Giorgio Armani on why ‘Dubai is the cradle of a new concept of luxury'
Giorgio Armani's long and extraordinarily prolific career is characterised by stylistic coherence, which continues to distinguish itself in the field of fashion. It's as if even the passing of time cannot age the legendary designer's creativity. 'I don't think much about my age. In my mind, I am the same age I was when I started,' the Italian maestro told the New York Times a few years ago.
KT LUXE catches up with the Milanese designer to ask about his inspiration, the anniversary of his Maison, and why he believes that Dubai is 'the cradle of a new concept of luxury'.
The fashion superstar celebrated his 90th birthday last summer and brimmed with the desire to continue creating. He shows no signs of slowing down. 'Turning 90 was a very important milestone, but it also stimulates me because there are so many things I still want to accomplish and that spark my imagination,' says the designer in his Milan office, which is adorned with portraits. 'Passion motivates me, combined with a drive to continuously improve. There is also an aspect of discipline at play: the idea that you can always move the bar a little higher and that the next feat will be better than the one before. It's an endless path of improvement.'
Now almost 91, Armani is focused on celebrating his fashion house's multiple anniversaries. His Maison, for instance, marks its 50th anniversary, while his haute couture line Armani/Privé, which launched in Paris in 2005, has turned 20.
After a gorgeous celebration in the French capital last January, an exclusive exhibition titled Giorgio Armani Privè 2005-2025 is currently underway in Milan at Armani Silos, an open-to-the public space at Via Bergognone 40 that was inaugurated exactly 10 years ago to illustrate the designer's professional experience.
Up for display until the end of the year are 150 dream outfits meticulously sewn by hand; this is Armani's most experimental expression of luxury.
Recalling the Maison's debut on July 24, 1975, he says: 'That particular show was memorable because it allowed me to showcase my idea of modern tailoring ― soft, comfortable, body-conscious, rather than stiff and restrictive. It was a men's show, but the combination of elegant style with modern comfort set the template for my womenswear, too.'
His aesthetic has remained aspirational, with some turning into collector's items over the years. It is, he suggests, the best proof of creating something timeless. He says: 'I take great pride in the new generation's interest in vintage Armani. If young people find affinity with my work, it's probably because I've always stayed true to my vision, simply offering my point of view. If what I created 20 or 30 years ago can resonate with an audience that may not even have been born then, that's the ultimate reward and confirmation for my constant pursuit of a timeless style.'
So, how and with what events will Armani celebrate its golden anniversary?
'I'm still thinking about the 50th anniversary [of the Maison]. But it is too soon to reveal any details,' he remarks. 'This year also marks 10 years since the opening of Armani/Silos and 20 years since the launch of Giorgio Armani Privé, my haute couture line. So, I felt it was the right moment to bring these wonderful creations to Milan for the first time and the Silos is the perfect setting to present them to a wider audience.'
I take great pride in the new generation's interest in vintage Armani. If young people find affinity with my work, it's probably because I've always stayed true to my vision, simply offering my point of view. If what I created 20 or 30 years ago can resonate with an audience that may not even have been born then, that's the ultimate reward and confirmation for my constant pursuit of a timeless style"
Armani enchanted Paris at Palazzo Armani at 21 rue François Premier last January, when a grand fashion show celebrated 20 years of creativity, refinement, and art of Armani Privé. Those creations were made by the expert hands of his seamstresses, who worked in the historic building at Via Borgonuovo 11 in Milan.
'Having created a style that everybody immediately identifies as mine is certainly an accomplishment, and something that makes me extremely proud,' he says. 'I have worked hard all my life to build something true, substantial, and enduring. Palazzo Armani represents a new milestone in my dialogue with the French capital. My decision to come to Paris to show Armani/Privé, a choice I made at the very beginning of this project when I decided to launch the collection, was partly motivated by a desire to show respect for the history of couture and its home, a city that I have always loved.' But he also wanted to demonstrate to the world that 'Italian craftsmanship is more than equal to the task of creating wonderful couture pieces. I am, after all, a proud Italian', he says with a smile.
This year also marks the 25th anniversary of Armani/Casa. Its interior design collections combine Western tradition with Eastern inspiration, and the Middle East has also been a source of ideas. 'Indeed, I am often inspired by other cultures and places I have visited. The East, in general, had a significant impact on my design aesthetic,' he points out. 'I am interested in the colours and fabrics associated with the Middle East, particularly the use of geometry in ancient and modern art. In general, I like to create something distinctive by combining the creative spirit of my homeland with other influences.'
Armani has a strong work ethic. In his autobiography Per Amore, published by Rizzoli New York, he writes: 'I have never taken drugs, I have never even fallen into the trap of smoking. But I am a human being, not a Zen monk. I have never sought artificial pleasure. For me, the adrenaline of work is better than any hallucination or induced daze'.
