Jewellery with hidden meaning: secret details woven into the designs of pieces by Gübelin, Annoushka and Kia Schwan transform rings and necklaces into symbols of meaning, memory and artistry
There's a quiet fascination to high-end jewellery designs – a hypnotic beauty, where clean lines and sleek surfaces exude a serene elegance. Yet, it's within these subtle details that true stories unfold. Hidden mechanisms, exquisitely constructed, invite interaction: a gold bracelet that unveils secret compartments and intricate scenes; a minimalist ring that unfurls into a decadent cascade of dazzling diamonds. These creations transcend mere adornment – they transform, engaging wearers in personal narratives of discovery and surprise.
Swiss jewellery house Gübelin seamlessly blends artistry with gemological expertise, earning its reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and a profound passion for
coloured gemstones . Rubies are not only prominently featured in Gübelin's creations, but are also subtly integrated into less visible areas, such as the inner bands of rings or beneath clasps, reflecting the brand's commitment to ingenuity and sentiment.
The Ocean Ballet cocktail ring by Gübelin in white gold, sapphire and diamonds. Photo: Handout
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Speaking to Gübelin's dedication to personal, emotionally resonant design, president Raphael Gübelin notes that every Gübelin creation is set with their iconic ruby. This 'deeply inspired' philosophy celebrates the intricate inclusions found within gemstones, inviting wearers to forge personal connections with their jewellery. 'The iconic Gübelin ruby holds a deep meaning,' he says. 'To me, it symbolises the passion for gems that my family has cherished for generations.'
Gübelin's approach reflects a broader movement in jewellery, where houses like Van Cleef & Arpels and Tabayer are redefining luxury by crafting creations rich in artistic expression.
Van Cleef & Arpels' Mystery Setting – patented in 1933 – eliminated visible metal in stone settings. This technique involves precisely cutting each gemstone with grooves that allow them to slide onto thin gold or platinum rails. Once assembled, the metal framework is completely hidden, creating a seamless surface where gems appear to float, uninterrupted.
By placing gems in concealed locations, designers offer wearers a private connection to their jewellery. Hannah Freeman of Hannah Estelle Fine Jewellery says: 'Adding subtle details to jewellery has truly become a form of intimacy. It's a way to keep a loved one close – like a tangible extension of a memory or moment from the past. I love that these details aren't always obvious to others, yet still allow you to hold space for someone or for a time that mattered.'
Ray Griffiths' Large Crownwork Oval Link bracelet. Photo: Handout
These pieces serve as reminders that true beauty lives beneath the surface, waiting to be discovered. 'Over the years, I've done many personalisations of jewellery for people,' says New York City-based jeweller Ray Griffiths. 'Engraving is a common form – often, we engrave the inside of rings, especially for wedding and engagement pieces … At the moment, I'm working on a pendant for a client who lost her husband of 50 years. I have his hair, which I'll set beneath a cut quartz lens on the back of the pendant. It's a very personal and emotional project.'
The use of hair marks a modern revival of a centuries-old tradition. Once a hallmark of Victorian mourning pieces, it now finds new life woven into rings, sealed in lockets, or set beneath sparking stones. And it's not just hair – today's designers are exploring a wider array of materials. Annoushka's Touch Wood collection channels the tradition of 'touching wood' for protection and hope,
with ebony subtly embedded in each piece. The line includes earrings and a charm that quietly carry this meaning.
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