Always Lapar: Retro kampung cafe in town dishes up nasi lemak papadom & homemade gula melaka soy milk

Yahoo

4 days ago

On a trip to Cherating a while back, I noticed how common it was for old kampung-style houses to be transformed into eateries and touristy spots. I love that concept. Totally fitting for a place like Kuantan, which (thankfully) hasn't been overly gentrified yet. You don't see much of that in KL or Selangor, so it was a delight to stumble upon a similar spot just 5 minutes from home: Always Lapar.
It's tucked along a narrow road near a shortcut I usually take to the highway. I was worried it'd be hard to find, but nope, the signage is loud and clear. From the outside, it's giving major 'grandma's house' energy with its wooden pillars, creaky doors, and old-school windows adorned with batik curtains.
Inside, it's decently spacious but a tad warm. The space is split into a few cosy sections: there's the main dining area with plastic tables and chairs, an elevated corner with batik decor and wooden furniture (you'll need to take your shoes off here), and a nook filled with shelves of dusty old books.
The walls are covered with retro Western posters, which felt a bit off. Personally, I think some local art would've added more soul, but hey, the vintage vibes still hit the mark. You can tell they put effort into making it feel nostalgic and homey.
Now, full disclosure: I'd read a few Google reviews saying the food was… not great. So while the place looks the part, the real question is: can they deliver where it matters most? Time to find out.
I went with their Nasi Lemak Ayam Goreng Berempah (RM16) from a tempting lineup of local dishes. It's a classic I know well, and one that shouldn't be that hard to get right, surely.
The plate looked great. The coconut rice came with all the usual bits, plus some extras like papadom, fried tempeh, and a side of thin cabbage in what seemed like a yellow curry or gulai. Nice variety.
But the rice was a letdown. Even before tasting it, I could feel the grains were too firm. It ended up tasting like regular plain rice, just harder and dry. Definitely not the fluffy, fragrant nasi lemak rice you'd hope for.
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The sambal had potential but missed the mark. It was heavy on the shrimp paste, but lacked the depth and balance of a proper nasi lemak sambal. It felt like it was rushed — missing the chilies, the aromatics, and the whole essence of this type of sambal.
The tempeh and ikan bilis were stale and chewy. After one bite, they were pretty much ignored for the rest of the meal.
The 2 pieces of chicken were a decent portion for the price. Unfortunately, they were too tough to enjoy. A shame, really, because the seasoning was spot on. The only miracle on the plate was the crispy, piping hot papadom.
To drink, I went with the Homemade Soy Milk with Gula Melaka (RM4.80). It came in a bottle, served with ice cubes and melted palm sugar on the side. The soy milk tasted fresh and clean. Not store-bought for sure, but it was completely plain. Pouring in the entire glass of gula melaka made it finally enjoyable. For the price, the drink was solid.
I didn't set out to be this critical, but this might just be the most disappointing nasi lemak I've ever had, which is a real shame. That said, the soy milk was amazing: fresh, delicious, and refreshing. Major kudos to the Always Lapar team for breathing new life into a charming kampung house. The decor was thoughtful, nostalgic, and absolutely worth a little detour.
Here's hoping the kitchen finds its rhythm soon, because the concept and setting deserve better food to match.
Expected damage: RM8 – RM16 per pax
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