Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre could be filling at a scale not witnessed in living memory bringing life to those at its edge

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a day ago

Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre could be filling at a scale not witnessed in living memory.
Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is quickly filling with water. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
So we expected to see the South Australian outback come alive, but not like this.
7.30 cameraman Carl Saville filming in the dust storm. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Carl Saville out in the dust storm. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Carl Saville back in the car, covered in dust. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
Turbulent winds whipped up clouds of desert dust — plumes so thick and winds so wild they consumed the blink-blink of our hazard lights and dulled the brights of our high beams.
Ochre grit rolled across roads, spewing into the sky before drizzling down over a patch of Central Australia we were hoping, needing, to remain clear.
With zero control over the timing of either phenomenon — the storm or the floodwater — we hedged our bets and pressed north, past monumental ranges and arid ashen landscapes, until a town appeared where the bitumen ended.
"People think, 'Why would you have a pub way out here?'" laughs Maria van Wegen, owner of the Marree Hotel.
The Marree Hotel in Marree, South Australia. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) An old train carriage in Marree. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) A street in Marree. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Marree's Outback Roadhouse and General Store. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
Her establishment is almost as old as the settlement of Marree itself — a former railway town — population 60, plus tourists — considered one of the most accessible gateways to Australia's remote outback.
"We're perfectly located at the junction of the Oodnadatta and Birdsville Tracks and so close to Kati Thanda, and there's a lot of history here," Maria tells us.
"Mostly because of the Afghan cameleers and the railways being essential for transporting cattle to Adelaide.
Maria van Wegen says pubs like the Marree Hotel are integral in small rural communities like Marree. ( ABC News: Carl Saville )
"Pubs like ours are just so integral in a community like this.
"If anything happens — ring the pub. You want to know anything — ring the pub!"
Lake Eyre from the air
Want to see the sights and need a plane? Ring the pub.
The airport was flash, by bush standards, and busy — a neat strip of tarmac; an adjacent dirt car-park full of four-by-fours and tourist buses. It had a tidy demountable with a flushing toilet — complete with the soundtrack of several small aircraft buzzing around and overhead.
Planes at Marree airport. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Cars parked at Marree airport. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Travellers queue at Marree airport. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
In a town this size it came as no surprise Maria's husband is also the go-to pilot-cum-tour guide.
We found Arid Air's Phil van Wegen at the edge of the tarmac, corralling a wild flock of outback nomads on the same pilgrimage as us.
Anticipation emanated from the travellers as they were ushered into their respective fixed-wings, while our troupe packed into a six-seater.
Pilot Phil van Wegen says Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is "the most amazing natural irrigation system that you'll ever see". ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
Within minutes we were airborne.
"The whole region is massive, it all makes you feel insignificant," Phil says, as he pulls the Cessna up to 1500 feet.
We cross the Flinders Ranges on the way to the lake. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
At this altitude it was clear to see the desert dust we endured the day prior, like us, it had driven itself deeper into the interior, riding the nose of a cold front.
While Phil was worried about the imposition for us out-of-towners, the haze possibly improved the view — softening the morning light as it bounced off the colossal dunes, dried claypans, and the striking Flinders Ranges.
Mystery surrounds who created the giant Marree Man. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
Over the Strzelecki Desert, and past the mysterious 'Marree Man', the mulga, spinifex and Mitchell grass soon gave way to an expanse of salt.
The southern reaches of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre will only fill in a once-in-a-lifetime event.
Salt in Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Salt in Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Salt in Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Salt in Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Carl Saville ) Salt in Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Carl Saville ) The dramatic colours of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
"At the moment this whole basin, the Diamantina and the Cooper, has a lot of water in it, so if we get another big rain event next year it could be bigger than this year," Phil says enthusiastically, on approach to the lake's northern section.
Suddenly it seemed as if there were two suns, the earth mirroring the sky.
The sun reflecting off Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
"This is Lake Eyre North," we were informed, "144km in length north to south, 77km east to west," Phil explains.
"The interesting thing is it's capturing approximately six per cent of Australia's run-off water, it's a huge catchment."
"It's a huge dispersal, it's just the most amazing natural irrigation system that you'll ever see."
By Phil's estimation the northern section is around 80 to 85 per cent covered.
Water filling Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Water filling Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Carl Saville ) Water filling Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
Water and sky combine for stunning visual
But despite my asking, he's unwilling to estimate the volume of water within.
At its edge, the head water moves at a "gentle walking pace", we're told, "and probably only around ankle-deep."
In parts the lake will get several metres deep — while also containing the lowest point in mainland Australia –15.2 metres below sea level.
Our Cessna climbs to 2000 feet, an attempt at fielding a broader prospective. Here, you can see the earth's curvature, but you can't see where the enormous body of water ends, and the sky begins.
The only place to see Kati Thanda in its entirety, is from space.

