An insider's guide to Nantes

National Geographic

10-04-2025

Set on France's Loire river, roughly 30 miles before it meets the Atlantic Ocean, the colourful city of Nantes is a cultural and artistic hub with a whimsical spirit. With contemporary art installations around every corner and several innovative museums, the city's creative side is prominent, while its Breton identity also remains strong — in the 15th century, Nantes was the seat of the dukes of Brittany, before the independent kingdom became part of France in 1532.
Even the city's industrial past is treated with an artistic reverence — on the site of its former shipyards on the Île de Nantes (an island on the Loire river), you'll find Les Machines de l'île, a collection of mechanical creations, including a 40ft-tall elephant that carries passengers around the concourse and sprays water at passersby. The city's creative energy also extends to its brimming calendar of festivals and performances — sometimes held in the Château des ducs de Bretagne, a turreted castle in the heart of the city that stands as testament to Nantes' Breton past. Here's how to make the most of this eccentric French city. The Graslin Theatre in the city centre hosts a variety of concerts and shows. Photograph by Franck Tomps, Le Voyage à Nantes When to visit
Nantes is a dynamic city year-round and its annual calendar is packed with exciting events, including festivals, exhibitions and concerts. Summer brings the most action, kicking off in June with rock music festival Hellfest and the Le Voyage à Nantes Summer Event, which takes place from late June through to early September each year and sees the city's already-colourful streets flooded with temporary art installations and sculptures. In late August, the free Les Rendez-Vous de l'Erdre festival showcases jazz music, while in the autumn, the international science fiction festival Les Utopiales takes over the city. Although the weather cools the city down in winter, the Le Voyage à Nantes Winter Event spreads festive cheer from late November to early January, while music fills the air during events such as La Folle Journée de Nantes, a five-day classical music festival held each January that aims to bring the genre to a wider audience. What to do
Follow the Ligne Verte (Green Line), which is painted on the pavements throughout Nantes and takes you between the city's main attractions, including eclectic contemporary art installations on the Île de Nantes like Invendus-Bottes, a pair of giant welly boots and Les Anneaux, a series of neon-lit rings. Most enchanting, though, are the giant mechanical creations of Les Machines de l'île, found at the Parc des Chantiers, a former shipyard on the island. Inside, see the talented artists working on new machines; outside, take a ride on the giant mechanical Grand Éléphant or the three-storey, ocean-inspired Carrousel des Mondes Marins, influenced by the work of the city's most famous son, Jules Verne. Often referred to as the 'father of science fiction', the Around the World in Eighty Days writer was born in Nantes in 1828 and is still beloved by its residents.
Learn more about the author's life at the Jules Verne Museum — located in the Chantenay district — which showcases the scope of his fantastical imagination and includes manuscripts, books and documents, illustrations, posters and games. Be sure to pick up a Jules Verne-themed souvenir from the Passage Pommeraye in the city centre: the 19th-century, three-storey shopping arcade with a stunning glass roof houses a handful of the city's independent boutiques, in addition to luxury retailers such as Hermès. Take in the views of Île de Nantes from atop the impressive Grand Éléphant. Photograph by Franck Tomps, Le Voyage à Nantes An array of mechanical creatures are on display at the Galerie des Machines. Photograph by Jean-Dominique Billaud, Le Voyage à Nantes What to see
On the waterfront (also on the Green Line), the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery incorporates 2,000 plaques representing slave ships that departed from Nantes to main trading ports in Africa and America, as well as moving tributes and informative exhibits. Visitors can learn more about this era at the Chateau des ducs de Bretagne, a history museum in the centre of Nantes. The museum also has interesting displays focusing on the First and Second World Wars, in addition to the city's history as a centre for biscuit-making — Nantes is the home of the popular LU biscuits.
There are plenty of green spaces in the city, too. Visit the Jardin des Plantes, close to the main station, where you'll find extraordinary plant life and sculptures. For a wilder experience, head southwest of the city to check out the Jardin Extraordinaire's array of tropical flora set in a former quarry. Just a few minutes' walk away is the Parc des Oblates, which has fruit orchards and a panoramic view of the Loire river. Take a short journey north of the city centre to meander around the peaceful Île de Versailles — the small garden island is set on a bend in the river Erdre and has an tranquil Japanese garden. 'Le Jardin Kadupo' by artist Claude Ponti in the Jardin des Plantes. Photograph by Ville de Nantes Where to stay
Just outside the walls of the Jardin des Plantes, a 19th-century chapel now serves as the boutique Hotel Sozo. Its decor cleverly blends modern design with the church's best features, including flying buttresses, elegant pillars and stained glass windows. There's also a spa with a sauna, hammam, ice room and relaxing sensory showers. Also in the city centre, close to the Château des ducs de Bretagne, La Pérouse Hotel is a stately architectural monolith with sleek interiors. For something even more unusual, you can sleep in a work of art: Villa Cheminée, which overlooks the Loire River near Cordemais (roughly a 45-minute drive from the centre of Nantes), was created by Japanese artist Tatzu Nishi in 2009. The dinky, one-bedroom cottage sits atop an industrial red-and-white-striped tower. The quirky Villa Cheminée has a small garden where guests can sit and enjoy the river view. Photograph by Franck Tomps, Le Voyage à Nantes Where to eat
Nantes' food scene is bursting with creative verve, which hasn't gone unnoticed — legendary French restaurant website La Liste has even tapped the city as its culinary destination to discover for 2025, with chefs including Sarah Mainguy of urban garden restaurant Freia gaining recognition. Meanwhile at L'Atlantide 1874 — close to the Jules Verne Museum with a wonderful view of the Île de Nantes — chef Jean-Yves Guého serves fresh, seasonal dishes such as Nantes shrimp with yellow carrots, pineapple and smoked ricotta. On the Île de Nantes, Cantine du Voyage serves a simple yet delicious menu, with produce grown in its own garden.
The city's Breton heritage means that the region's specialities like galettes and crepes are well-represented and are a great option, especially for travellers on a budget. Stroll down Rue de la Juiverie for some of the city's best creperies, such as Le Loup, Le Renard et la Galette. Nantes' signature sweet treat is also a must-try: the Gâteau Nantais, a moist, rum-infused almond cake. Pick one up at a local patisserie, such as La Petite Boulangerie. For more dining recommendations, online guide Les Tables de Nantes is helpful and has a random restaurant generator to assist with decisions. Nantes can be reached easily by train from London via Paris, with a total journey time of around 5.5 hours. Alternatively, the city can be accessed by car and ferry from Portsmouth, as the ferry port at Saint-Malo is just a two-hour drive away. Direct flights from Gatwick are also available to Nantes. For more information, visit levoyageanantes.fr This is paid content for Le Voyage à Nantes. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.
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