Feature: Egypt's ancient spring ritual, Sham El-Nessim, unites generations with salted fish and smiles

The Star

21-04-2025

CAIRO, April 21 (Xinhua) -- As dawn breaks on Orthodox Easter Monday, Egyptians of all faiths gather in parks, on balconies, and along riverbanks, clutching plates of fesikh -- a pungent, fermented fish dish that has anchored the country's millennia-old festival, Sham El-Nessim, since the days of the pharaohs.
Though lesser-known beyond Egypt's borders, this 5,000-year-old celebration, whose name translates to "the smell of the breeze," marks the arrival of spring with traditions that transcend religion, class, and time.
Sham El-Nessim traces its origins to Shemu, an ancient Egyptian harvest festival celebrating the life-giving Nile flood and the rebirth of the land. Hieroglyphs from 2,700 BCE depict offerings of fish, lettuces, and onions to deities -- a ritual later absorbed into Coptic Christian and Islamic traditions as Egypt's cultural fabric evolved.
At the heart of the celebration lies fesikh, a gray mullet salted and aged for months -- a culinary tradition as divisive as it is beloved.
For Ahmed Ayesh, a taxi driver in Cairo, the dish's potent aroma is a nostalgic trigger. "Without fesikh, Sham El-Nessim wouldn't be Sham El-Nessim," he said, laughing as he nibbled on the fish with hard-boiled eggs and green onions. "My grandparents ate this. Their grandparents, too. It's our heritage on a plate."
The preparation of fesikh is an art -- and a gamble. Improperly cured fish can cause illness.
Every year, Egypt's Ministry of Health issues public health warnings about the dangers of improperly prepared fesikh. Officials warn that it can harbor toxins, including those that cause botulism and severe food poisoning. But the warnings rarely deter the faithful.
Families insist on homemade batches or trust decades-old vendors like Mohammed Abdullah.
"Each fish is cleaned, dried, and packed in salt for 45 days," Abdullah explained. "It's not just food; it's something crafted with care."
"I learned how to make fesikh from my father," he said. "It is a skill that's been passed down in my family for generations."
While fesikh remains at the center of Sham El-Nessim tables, a quieter revolution is underway. Increasingly, younger Egyptians are turning to renga, a smoked herring introduced in the early 20th century as a gentler, more palatable cousin to fesikh.
Factories in Port Said now mass-produce it, catering to health-conscious Egyptians and export markets.
"Renga is less salty, but it still carries the spirit of the day," said Al-Sayed Hussien, a herring producer.
He also noted that the herring industry has grown significantly in Egypt, with many factories exporting herrings to other countries.
"The popularity of herring has also led to new business opportunities for Egyptian entrepreneurs. We have seen a surge in demand for herring products. It has created jobs and stimulated the economy, which is great for our country," the businessman said.
Sham El-Nessim, whether with fesikh or renga, offers a precious moment of unity in Egypt, where people of all faiths and from all walks of life can sit together and celebrate the springtime and fresh air.
In the end, the breeze of spring carries more than just scent but also memory, identity, and a celebration of life that, in Egypt, has always endured.