Tiny Saba's quiet charm makes a big impression

Travel Weekly

24-05-2025

I don't like flying. It's an inconvenient fear of mine, given my career choice. And it was certainly in full effect when I found myself in a 16-seat, twin-prop plane making a beeline for the smallest commercial runway in the world; let's just say my traveling companion still has fingernail marks embedded in her arm.
I was about to touch down on Saba, the tiny 5-square-mile volcanic island that rises dramatically from the Caribbean Sea, just a 12-minute puddle jump from St. Maarten.
It's not just the landing that's dramatic: Everything about Saba feels like a scene plucked from an adventure novel.
Emerald cliffs vanish into swirling mist. Narrow roads twist like ribbons across sheer drop-offs. At Wells Bay, which glows with an otherworldly, bluish hue, there's a crescent of black sand that appears and disappears with the tide. And then there's the island's highest peak, Mount Scenery, which lives up to its name with 360-degree views from a cloud forest summit nearly 3,000 feet above sea level.
This is not the place for a typical Caribbean beach getaway; Saba, in fact, has no real beaches to speak of. There are no all-inclusive resorts, no cruise ship terminals and only a handful of hotels: the 30-room boutique Scenery Hotel, slated to open late this year, will be only the fifth hotel on the island.
But don't expect development to change Saba's essential DNA.
Windwardside is one of the four main villages on the island of Saba. Photo Credit: Kai Wulf
Unlike its glitzy Caribbean neighbors, Saba marches to a slower-beating drum. The Dutch Caribbean island has made it a top priority to protect its landscape, both natural and man-made.
Hikers will find 23 miles of well-maintained trails snaking through the rainforests, past orchid-filled ravines and up the steep, stair-filled climbs of old footpaths originally carved out by hand. A highlight of my trip was a short hike up the Mas Cohones trail, which opens up to gorgeous views over the rooftops of the hilltop town of Windwardside. The other reward, at the end of the hike, was an ice cold drink at the Colibri Cafe.
There's diving, too -- exceptional diving. The Saba Marine Park is one of the Caribbean's most beautiful underwater preserves, with coral pinnacles, lava tunnels and abundant marine life.
And then there's the aforementioned Wells Bay, a truly stunning place that's popular with snorkelers as well as divers, with many caves to explore.
Diving tour operators on the island are Sea Saba and St. Maarten Dive Adventures, which offer excursions to dive sites within the Saba Marine Park.
The Saba aesthetic is white buildings with green shutters and red roofs. Photo Credit: Laura Grier
The island's slower pace
The architecture on Saba is strictly regulated and is a source of pride on the island. Saba dictates that most houses be white with green shutters and red roofs, a quaint and surprisingly effective mandate that lends a fairy-tale feel to the villages, especially Windwardside and the capital of The Bottom.
Locals take pride in the small-town feel. They'll greet you by name after a day or two and probably invite you to a community event if you stick around long enough. Saba's population hovers around 2,000, with most living in four small villages.
Windwardside is probably the most popular village with tourists, with boutique shops like Jobean Glass Arts and Every'tings. It is also home to the Harry L. Johnson Museum of Saba history.
The Mount Scenery Trail begins at Windwardside. Hiking its 1,064 stone steps is the only way to reach the mountain's summit.
I made Windwardside my base during my time on Saba, staying at Juliana's Hotel, a cozy, locally owned property with a pool and beautiful views of the mountains.
All in all, there are few distractions in Windwardside. There are no chain restaurants, and nightlife is subdued, with a different bar hosting happy hour each night. This ensures that every establishment gets its turn to bring in customers.
There are no fast food restaurants, only locally run eateries like Brigadoon or the rainforest-shrouded Rendezvous. At Brigadoon, the Thai shrimp with sweet and spicy curry and lemongrass coconut sauce was excellent, as were the shrimp and roasted pineapple skewers and the mahi-mahi at Rendezvous.
The landing strip at Yrausquin Airport is widely considered to be the shortest in the world. Photo Credit: Kai Wulf
Tourism infrastructure
Saba is adding just enough infrastructure to welcome a few more curious travelers without compromising the undeveloped allure that defines it.
The Black Rocks Harbor project began as a post-hurricane rebuild and is now a major effort to improve accessibility and support sustainable growth. Set to complement the existing Fort Bay marina by hosting non-cargo vessels, including cruise ships, the new harbor will help boost tourism. (Currently, SeaDream Yacht Club and IYC Cruises are the only lines that call at the island. Saba can also be reached by ferry from St. Maarten and Statia.)
Developed by Ballast Nedam International Projects, Black Rocks is committed to sustainability with coral rehabilitation projects also underway. Construction is expected to begin this year after hurricane season, with completion expected in December 2026.