Scientists believe it formed approximately 200 million years ago, a Pangean oasis surrounded by dense forest and wildlife, fed by a monumental dispersal system of braided channels and flood-plains.
Much of the water arriving here has travelled hundreds of kilometres through Channel Country after ravaging western Queensland several months ago.
Water running towards Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) Water running towards Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
"You feel for those guys, there's been a lot of devastation up north because they've been hit so quickly, but you'd hope on the rebound the country's irrigated and going to do well for a while," Phil says.
"We know we're lucky down here, because we get notice of a flood — we get time to get out of the way. They don't get that in western Queensland."
Where 'magic' happens
To the east of Kati Thanda, at the edge of Munga-Thirri–Simpson Desert National Park, is one of the most famous regions in remote Australia, home to some of the biggest pastoral stations in the world.
Trees submerged in floodwater running towards Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
On the sodden banks of the Diamantina, we meet the dry-humoured desert ranger, Don Rowlands.
The environment around him, usually dusty, red, and arid, is now surging with life — rivers are coursing across cracked floodplains, native fish dart through newly formed channels, and thousands of pelicans soar overhead.
Even the air feels more alive.
"We haven't learned yet to eat flies," he jokes "but I'm thinking we should learn soon because there's plenty of them."
Ranger Don Rowlands says seeing the floodwaters bring the area back to life is "just magic". ( ABC News: Carl Saville )
Don's a descendant of the Watti Watti family and a Wangkangurru Yarluyandi Elder who recalls a fun childhood catching yabbies and yellow bellies, golden perch, "by the tonne".
"I've been here all my life, lived here on the river with my family back in the 1940s and 50s, I've been here a long time and used the river for all the resources," he told us, sharing his memories of the "three big floods" — 1950, 1974, and this year.
"Mate, in the water, out on the land — everything comes back to life — that's just how this country is, it's just wonderful to see nature spring out of the ground.
Don Rowlands at Lake Machettie after another flood a few years back. ( Supplied: David Sproule )
"These flood events, it's the same as what my people did thousands of years ago, the reason they had rainmakers and rain dances was to create seasons such as this, to replenish all their resources.
"It's just magic, and I can see my people walking through this country having the time of their life, it just keeps repeating itself and I hope I'm here for many more."
While flooding in Channel Country is common, this event is bigger than usual. ( ABC News: Carl Saville )
The biggest township in the area is Birdsville, a well-known destination for tourists coming by road or air, often for drawcard events like the Big Red Bash.
"Our bar is just 30 metres from the runway," says Ben Fullagar, the Birdsville Hotel's manager, who landed at the pub for a three-month shift 13 years ago.
"In Channel Country floods are pretty normal, this one is just a bit bigger than what we're used to seeing.
"It's a big positive for pastoralists, and it's a huge positive for outback tourism.
Ben Fullagar is the manager at the Birdsville Hotel. ( ABC Western Queensland: Craig Fitzsimmons ) The Birsdsville Hotel in Queensland. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley ) A street in Birdsville, Queensland. ( ABC News: Tom Hartley )
"It's taken a bit to get back into gear since COVID, and situations like this, with this kind of flooding, is a huge positive for the industry."
But at this time of year, he concedes, it is quieter than usual, worried there are misconceptions that Birdsville, and many bush tourism towns, were washed away.
"I mean whoever surveyed Birdsville back in 1800s did a fantastic job, because water has never been into the town, it just goes straight past us and marches straight into the lake," he said.
"I guess the message is, we're open for business. We didn't get our feet wet, the roads are reopening very quickly, far quicker than anticipated, and there's no better year to see the lake and the region than this year."
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