
Mulberry has ‘neglected to connect' with UK shoppers, says boss
Struggling luxury bag maker Mulberry has 'neglected to connect' with British customers in recent years and plans to sell more bags in the UK, rather than China, to make the company profitable again.
Chief executive Andrea Baldo told the PA news agency the company has 'lost so much business' in the UK in recent years that there is 'a huge space' for the company to grow.
Founded in 1971, London-based Mulberry is most famous for its luxury leather handbags.
With the right product, distribution and communication, we are able to take advantage (of the UK market) no matter where the economic conditions are
Andrea Baldo, Mulberry
But it has seen profits nosedive of late, partly as a result of waning appetite for luxury goods among Chinese consumers, previously a key market for the fashion company.
Mr Baldo said the company will focus less on China and close 12 stores across its Asian estate while aiming to open more shops in UK cities in future.
It will also re-enter the wholesale and outlet sales markets, including by striking new deals to sell its items at John Lewis and Flannels.
Mulberry has no presence in Birmingham or Liverpool, he said, and it will look to expand in those cities in future.
The UK expansion comes after retailers such as Marks & Spencer have warned that rising company taxes and falling consumer sentiment could hit their home market.
While Mr Baldo admitted those factors are 'a challenge', he added: 'With the right product, distribution and communication, we are able to take advantage (of the UK market) no matter where the economic conditions are.'
Mr Baldo, who joined last year from luxury brand Ganni, wants the company to focus on its 'Britishness' and 'cultural relevance' and simplify the business to counter plunging profits.
He laid out plans to cut costs by a quarter compared with the last financial year, following a period of 'suboptimal' performance.
Mr Baldo also said Mulberry will look to expand in the US.
We need to get back to where we came from and return to the spirit of Mulberry
Chief executive Andrea Baldo
The company made nearly one-fifth less in revenue over the key Christmas period than the previous year, blaming a 'challenging' business environment.
That was even worse in Asia, where sales slumped by 28% compared with the festive period in 2023.
In Europe and the US, by contrast, sales grew 11% year-on-year.
Mr Baldo said: 'We need to get back to where we came from and return to the spirit of Mulberry.'
He added that for the company to succeed 'the business model needs to be simplified'.
Mulberry already announced plans to slash roughly 85 jobs, about one quarter of its workforce, before Christmas.
The turnaround plan comes after loss-making Burberry also said it would focus more on its British history to make more sales.
Meanwhile, Mulberry has also hired a new finance head, Billie O'Connor, a former Marks & Spencer and Selfridges executive.
Mr Baldo said: 'Billie has a wealth of experience working in the consumer retail space and has spent time leading finance teams through turnarounds.'
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Times
an hour ago
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Queen Elizabeth's horseback memorial will watch over the Mall
A statue depicting the late Queen on horseback alongside the Mall and another of her walking arm-in-arm with Prince Philip are part of a winning design selected for a national memorial to Elizabeth II. Lord Foster of Thames Bank's architecture firm beat four other finalists with a project that includes a new Prince Philip Gate in St James's Park and a translucent bridge inspired by the late Queen's wedding tiara. A wind sculpture will be included in the park to 'define a space for reflection and shared experience', while Elizabeth's voice will be 'ever present through audio installations'. Between £23 milion and £46 million has been set aside for the project, although a Cabinet Office spokesman said that the design concept would be 'subject to change as it undergoes refining'. A sculptor will be selected later this year and the final design is expected to be formally unveiled in April next year, to mark what would have been the late Queen's 100th birthday. If Foster's plan goes ahead as outlined, a memorial statue of Elizabeth on horseback will be visible from the Mall, making it a prominent landmark during future state occasions. Foster, the architect responsible for the Gherkin building and the Millennium Bridge in London and the Reichstag in Berlin, was not necessarily an obvious choice for a royal memorial. In 2009 he was one of several architects who signed an open letter criticising the King, then the Prince of Wales, for using his 'privileged position' to intervene in plans to redevelop Chelsea Barracks. They said that 'behind-the-scenes lobbying' by the prince should not be used to 'skew the course of an open and democratic planning process that is under way'. Speaking after winning the competition, Foster, 90, said: 'First of all, this is a memorial to the legacy of Her Majesty and in the big picture, the concerns of King Charles and anybody, myself included, who has a concern for the environment, we're all totally aligned. 