to visit India for the first time. I am going to experiment with rice fermentation techniques that I have come across here. I'm always on the lookout to learn more about traditional cooking techniques — pickling, fermentation, smoking, steaming, and there are many of these in India. The cuisine, much like the Spanish region, is so varied. The dishes are packed with flavours, an ode to the heritage and vibrant culinary culture of the country. I tried rasmalai, and it reminded me of a Spanish sweet dish that's similar in concept. I think there will soon be an Indian-inspired dish on our menu.
What are the foods that you have tried in India and where, and what has intrigued you the most?
I've thoroughly enjoyed my meals at Bukhara, Dhilli (chef Vineet Bhatia MBE-mentored restaurant in Oberoi, New Delhi), Indian Accent, Inja, and Amar Vilas in Agra. I loved seeing the Taj Mahal. It's captivating. On the food front, the biryanis, appams, raitas, and a host of other dishes have contributed to a fantastic dining experience. I can't wait to be back.
Also read: Making food is like entering an art gallery, says Ana Roš
Abhilasha Ojha is a Delhi-based writer.