Britain's most remote mainland pub is well worth the two-day hike

Yahoo

01-05-2025

We were dropped off at the end of the UK's longest dead-end road. It felt like we had lost contact with the rest of the world. The wilds of Scotland's Knoydart region stretched before us—primal, remote, and magnetic. Somewhere out there lay The Old Forge, Britain's most remote mainland pub in the tiny village of Inverie. My partner Ines and I love a challenge. But before ordering drinks at the bar, we had two days of hiking ahead—through some of the Highlands' toughest and most diverse landscapes.
Our journey began aboard the overnight Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston train station. Watching the manic city fade as we drifted to sleep, knowing we'd wake in the untamed Highlands, felt like a small adventure. Stepping off the train in Fort William, we were taken by taxi to the tiny settlement of Kinloch Hourn, where our 15.2-mile hike began under the glare of midday sunshine.
From Kinloch Hourn, we skirted the steep southern shore of Loch Hourn, a narrow, fjord-like sea loch cutting between the Glenelg and Knoydart peninsulas. The path twisted through rugged, rolling terrain, sometimes clinging to the loch's edge, and all too frequently deteriorating into marshy ground that clung to our boots and splashed our legs with mud. But the inconvenience seemed trivial when we were rewarded with the majestic views over Loch Hourn.
(Related: What's it like to run one of the UK's most unusual pubs?)
Once a drovers' and deerstalkers' route, this ancient path also has a darker history as a coffin road, where bodies were taken to Kilchoan burial ground in Inverie. The isolation was profound; aside from our conversation and the occasional cascade from the hills—there was no sound. A nearby herd of highland cows eyed us suspiciously, seemingly wondering whether this group of bipeds would disrupt their tranquil glen. A serene stillness hung in the air over a land both unforgiving and regal.
In preparation for the hike, we learned about Knoydart's fascinating local history. This 55,000-acre wilderness sits between two lochs, Nevis and Hourn—Gaelic for "heaven" and "hell." The irony isn't lost when reflecting on the region's past. Once thriving under the clan system, Knoydart was devastated when tenant farmers were forced out to make way for sheep during the Highland Clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries. Thousands were uprooted, leading to mass emigration and a decline in Gaelic culture.
Today, just 120 people live here, maintaining a way of life that's rare in the modern world. As a testament to the sense of solidarity in this remote area, the community came together to rescue The Old Forge in March 2022, which means most of these residents now have a stake in the pub.
(Related: 8 activities to do under the stars in Scotland.)
After an arduous five-hour hike, we arrived at our destination for the night, Barrisdale Bothy. We were tired but in good spirits. Like most bothies, it's a basic stone cottage with a communal room and wooden bunks, but Barrisdale offers rare luxuries: cold running water, electricity, and a toilet. Maintained by the local landowner, the bothy has a £5 (U.S. $6.63) per-person fee, payable via an honesty box. Beds are first come, first served, so bring a sleeping bag and mat. Alternatively, camping is allowed for the same fee.
After a restful night, we were on the upward slope to Mam Barrisdale, the route's highest point. Swarms of midges thrived in the humid, overcast air, but these were minor irritations compared to the exhilaration of looking back at the cobalt loch. Our sights were now set on pushing through the misty peaks toward the 450-meter (1,476-foot) trig point. The reward was a prime view of Ladhar Bheinn Knoydart's highest mountain, often hailed as Scotland's wildest Munro—a Scottish mountain with an elevation of more than 914 meters (3,000 feet).
(Related: 10 whimsical ways to experience Scotland.)
Despite being downhill from there, we still had to trudge through the boggiest terrain, which at one point decided it wanted my boot. Eventually, the path dried, allowing our pace to quicken as we headed towards the sparkling waters of Inverie Bay. Turning one last corner, we saw a post office among a handful of shops on the tiniest main streets and The Old Forge signpost overlooking the "heavenly" Loch Nevis. We had made it!
The pub is a modest, whitewashed building with a cozy interior, and it was surprisingly busy with a vibrant mix of day trippers, locals, and hikers. As we took our seats with celebratory pints in hand, Will O'Neil, the pub's manager, welcomed us with a warm smile. "It started as a bit of a joke, but then we wanted to buy our pub," said Will, who epitomizes the spirit and resilience of this tiny corner of Scotland. He added, "Running a pub as remote as this is hard work. Many of the shareholders give their precious time to help out. There's so much to do but we love it."
The pub's Business Development Manager, Stephanie Harris, who grew up in Knoydart and founded Visit Knoydart, captured the collaborative attitude of the village best when she said, 'The best part of being a shareholder is playing an active role in the pub's future.' She added, 'I want to offer my skills in any way that would be useful.'
As we sipped our pints and rested our aching limbs, we reflected on Will's words and wondered if Inverie's story could be a blueprint for struggling communities. We couldn't think of a better one.
(Related: These British pubs serve food worth traveling for.)
If you're planning to hike to The Old Forge, preparation is key. This is a remote and demanding route, so bring a map, GPS, and plenty of food and water. Also, let someone know your planned route and estimated arrival time. A lightweight sleeping bag and mat are essential if you're staying in a bothy.
(Related: Editors' picks: 10 of our favourite UK pubs for summer.)
Peter Elia is a travel journalist and photographer who explores the world's less traveled hiking trails—follow him on Instagram @themanwhohikedtheworld