Sample Ukrainian Pastries and Chicken Kyiv at This Stunning Sequel

Eater

2 days ago

Since it opened in January 2024, Lincoln Park's Soloway Coffee has maintained its long lines out the door even more than a year later. Artur and Iryna Yuzvik, the Ukrainian couple behind the stylish corner cafe, aren't strangers to thoughtfully crafting caffeine-centric concepts and the culture around it. They've opened two Karma Coffee cafes in their hometown of Ternopil, Ukraine. Soloway Coffee Roastery followed in 2016, becoming the first roastery in Ukraine to receive permission to export coffee to the U.S.
On Wednesday, June 4 at 10 a.m., the couple will grow their community with the opening of Abrah just a few steps away at 2269 N. Lincoln Avenue. While coffee is the star at Soloway, at Abrah it's bread and pastries. The all-day bakery and bistro features a different menu of coffee drinks, baked goods, and more complex dishes for brunch and dinner.
Like at Soloway — a term of endearment and sign of spring, meaning 'nightingale' in Ukrainian — Abrah's kitchen doesn't feature any prominent chefs. The couple recently hosted a four-day master class for their staff led by celebrated French pastry chef Romain Dufour.
'We have a good team, and we train them, so the end result behind everything is due to the teamwork,' Artur says.
Adds Iryna in Ukrainian, which Artur translates into English: 'There's not a single dish or pastry that isn't our vision and matches our lifestyle philosophy. We want to make sure that people feel there is a personal touch to every project we do.'
Abrah is divided into two spaces. One features freshly baked breads and to-go pastries, including creme brulee danish, seasonal berry-filled laminated pastry, and classic plain croissants. On the savory side, there's kimchi danish and puff pastry topped with roasted vegetables, bacon, and mashed sweet potato. For the streamlined coffee program, they have collaborated with the Soloway roastery team in Ternopil to create a 100 percent arabica custom blend with hints of peach yogurt, blueberry, and linden honey. Tea options are from Chicago's Spirit Tea. The couple also plans on adding a small retail section with items made on premises and unique imports.
An intimate dining room open for breakfast, brunch, and dinner, with seating for 24 guests, occupies the other side, with an open kitchen dominating the space. For the menu, the couple found inspiration from France, Scandinavia, and Ukraine with American touches as well. 'We've been here for two years in Chicago, and we've noticed what are the local favorites,' says Artur. But they will be open to feedback. 'We will listen to our guests to make sure that they find what they're looking for.'
'We'll try to surprise our guests with unexpected flavors,' says Iryna, adding that the goal will be to present the ingredients in a way that best showcases them.
Menu dishes include a Kyiv-style chicken cutlet, which is filled with dill butter. It's served atop parsnip puree and finished with pickled onions. Charred romaine and garlicky baby potatoes tossed in smoked paprika and butter sauce accompany a grilled skirt steak paired with a peppercorn sauce. Gombovci, a classic dish from Western Ukraine, features tender dumplings made from fresh farmer's cheese, flour, and eggs. They're filled with ripe cherries and include a coating of breadcrumbs, which adds a delicate crunch. They're garnished with a rich sour cream sauce, seasonal fruit, and cherry jam.
The concise wine list features natural wines, including pét nats. For brunch, the cocktail offerings focus on aperitif-style drinks, while in the evening, there are espresso martinis and whiskey sours along with other classics.
The interior design of Abrah features many custom elements, including charming food images hand-drawn by Iryna on white tiles on one wall. Lime-wash paint with delicate warm undertones helps create a calming atmosphere. Above the pass of the open kitchen, light blue and white patterned tiles add a vintage touch. A small patio is planned for the middle of the summer.
For the name of their second venture in Chicago, the couple looked close to their new home. 'We wanted to play a bit with Abraham Lincoln as this is Lincoln Park,' says Iryna. 'We decided to give some respect for the street and area that accepted us as strangers and made us feel very welcome.'
Tour the space before Wednesday's opening below.
Abrah , 2269 N. Lincoln Avenue, opening on Wednesday, June 4; opening hours will be 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Wednesday through Sunday.