Macron Says EU Must Reinvent Its Relationship With the UK
The European Union must revamp its alliance with the UK, French President Emmanuel Macron said Thursday in Paris, ahead of a summit next week that aims to reset relations between the bloc and its former member country.
'Post-Brexit we need to change and completely reinvent the relationship,' Macron said in remarks at at the JPMorgan Global Markets Conference in Paris, adding that it was a priority for the EU in the coming months.
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Hamilton Spectator
an hour ago
- Hamilton Spectator
New crime novels feature a locked-room mystery, a Scarborough stabbing and a Jan. 6 insurrectionist
It's a weird time in American politics, which means it's a perfect time for Florida novelist Carl Hiaasen to plumb the satirical depths of corruption and malfeasance in his home state. His last novel, 2020's 'Squeeze Me,' suffered from a subplot that attempted to satirize the once-and-current occupant of the White House, a Falstaffian spray-tanned figure so outrageous as to be almost impervious to satire. For 'Fever Beach,' Hiaasen wisely steers clear of POTUS and his inept administration, preferring instead to focus on wanton corruption at a lower level. 'Fever Beach,' by Carl Hiaasen, Alfred A. Knopf, $34.99. The new novel begins with a meet-cute on an airplane between Twilly Spree and Viva Morales. Twilly is a stock Hiaasen character: an independently wealthy Florida do-gooder who spends his time making life miserable for folks who litter, antagonize the local wildlife or otherwise cause environmental or social havoc. Viva's job is administering the foundation of a couple of rich right-wing octogenarians whose fundraising operates as a money-laundering front to finance the campaign of far-right (and profoundly stupid) congressman Clure Boyette, in hot water with his obstreperous father over a scandal involving an underage prostitute named Galaxy. Add in Viva's landlord — a Jan. 6 insurrectionist named Dale Figgo who heads the Strokers for Freedom (a white nationalist militia whose name is a rebuke to the Proud Boys' insistence on refraining from masturbation) — and his cohort, the violent and reckless Jonas Onus, and you have all the ingredients for a classic Hiaasen caper. Twenty years ago, German-born author Leonie Swann debuted one of the most delightful detective teams in genre history: a flock of sheep on the trail of the person responsible for killing their shepherd with a spade through the chest. After a two-decade absence, Miss Maple, Othello, Mopple the Whale, and the other woolly sleuths are back on the case, this time on behalf of their new herder, Rebecca, the daughter of the early book's victim. 'Big Bad Wool,' by Leonie Swann, Soho Crime, $38.95. Rebecca, her intrusive Mum, and the sheep are overwintering in the lee of a French chateau where there are rumours of a marauding Garou — a werewolf — that is responsible for mutilating deer in the nearby woods. Among other strange occurrences, Rebecca's red clothing is found torn to pieces and some sheep go missing — and soon enough there's a dead human for the flock, in the uncomfortable company of a group of local goats, to deal with. 'Big Bad Wool' is a charming romp, whose pleasure comes largely from the ironic distance between the sheep's understanding of the world and that of the people who surround them. ('The humans in the stories did plenty of ridiculous things. Spring cleaning, revenge and diets.') Their enthusiasm and excitement results in prose that is a bit too reliant on exclamation points, and some of the more heavy-handed puns (like the sheep's insistence on 'woolpower') seem forced, but this is nevertheless a fun variation on the traditional country cosy. Romance novelist Uzma Jalaluddin takes a turn into mystery with this new book about amateur sleuth Kausar Khan. A widow in her late 50s, Kausar returns to Toronto from North Bay to help her daughter, Sana, who has been accused of stabbing her landlord to death in her Scarborough mall boutique. The police — including Sana's old flame, Ilyas — are convinced Sana is the prime suspect, but Kausar is determined to prove her daughter innocent. 'Detective Aunty,' by Uzma Jalaluddin, HarperCollins, $25.99. Her investigation involves a couple of competing developers, both of whom want to purchase the land on which the mall stands, along with members of the dead man's family and fellow shopkeepers. On the domestic front, Kausar finds herself concerned with Sana's deteriorating marriage to her husband, Hamza, and her teenage granddaughter's sullenness and mysterious nighttime disappearances. Jalaluddin does a good job integrating the various elements of her plot, and the familial relationships are nicely calibrated. The momentum is impeded, however, by a preponderance of clichés ('Playing devil's advocate, Kausar asked …'; 'Kausar's blood ran cold') and a tendency to hold the reader's hand by defining every easily Googleable Urdu word or greeting too programmatically. More attention to the writing on the line level would have helped move this one along. Yukito Ayatsuji's clever postmodern locked-room mystery was first published in Japanese in 2009; it appears for the first time in English translation, which is good news for genre fans. 'The Labyrinth House Murders,' by Yukito Ayatsuji, Pushkin Vertigo, $24.95. Ayatsuji's narrative is framed by Shimada, a mystery aficionado, who is presented with a novelization about murders that took place at the home of famed mystery writer Miyagaki Yotaro, found dead by his own hand soon after the manuscript opens. Miyagaki has left a bizarre challenge for the writers gathered at his Byzantine Labyrinth House: each must write a story featuring a murder, and the victim must be the writer him- or herself. The winning author, as adjudicated by a group of critics also convened at Labyrinth House, will inherit Miyagaki's sizable fortune. As the writers compete for the reward, bodies start falling in real life and Ayatsuji has a grand time playing metafictional games with his readers, challenging them to figure out who the culprit is in the context of a story that owes more than a small debt to Agatha Christie's 'And Then There Were None.' But Ayatsuji does Christie one better; it is only once the afterword, which closes the framed narrative, has unfolded that the reader fully understands how cleverly the author has conceived his multi-layered fictional trap.
