What are the rarest Swatch watches - and is my fun investment hobby daft? DAN HATFIELD replies

Daily Mail​

23-05-2025

In recent years, I've started buying Swatch watches as a fun, slightly eclectic collectible hobby.
While friends and family wear Rolex, Omega and the like, I enjoy having a colourful Swatch on my wrist – especially retro ones from the early 1990s, it's always a talking point.
Two of my favourites are a 1996 Atlanta watch, which is a 'Seoul' design and a 1994 First Sin Adam and Eve design.
I've got around 30 now, bought in charity shops, boot sales and auctions – I've kept a spreadsheet, and I've paid £26 per watch (excluding a Vivienne Westwood Orb version, which I paid more for given its designer connections).
I even have a bunch of collectible catalogues which contains every design from when it launched in 1983 all the way to 1993.
I'm not after a valuation of my collection, but more a: what rare ones are worth keeping an eye out for? And do you think Swatch watches will grow in value in the coming decades – especially 1980s and 1990s designs?
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Dan Hatfield, resident This is Money expert valuer, replies: People, often slightly apologetic, approach me in the street, restaurants, even a couple of times in a public loo, arms out showcasing a watch on their wrist or ring on their finger and ask: 'Dan, how much is this worth?'
Not that I mind - and every now and again, someone asks me to comment not on value, but on collecting generally and that makes me incredibly happy.
So, let's talk Swatch.
Now, before the Rolex brigade descend on me in horror, I'm going to confess something: I absolutely love a Swatch.
Yes, I know, it's not what people expect. I'm meant to wax lyrical about the hairspring of a 1940s Jaeger-LeCoultre or the moonphase on a Patek Philippe. And don't get me wrong, I do.
But there's something deeply charming, clever and culturally important about Swatch that no amount of horological snobbery can sweep aside.
Part of Swatch's appeal and why it holds such a special place in many collectors hearts is how it all began. It's a proper underdog tale - think Rocky Balboa in plastic watch form.
Back in the 1970s, the Swiss watch industry found itself teetering on the brink of disaster. We aren't talking about a downturn, this was a full-blown, existential crisis. Enter: the Quartz Crisis.
For the uninitiated, quartz watches (battery-powered, extremely accurate, and crucially cheap) began flooding in from Japan.
Brands like Seiko were producing sleek little tickers that made the traditional, lovingly crafted Swiss mechanical watches look outdated and overpriced.
Imagine trying to sell a hand carved horse drawn carriage in the era of Ford Escorts, that's what the Swiss faced.
Factories shut. Jobs vanished. The number of watchmakers in Switzerland shrank from over 1,600 in the 1970s to just 600 by the early 1980s.
Centuries of craftsmanship were suddenly irrelevant. A whole national industry was dying.
And then, in 1983, along came Swatch. A Swiss-made, quartz-powered, brightly coloured slice of genius.
The name itself is short for 'second watch', a casual accessory rather than a treasured heirloom. Plastic cases. Bold designs. Affordable. And fun. So very fun.
Swatch wasn't just a product; it was a lifeline. A way to get people buying Swiss watches again and it worked, big time.
People didn't just buy Swatches, they collected them, they matched them to outfits, they swapped them with friends, they loyally queued for new releases and in doing so, it helped in part save the Swiss watch industry.
Today, the Swatch Group owns some of the grandest names in horology – Breguet, Omega, Longines. That's right. The cheeky little plastic watch didn't just help save Swiss watchmaking, it ended up owning a huge chunk of it.
Which brings me back to your collection. First of all, hats off. I'm super impressed.
The spreadsheet, the organisation, the clear love of the hunt. You're a true collector.
Not someone just hoovering up for profit, but someone who genuinely enjoys the horological past time.
Focusing on the 1980s and 1990s is also a wise decision. While there have been some amazing Swatches in more recent years those two decades were the brand's golden age.
The design was fearless, experimental, and thoroughly of its time.
And now, with retro fashion roaring back into the mainstream, those decades are being mined for inspiration by nearly every watchmaker out there. You sir, are on trend.
Unless you have extremely deep pockets, bundles of time and vaults to keep your Swatches in I wouldn't suggest collecting all 1,400 versions from these decades and instead be more specific in your approach.
Below, are the five categories I believe it could be worth focusing on and keeping an eye out for:
1. Artist collaborations
One word: Haring. Keith Haring, the iconic pop artist, designed four Swatch models in 1986.
They are bold, bonkers, and beautiful. If you've got one in good condition, complete with box and papers, it could fetch anything from a few hundred to over £2,000.
2. Early prototypes and limited editions
These are pure collector gold. Models from 1983–1985, like the legendary 'Jellyfish' (clear case, wonderfully odd), are increasingly rare.
If you stumble across one at a boot sale for £20, grab it and run.
3. Swatch chrono series (early 1990s)
A shift toward more sporty, intricate designs. Some of these dials are getting serious attention, especially lesser-known colourways.
4. Event editions
From the Olympics to Expo events, these watches were made for the moment and now ride the nostalgia wave.
Your Atlanta 1996 piece with the 'Seoul' dial? That's a winner.
5. Fashion crossovers
Vivienne Westwood's Orb design. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's surrealist touches.
Swatches that blend art and fashion are doubly desirable. You were very savvy to grab the Orb.
Some of my personal favourites are:
Nine to Six (1987) – Playful and peak 80s. These go for about £50–£60 but are increasingly sought after. Like a Rubik's Cube for your wrist.
Kailua Diver (1988) – Sporty, sleek, and stylish. £100–£130 and climbing. A safe bet for future appreciation.
Tresor Magique (1993) – Platinum case. Yes, really. Only 12,999 made for the brand's 10th birthday. Not cheap (£2,500–£3,000), but the rarity speaks volumes.
Voir (1987) – Created by Jean-Michel Folon. Strange, surreal, and rather beautiful. Around £200–£230 – well worth watching (pun entirely intended).
Ticking Brain (1997) – Designed by Jo Whaley. Smart, simple, stylish. These have started to tick upwards in value – £250 or so if you can find one.
Will Swatch values keep increasing?
In my view, many Swatches will grow in value, especially for the 1980s and 1990s models.
This is because nostalgia is the fuel that powers so much of today's collecting world.
Whether it's toys, vinyl, or watches, we're all trying to buy back a piece of our past, it transports us to happy, less complicated times and that feeling always carries a premium value wise.
Swatch captured a moment. It stood for creativity, rebellion, and resilience. It was born of crisis, but it wore that heritage with pride. And now its become something of a cult collectible.
Your collection may not fund an early retirement but it appears to bring you lots of joy and you never know, perhaps a nice little nest egg for the future.
So keep collecting, keep curating and keep an eye on the car boot sales, you never know when the next £2,000 Keith Haring might be sitting under a stack of Cliff Richard vinyl.
Send in your Modern Treasures
Dan Hatfield is This Morning's money-making expert and resident pawnbroker. He is an international specialist in antiques, jewellery, diamonds and collectibles.
Dan's first non-fiction book, Money Maker: Unlock Your Money Making Potential is available now.
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