'Any minor differences in the past about debates or whatever, I mean, that really is the past, and in the big picture is absolutely insignificant. 'I engaged with Prince Charles on our project for the Royal Academy many years ago and I've always enjoyed any such exchanges.' Foster said that it was 'an honour and a privilege' to be chosen to design the memorial. 'Her Majesty loved history and tradition, so this is reflected in the inspiration of the original design of St James's Park by Sir John Nash,' he said. 'The Queen encompassed, historically, periods of significant change, socially and technologically, but it was all very much with a light touch. The feeling should be that if you visit St James's Park and the site in question later, it will still feel very familiar. 'It will feel better. It won't be so crowded, although the number of people that will be going through it, the experience will be heightened, but it won't be ,'oh my God, they've destroyed the tradition of this Park.' His team includes the artist Yinka Shonibare, whose work explores cultural identity; the French landscape designer Michel Desvigne, who created the tree-lined Central Park on the Greenwich Peninsula in southeast London; and Nigel Dunnett, an ecologist who worked on the Olympic Park in east London and created a planting scheme at the Tower of London to celebrate the Platinum Jubilee in 2022. Foster said: 'I knew the Queen on formal occasions but also enjoyed her informality when attending events as a member of the Order of Merit. We have sought to reflect these qualities of the formal and informal in our design, with an appeal across a wide range of ages and interests. 'At the heart of our masterplan is a translucent bridge, symbolic of Her Majesty as a unifying force, bringing together nations, countries, the Commonwealth, charities and the armed forces.' Foster + Partners beat four other designs on the shortlist, including a team led by Thomas Heatherwick, who created the Olympic cauldron for the London Games in 2012. Lord Janvrin, the chair of the memorial committee, said that selecting the winner 'was no easy task'. However, the committee believed that Foster + Partners' 'ambitious and thoughtful' design would 'allow us and future generations to appreciate Queen Elizabeth's life of service as she balanced continuity and change with strong values, common sense and optimism throughout her long reign'. Pat McFadden, the chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, said that design would be 'a beautiful memorial to her life and legacy of public service'. He added: 'Situated in the heart of our capital, it will be a space to reflect on and celebrate our longest reigning monarch for centuries to come.' Foster said that his team's plan was to create a design that combined both the formal and informal elements of the late Queen's role. In a video that formed part of the winning bid, he said: 'How do we as a team transform the values of our longest serving monarch into the built reality of a memorial to celebrate her life? 'Well, she was wonderfully formal when the occasion demanded and warmly informal when she engaged with people, with individuals.' Although most famous for his glass skyscrapers like the Gherkin in the City of London, Lord Foster of Thames Bank has a history of creating wonderful places too (Jonathan Morrison, architecture correspondent writes). He once told me in an interview that one of the projects he was most proud of was taking the traffic-plagued roundabout of Trafalgar Square and turning it into a European piazza by pedestrianising the area in front of the National Gallery. Simple, but transformative. Here he has returned to form, giving the memorial both a traditional aspect — setting an equestrian statue amongst quintessentially English flowerbeds, accessed across a slender 'unity' bridge — and making room for a modern twist. Quite literally, in the form of Yinka Shonibare's wind sculpture. It is perhaps the closest of all the proposals to what the public would consider fitting, and therefore apt for a ruler who was deeply loved by contemporary Britons while embodying tradition and history.