Yahoo
4 hours ago
- Yahoo
Global Fashion Agenda Addresses Sustainability's Struggles: Uncertainty Looms Amid Policy Shifts, Economic Pressures and Tariffs
COPENHAGEN — Does sustainability stand a chance in a world where it is being increasingly de-prioritized amid shifting government policies, mounting tariffs and more conservative political climates? That was the question attendees grappled with at this year's Global Fashion Agenda conference in Copenhagen. Organizers acknowledged the mood was 'somber,' reflecting rising uncertainty. Attendance was lighter, as brands cut budgets and pivoted toward contingency planning in response to legislative delays and economic headwinds. More from WWD Miley Cyrus Puts Her Own Twist on a '80s Rockstar Hairstyle at the Chanel and Tribeca Film Festival Luncheon in NYC Miley Cyrus, Parker Posey, Riley Keough & More Celebrate 'Through Her Lens' With Chanel and Tribeca Lucy Liu Anchors Chanel Textured Midi Dress With Pearl-heeled Pumps at TriBeCa Through Her Lens Luncheon In Europe, the European Commission's conservative pivot has led to a rollback of key legislation, most notably the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive. The directive, which required large companies to identify and address human rights and environmental impacts across their supply chains, is now partially on hold, leaving many companies in limbo. 'The EU has given the world a political signal that we, too, are going to do things differently, and I would even call it a sort of 'Trump lite,'' said European Parliament member Lara Wolters. Though the EU's upcoming changes are being framed as simplifications, 'it's far too soon…to make a harsh policy move like this. And yet that's been done and everybody is now scrambling to try to do damage control,' said Wolters. The likely outcome will be more paperwork on imports and burdens on small businesses, with less scrutiny at the source of production. In the U.S., new tariffs under the Trump administration have further complicated sustainability strategies. Companies investing in decarbonizing their supply chains now face uncertainty around future production costs and sourcing locations. 'It's hard to convince your CFO to make that decision,' said Chelsea Murtha, senior director of sustainability at the American Apparel and Footwear Association. '[Companies are] operating in confusion.' Meanwhile, states that once led on climate action are facing rising costs and cross-border partnerships, such as U.S.-Canadian collaborations on recycling and sorting systems, are now under threat due to the new fees and increased shipping complexity. USAID had long funded many NGOs and programs that U.S. brands relied on to monitor human rights and labor conditions in sourcing countries. That support is now cut, and brands are being asked to fill the gap. 'As much as the brands would like to, they're also getting squeezed by the tariffs,' said Murtha. 'So there's this sort of paralysis happening right now where everyone's trying to figure out what on earth can we continue to hold on to?' Claus Teilmann Petersen, Bestseller's head of sustainability and human rights, urged brands to channel this uncertainty into 'productive paranoia.' He believes that while the EU battle 'is kind of lost,' legislators should regroup to implement simplified due diligence based on global OECD guidelines. GFA's vice president of public affairs María Luisa Martínez Díez added that geopolitical instability is adding to the uncertainty. 'Wars and conflicts [are] also disrupting the industry, with brands having to reassess production locations and loans due to the risky conflict zones.' Financing is also impacted, with banks less inclined to fund factory upgrades that set out to reduce carbon emissions or water use. 'The focus on sustainability has been left behind, fading into the background, to the favor of competitors,' she noted. Adding to the challenge is the compliance burden of data collection and upcoming circular economy regulations. Brands are navigating varying rules from the U.S., EU, China and pending new laws in India, South America and Mexico. Amid the gloom, some companies see a silver lining in artificial intelligence. One promising use case is to modernize the outdated wholesale model. 'The system relies on the traditional system of bulk ordering,' said MannyAI cofounder and chief executive officer Shruti Grover. AI, she suggested, could optimize inventory, reduce overstock, and cut costs. The system relies on the traditional method of bulk ordering. Brands have to front the stock then absorb the cost of any items that are returned. Revamping the system could be especially beneficial for small brands, but this would break longstanding business practices and is resisted by existing players in the industry. 