When ‘Umrao Jaan' is your fashion muse

Mint

a day ago

Umrao Jaan, the period film directed by auteur Muzaffar Ali, in 1981 introduced Indian audiences to the life and times of courtesan and poetess, Umrao Jaan. Based on the 1899 novel, Umrao Jaan Ada, by Mirza Adi Ruswa, the film had actor Rekha portray the protagonist's role with poignancy and depth, winning her a National Award along the way. Besides the phenomenal acting of its ensemble cast that included Farooq Shaikh, Naseeruddin Shah and Raj Babbar, the film's songs composed by Khayyam earned a cult following that continues till date. And then there were the clothes. Designed by Subhashini Ali, the costumes were regal and reminiscent of Lucknow's rich past. In a note penned on social media, Muzaffar Ali writes, 'The costumes of Umrao Jaan had to be lived in, authentic to the time of mid- nineteenth century Awadh in every detail not known to Bollywood till then. They had to conform to my palette as a painter, reminiscent of old-world Lucknow. They had to conform to the evocative nostalgia of the scene…" Old articles talk of Lucknow's aristocratic families gladly loaning their ancestral clothes for the film.
Sticking to traditional silhouettes, the characters in the film walk languidly in opulent anarkalis, angrakhas, sherwanis with rich odhanas and shawls casually draped around. Strands of pearls and necklaces studded with precious stones add an extra layer of glimmer. Mention 'fashion of Umrao Jaan' and the first image that comes up is of Rekha in a white and gold embroidered anarkali decked with fine jewellery. As the 1981 film gets a re-release on Friday, 27 June, Lounge turns back the pages for some old-world fashion inspiration.
HEADTURNER
In the film, hair accessories like the maang tikka for Umrao Jaan and the pagdis and embroidered topis worn by the male characters, complemented – at at times, even accentuated – the costumes. To channel your inner Umrao Jaan, choose a statement-making maang tikka with an elaborate design. This Kavya Potluri creation handcrafted from a brass, copper and silver mixture is adorned with vines, leaves, and flowers, and is certain to turn heads. Available on Kavyapotluri.com; ₹25,800.
IN ALL GRANDEUR
To dress up like Umrao Jaan, think 'maximum decadence'. Choose a traditional costume that's tailored from rich fabrics like silk or velvet decorated with fine embroidery. That's precisely what Divani Couture's Raja Ravi Varma silk angrakha delivers. Set in a deep 'Coca-Cola" shade, the angrakha gets an opulent treatment with traditional dabka and resham work. The look is complete with an orange embroidered odhana and churidhaar. Available on Divanicouture.com; ₹6.46 lakh.
ROYALLY PINK
Take a page from Nawab Sultan, the character essayed by Farooq Shaikh, and don yourself in an achkan or sherwani that quietly exudes royal vibes. Opt for neutral shades like whites, off-whites and cream, or pinks that can be worn in the day just as well as in the evening. This blush pink raw silk embroidered sherwani from Jigar & Nikita, paired with a kurta, dupatta and pants, will look just as suave on the roads of Paris as Delhi or where ever you call home. Available on Elahe.in; ₹93,520.
A PEARL SONG
The passa, traditionally considered part of the bridal jewellery paraphernalia, was a signature accessory in the movie. The bejewelled hair ornament adorns Rekha in quite a few scenes and today, thanks to other period shows like Heeramandi, has become a popular ornament among youngsters. The gold-plated passa from Riana Jewellery is studded with pearls, semi-precious. stones and beads in the jadtar technique, paints a pretty picture Available on Perniaspopupshop.com; ₹9,280.
FLORAL FLARE
The flared or wide-legged shararas have a history that dates back to Mughal times. Their flowy, graceful silhouette made them a favourite of Mughal's royal women. Hundreds of years later, the silhouette continues to sashay away on red carpets, period movies and weddings, and inspires fashion designers. To stand out in an Umrao Jaan-themed party, opt for something delicate like this mint-green set by designer Seema Gujral. The three-piece set features a mirror-work embroidered top, sharara with 3D floral embroidery and net dupatta decorated with 3D flowers. Available on Seemagujral.com; ₹1.56 lakh.
SOFT WEAVE
Nothing completes the traditional Indian look better than juttis. Instead of sticking to the usual, play things up a bit by opting for modern iterations. Label Inocchi's gold-toned 'Carmine" mule, woven from soft leather, is a snazzy makeover of the traditional jutti. Available on Inochhi.com; ₹5,800.
SHAWL SWAG
Like the men in the film, add a 'nawabi' touch to your traditional attire with this Rohit Bal shawl in Khadi base featuring intricate floral patterns. Available on Rohitbal.com; ₹34,999.