Reuters
an hour ago
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Amazon to invest $54 billion in Britain over next three years
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Daily Mail
an hour ago
- Daily Mail
Jewel in the nation's crown: Architect who rowed with King over planning has now been chosen to build Queen Elizabeth's memorial bridge, inspired by her famous tiara
The nation's official memorial to Queen Elizabeth II will be designed by a firm whose boss has previously clashed with the King over their differing approaches to architecture. However, His Majesty is understood to be aware of the decision. Foster + Partners have today been announced as the winner of the competition to design the permanent tribute in London 's St James's Park, which includes a new bridge with a cast-glass balustrade inspired by the late Queen's wedding tiara, a Prince Philip Gate and two new gardens. Its founder, Lord Norman Foster - one of the world's top architects and the man behind London's Gerkin, the Reichstag in Berlin and the British Museum's Great Court - has clashed with Charles over the years, particularly over his repugnance for modern architecture. He even accused him, as Prince of Wales, for using his 'privileged position' to intervene over controversial designs for Richard Rogers' Chelsea Barracks scheme in London in 2009. Lord Foster was one of a number of influential designers who penned a deeply critical letter after Charles apparently lobbied the Qatari royal family, a partner in the scheme, to drop a modernist design in favour of something he favoured that was more 'classical'. The case ended up in court, during which claims of 'behind-the-scenes lobbying' were made against Charles and his team. Architecture and urban planning have always been a passion project for the King, who founded his own charitable foundation for the 'built environment' and created several model communities including Poundbury in Dorset, as Prince of Wales. He also famously denounced a proposed extension to the National Gallery as a 'monstrous carbuncle', and a stainless steel lecture hall at Essex University as 'a dustbin'. However, Lord Foster has since held out an olive branch to the King, saying after Charles' accession that he would very much like to discuss the 'benefits of change' in architecture with the monarch. Foster + Partners were chosen from a shortlist of five concepts and their final plans, which are still a work in progress, will be announced next year. They were asked to create 'a masterplan that would honour and celebrate Queen Elizabeth's extraordinary life of service and provide the public with a space for reflection'. The Cabinet office said: 'Foster + Partners' winning design concept celebrates Queen Elizabeth's life through a time of great change, balancing tradition and modernity, public duty and private faith, the United Kingdom and a global Commonwealth. The design concept illustrates how she brought these dualities together: two gates, two gardens, joined by a bridge and unifying path.' The design will include figurative sculptures and a new Prince Philip Gate, to reflect her husband's long service in addition to her own 70 years on the throne. It also features gardens dedicated to the Commonwealth and the communities of the United Kingdom to create spaces for 'reflection and coming together'. Artistic installations will celebrate the nation's diversity while a new bridge, replacing the existing Blue Bridge, will feature a cast-glass balustrade that recalls Queen Elizabeth's wedding tiara. 'This design concept will be subject to change as it undergoes refining,' the announcement adds. The Queen Elizabeth Memorial Committee's selection panel were said to have found Foster + Partners' design, balancing formal and informal elements, 'impressive and capable of creating an engaging landmark to endure for generations to come'. The panel also valued their 'artistry, use of space, technical skills and their sensitivity to the memorial's location'. Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster Pat McFadden said: 'Queen Elizabeth II was admired around the globe. Foster + Partners' fantastic design concept will be a beautiful memorial to Her life and legacy of public service. Situated in the heart of our capital, it will be a space to reflect on and celebrate our longest reigning Monarch for centuries to come.' During the competition the public were encouraged to give their views on the design concepts to commemorate the UK's longest reigning monarch. The Committee also consulted experts in arts, heritage, architecture, structural engineering and accessibility to find the best concept to honour Queen Elizabeth. Committee Chair Robin Janvrin - a long-serving former private secretary to the Queen - added: 'Selecting the winner was no easy task. All five of the shortlisted teams produced creative designs of the highest quality. 'Foster + Partners' ambitious and thoughtful masterplan will allow us and future generations to appreciate Queen Elizabeth's life of service as she balanced continuity and change with strong values, common sense and optimism throughout her long reign.' Committee member Valerie Amos added that the design brought to life her 'many contributions to the lives of people across the United Kingdom and the Commonwealth.' Founder and Executive Chairman of Foster + Partners, Lord Foster, described the commission as 'an honour and a privilege'. He continued: 'I knew The Queen on formal occasions but also enjoyed her informality when attending events as a member of the Order of Merit. We have sought to reflect these qualities of the formal and informal in our design, with an appeal across a wide range of ages and interests. To these ends, we have discreetly stretched the boundaries of art and technology with a deliberately gentle intervention. 'Our design will have the minimum impact on the nature and biodiversity of the Park and it will be phased to ensure that the precious route across it will never be closed. 'At the heart of our masterplan is a translucent bridge symbolic of Her Majesty as a unifying force, bringing together nations, countries, the Commonwealth, charities and the armed forces.' Foster + Partners will now develop its initial concept in close partnership with the Queen Elizabeth Memorial Committee. They will also work together to select a sculptor to design the memorial's figurative element. The Committee will announce the chosen sculptor later this year. St James's Park has been chosen for the location of the memorial as it is an area of historical and constitutional significance, which also has a personal connection to Queen Elizabeth II. It is situated opposite Buckingham Palace and was frequented by the Queen and her sister, Princess Margaret, as young girls. The final design will be formally announced in April 2026 alongside a 'legacy programme' to coincide with what would have been Queen Elizabeth's hundredth birthday year. She died in 2022 at the age of 96.