'So brands need to take a really brave decision for this,' she said. But while AI has potential, so far it has not paid out, according to research from BCG. Arti Zeighami, partner and director at the consulting group's tech design division BCGX, shared that only 4 percent of CEOs implementing AI have seen measurable return on investment, highlighting a gap between hype and tangible value. Still, smaller brands see opportunity. Mudd Jeans CEO Jolanda Brink said AI could enable her 12-person team to compete at scale. 'Everybody's talking like people are scared about AI, but I'm actually thinking this can tremendously help me,' she told WWD. 'It used to be large team, large results. So now this can be small team, large results.' Brink hopes to build a product lifecycle management system and launch targeted paid ads built with AI tools, especially to reach 'light green' consumers who value style but consider sustainability a bonus. She sees this possibility as a win-win. 'That is really good for retailers also, because that means they don't have to invest a lot in us, because they can see if it sells, and then they can order from us,' she said. StyleDNA cofounder and CEO Elena Volkova echoed the hype vs. value gap in AI, this time from the consumer perspective. Her research found that while 82 percent of users want AI-assisted shopping, many haven't acted on its suggestions. It will take time for consumers to develop trust in a new system and to see any personal value in using it, she said. This disconnect between intention and action was a recurring theme. Visa Europe's vice president of impact and sustainability Katherine Brown said their Behavioral Insights Lab found 87 percent of consumers want to shop sustainably, but only 27 percent follow through. The lab partners with retailers such as Selfridges, Cos, and John Lewis to test messaging and to nudge strategies that drive more sustainable choices. For Gen Z, framing sustainability as community-driven behavior raised sales at Cos by 22 percent. Pre-purchase nudges promoting refillables were also successful in a Charlotte Tilbury case study, she told WWD. These 'nudges' are less about hard-hitting sustainability messaging and more about a few key words that appeal to style or make economic sense to consumers in a softer way. Visa is also exploring 'agentic AI,' which autonomously searches and shops for products based on a consumer's personalized preferences. Yet trust and fraud prevention remain critical, especially in resale. 'There is just so much financial fraud at this moment in time, so people really do want to know that if I'm buying something, I want to know that it's from a real source,' she said. 'Trust and security is not yet robust in the resale market.' Visa is supporting digital passports to ensure the authenticity of goods as well as ensure the payments systems behind secondhand transactions. The lab, focused on Europe, plans to expand into global markets and new sectors, including travel and home goods. 'The fashion industry has been a brilliant starting point because the industry just so vastly needs to understand how to move people away from fast fashion,' said Brown. Devon Leahy, global head of sustainability at L Catterton, stressed the business case for bridging the gap. 'Closing the consumer gap is tangible financial value,' she said, urging brands to present sustainability as a co-benefit, not the primary purchase driver. Florence Bulté, chief sustainability officer at Chalhoub Group, discussed efforts to shift secondhand perceptions in the Middle East, where the group operates. When the group launched a jewelry rental program, she knew it would appeal to expats in the region. But to her surprise, it performed better than expected with local communities. The group is working to extend this kind of change with handbags and shoes as well. GFA CEO Federica Marchionni acknowledged the global moment. 'This time was a very different feeling…we were anxious of the time and the situation we are living in, and it's hard to tackle all of these barriers that are growing every day,' she said, highlighting the event's theme of 'Barriers and Bridges.' 'I always say that sustainability can really be the uniting bond,' she said. Many attendees noted that this year's conference felt smaller, whether due to overlapping events, tighter travel budgets, or broader fatigue. SXSW London was scheduled at the same time, where one attendee was due to be a panelist before she realized the dates conflicted, and the Textiles Recycling Expo was happening in Brussels. As a result, 'all the recyclers are there and the brands are here,' the attendee said. Though fewer CEOs were visible, C-level sustainability leaders from brands like Chanel and Kering participated in closed-door roundtables. Kering even brought along its first 'sustainability futurist,' who is focused on studying long-range transformation a decade out. One returning attendee, attending for the sixth time, said they had hoped for more 'actionable' content given how 'people have backed down on messaging.' Nonetheless, the networking was strong. 