Bedtime perfumes are having a moment: why Chanel Chance Eau Fraîche, Phlur Vanilla Skin, Narciso Rodriguez Musc Nude and other sleep-friendly fragrances are big on #perfumetok

South China Morning Post

22-05-2025

Long before TikTok turned self-care into a competitive sport, Marilyn Monroe had set the gold standard. The image of Monroe in bed wrapped in nothing but a mist of
Chanel N°5 is almost as iconic as the fragrance itself; it was an indulgence that made perfume less of a habit and more of a seductive final act.
Marilyn Monroe famously wearing nothing in bed but Chanel N°5 in 1953. Photo: Chanel
Fast-forward to today, and bedtime fragrance has been rediscovered, though the aesthetic has shifted. The Old Hollywood fantasy of silk negligees and boudoir vanity tables has been traded for
plush loungewear and dimly lit 'that girl' routines. The crisp, elegant florals of mid-century perfumery have softened into something warmer, creamier; less about making an entrance and more about slipping into a sensory cocoon.
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Bedtime fragrances are having a moment, thanks in no small part to 'PerfumeTok', the corner of TikTok where scent influencers gather and share their takes. Vanilla, musk and powdery florals reign supreme, wrapping the senses in something soft and familiar. But the idea of a 'bedtime perfume' isn't some strict, gate-kept formula. There are no rules, just an unspoken understanding that some scents are meant to linger quietly rather than steal the spotlight.
Lazy Sunday Morning from Maison Margiela's Replica line. Photo: Handout
The difference between daytime and sleep-friendly fragrances isn't so much a rigid classification – there's no perfume police issuing citations for wearing citrus at night – but more about how scents affect the senses. While daytime fragrances often lean towards crisp, invigorating blends, bedtime perfumes take a softer approach, using notes that instinctively soothe rather than stimulate. Mark Crames, CEO and chief perfumer for Demeter Fragrance, explains that sleep-friendly perfumes tend to be more comforting and understated. 'They often include notes like vanilla, musk and soft florals such as lavender and camomile, known for their ability to promote relaxation and better sleep.'
Vanilla Milk by Ellis Brooklyn. Photo: Handout
Nowadays, perfume houses understand that scent isn't just about smelling nice – it's also tied to memory, emotion and physiological responses in ways that go far beyond the surface. 'Scent plays a bigger role in sleep than most people realise,' says Catarina Tucker, sensory sleep specialist and founder of aromatherapy weighted blanket company Snuggle Sense. 'There's solid research showing that botanical aromatics like lavender, camomile and eucalyptus can actually
influence the nervous system , helping the body transition into rest mode.' But what's even more compelling, Tucker adds, is the synergy between scent and deep-pressure stimulation, like the gentle weight of a weighted blanket, enhancing the body's ability to fully unwind.
Diptyque's Fleur de Peau. Photo: Handout
The growing fascination with bedtime fragrances is just another chapter in
the modern self-care movement . And while sceptics might roll their eyes and call them just another wellness placebo, science has receipts. 'It's not just in our heads. Studies show that certain botanical compounds interact with the brain's limbic system, which is responsible for emotion and memory,' Tucker explains. 'Lavender and camomile are both linked to lowered heart rate and cortisol levels, which help prepare the body for sleep. Eucalyptus can support better breathing, which is why it's often recommended for nighttime congestion relief.'
Not every scent, however, plays well with sleep. 'Strong citrus or peppermint scents can be stimulating, so they're not ideal for bedtime,' Tucker says. Then again, scent isn't a one-size-fits-all science. 'We do not start with preferences for good smells and bad smells,' Crames says. 'Instead, each of us learns what's appropriate within our culture and develops emotional reactions consistent with those cultural cues. For instance, if society believes the smell of lavender will calm you down, it will.' It's a reminder that while certain fragrance notes have earned their reputation as sleep aids, personal associations often dictate their actual effect.