It has to do with one's nature. Let's call it, 'character', a term whose etymology is related to the Greek verb 'charasso', meaning 'to imprint, to mould, to engrave'. Each character has an outfit that distinguishes one from another. But between Giorgio Armani the man and Giorgio Armani the iconic couturier, where is this invisible line drawn?
'It is very, very difficult to define where Armani the man ends and where the brand begins, because the two are intrinsically and inextricably linked,' he affirms. 'They are connected by my taste, a very intimate and personal quality, and my vision, from which all I do stems.'
What then grows a genius with a love for fashion, style, and beauty? Is it a parent's loving hand? And for Armani, was it the social, political, and cultural reality he had to contend with during the Second World War? 'Having grown up in post-war Italy, the emergence from the dark years created a widespread hunger for beauty,' he says. 'I had a simple life, filled with a boy's dreams and ambitions. In that climate, my mother was the cornerstone, conveying a strong sense of rigour and dignity, values that undoubtedly influenced me later in work and life. After the war, the city of Milan has always been a source of inspiration ever since my first job at La Rinascente department store [where Armani worked in display], and Milan was where I founded my company with my early business partner Sergio Galeotti, who had faith in me and pushed me to forge ahead.'
He says: 'Creativity is what I enjoy most in life. And for me, every day is an opportunity to exercise it. I have a very active imagination, and creativity comes naturally to me. I find inspiration everywhere — in films I watch, conversations I have, and travels I make. My first and greatest inspiration comes from the world and observing people.'
So driven is he in his need to create things of beauty that he's never had a creative block. 'The urge to create for me is innate, and I must confess I have hardly ever experienced a creative block,' he says. 'What I like best about my job is seeing the results of my creativity — seeing my ideas take shape and become reality. And reality is my primary source of inspiration.'
At a certain point, Armani enthuses about Dubai and the Middle East. 'The cradle of a new concept of luxury, a place capable of drawing from its rich culture and transmitting a new, creative energy,' he calls the region.
The influential designer credited with pioneering red-carpet fashion treats fame not as a goal but as a byproduct of doing what he loves. In his autobiography, Per Amore, he writes: 'I have always accepted fame as an obligation, as the consequence of a great commitment... I have always been too pragmatic to pursue it as a trinket or to display it as a glittering jewel.'
Still, when you are on the journey of spotlights and runways, how do you digest success while not letting it go to your head? 'Not becoming complacent can be challenging when you have experienced success,' he admits. 'The answer can be found in self-discipline. My personality is pragmatic and reserved, and I prefer that people focus on my actions rather than my public profile. Ultimately, my work speaks for itself, which is the best thing for me.'
And it is with this pragmatism that he dishes out advice for young talent. 'Have your own distinctive vision, believe in it, pursue it with diligence and passion, work hard, and be true to yourself. Listen to others, but in the end, make your own decisions. I believe any designer, young or otherwise, must follow their path.'
However, he continues, 'You need a point of view that you really believe in. The past inspires me, and there are periods in history that hold a particular fascination for me. But I have always been someone who looks forward and is committed to evolving, developing new techniques and technologies, and constantly asking myself what my customers want today. And tomorrow. That is how you stay relevant as a designer.'
Style revolutions like the one he spearheaded do not come out of a vacuum. Young people have to find a way to do it themselves, taking into account the history of fashion.
Every brilliant designer leaves his mark on a silhouette. In Armani's case, the aim was to make the male figure less severe and rigid and the female figure less mannered, while maintaining the elegant tone that would force others to sit up and take note.
Living one's golden years is bound to tease out threads of nostalgia with coarse knots of regret. But, says Armani, 'I don't really suffer regret. If there is something I wish to do, I set about making it happen. I am happy with how things have turned out, and if I had the option to travel back in time, I would start and do it all over again.'
Running a hotel there for a decade has been a remarkable experience. I am proud of how it has fully integrated into the city that houses it.'
At the end of our chat, Armani returns to his special bond with Dubai. The world's first Armani Hotel is in the city, in the soaring Burj Khalifa. 'Running a hotel there for a decade has been a remarkable experience,' he nods. 'I am proud of how it has fully integrated into the city that houses it.'
But is the success enough to lure him back, to take on new projects? 'The Armani Beach Residences Palm Jumeirah project is the continuation of this journey,' he replies. 'I never know where I will turn to next until the inspiration takes me.'
Every time he visits Dubai, he finds a warm environment — festive yet focused. 'Dubai is an exciting modern city, having grown rapidly into a global metropolis over recent years,' he says. 'I like that it has roots as an 18th-century fishing village. I am fascinated by how it embraces its visitors and leaves them with memories of energy and life.'
It's almost like Armani has found a kindred spirit in the dynamic city. 'Every time, I am impressed by how much it changes and rapidly develops. Dubai is an extraordinary place, and it is a look to the future. There is also a pragmatism to Dubai. It's a city that likes to get things done in a straightforward way. I appreciate that in a place.'
Of course he does – it's a reminder of what it takes to stay relevant, in vogue, and in the spotlight. 'It keeps me coming back.'
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