'It's good to meet people we only see on Zoom,' one attendee said. 'In that aspect, it is doing its job.' A standout moment of the week was the debut of Lycra EcoMade with Qira — a corn-based stretch fiber containing 70 percent renewable content. The drop-in replacement for petroleum-based Lycra delivers the same performance, making it possible for activewear such as yoga pants to go bio-based. There's no difference in appearance or feel. Both CEOs were on hand to unveil the fiber at the event, Lycra's Gary Smith and Qira's Jon Veldhouse. The fiber has been in development for seven years, and already piloted by brands like A-Golde. The material is being produced at a factory in Iowa and will scale to 65 tons a year, with the first large-scale shipments expected this fall for inclusion in spring collections. Leather alternative pioneer Modern Meadow also revealed its newly rebranded material, Innovera, with CEO David Williamson on hand to discuss the future of bio-designed material innovations. To close the week, Refibered was awarded the GFA Trailblazer prize. The startup uses AI to identify textile compositions, helping recyclers and boosting resale authentication and traceability. Best of WWD Walmart Calls California Waste Dumping Lawsuit 'Unjustified' Year in Review: Sustainability's Biggest Controversies of 2021 Year in Review: Sustainability's New Strides
Yahoo
6 hours ago
- Yahoo
Israel vows to stop aid boat with Greta Thunberg and other activists on board from reaching Gaza
Israel vowed on Sunday to stop an aid boat carrying Greta Thunberg and other activists on board from reaching Gaza. As of Sunday evening, the UK-flagged civilian vessel was north of Egypt in the Mediterranean Sea, slowly approaching the coast of Gaza. The 'Madleen' is part of the Freedom Flotilla Coalition, an organization that has campaigned against Israel's blockade of Gaza and tried to break the siege by boat. 'We know that it's a very risky mission and we know that previous experiences with flotillas like this have resulted in attacks, violence and even cases of death,' Thunberg told CNN on Saturday. 'But of course none of those risks are even remotely as high as the risk that Palestinians are facing everyday just by trying to survive.' Defense Minister Israel Katz reiterated that the Madleen, operated by the Freedom Flotilla Coalition, would not make it to the besieged enclave. 'I have instructed the IDF to ensure that the 'Madleen' flotilla does not reach Gaza,' said Katz in a statement, referring to the name of the ship. Katz warned the ship that 'you'd better turn back – because you will not reach Gaza.' Thunberg and the Madleen expect to reach Gaza within the next day, organizer Yasemin Acar told CNN on Saturday. 'We are still on our way to Gaza. There's no turning back, and we're hoping to make it into Gaza within two days,' Acar said. The coalition campaigns to end Israel's blockade of Gaza and has tried to reach the enclave several times in the past After an 11-week blockade that prevented any humanitarian aid from entering Gaza, Israel has begun allowing a trickle of aid in once again. But it is only a fraction of the aid that entered the enclave before the war, with humanitarian organizations warning of a worsening humanitarian crisis and the growing risk of widespread famine. Francesca Albanese, the United Nations Special Rapporteur for the occupied Palestinian territories, said on social media that the flotilla carries more than food. 'It is not only the aid, it is the HUMANITY THEY CARRY. For all of us,' she said. The crew, which has publicized the location of the ship with an online tracker, began preparing for the possibility of interception by the Israeli military. Among those joining the crew are Rima Hassan, a French member of the European Parliament, and 'Game of Thrones' actor Liam Cunningham. 'From both a legal and moral standpoint, Israel has no right to intercept this vessel,' the group said in a statement. 'The people of Gaza, under siege, starving, and facing the threat of annihilation, have the legal right to decide who enters their territories.' Last month, another vessel from the Freedom Flotilla Coalition came under what its organizers said was an Israeli drone attack off the coast of Malta in international waters. The group did not provide evidence that the drone was Israeli, while the Israeli military has declined to comment on the alleged attack. The ship, the 'Conscience,' was heading to Malta, where a large contingent of activists were due to board before it departed for Gaza, more than 1,000 miles away, but had not made it into port, the group said. The coalition told CNN that Thunberg was among those who were expected to board the vessel in Malta.
