
Food and freedom: exhibition charts radical history of gardening in Britain
'B eing able to grow your own food is one of the most radical ways that you can express your freedom, your sovereignty, your liberation,' says Valerie Goode, the founder and chief executive of the Coco Collective, a Black-led community gardening organisation in south London.
'When you leave your food production in the hands of other people, you are leaving your health, your wellbeing, your sense of identity … in the hands of other people. When we reclaim our food, we reclaim our power.'
The collective, founded four years ago to cultivate a 1,200-sq-metre plot of waste ground in Lewisham, is open to all but brings together members of the African diaspora 'to heal and also to learn about our history through the soil'. A Coco Collective gardening session led by Goode (centre). Photograph: Andy Hall/The Guardian
Many of those who volunteer in the garden 'are only maybe one or two generations from people that would have worked the land,' says Goode, 'and our ancestors before that knew nothing other than being on the land.' In its own way, she says, the collective is 'radical … because we honour Mother Earth and [recognise that] we are intrinsically connected'.
It's a bold and inspiring vision – but not necessarily one you would expect to find in a library. And yet the work of the collective is central to a new exhibition at the British Library in London, which explores and celebrates the social and frequently political history of cultivation, plant acquisition and land use throughout British history.
Radicalism is not a term one would always associate with British gardens, but who controls land, who works it and the crops they grow there have always been contested questions, as the exhibition illustrates. Before gardening was a hobby, it was a lifeline – or as a member of Coco Collective puts it in one of the short films displayed as part of the exhibition: 'We've been growing longer than we've been writing books.' Part of the exhibition at the British Library. Photograph: The British Library
'Gardening is much more than the nation's favourite pastime, and we think that it has quite a fascinating and surprising history,' said Maddy Smith, the library's curator of printed heritage collections 1601-1900, and lead curator of the exhibition.
The library had previously held exhibitions looking at 'the grander aspects of gardens', she said, but 'we felt that gardening is something that is enjoyed by a lot of different people, and we wanted to reflect that in the objects and the stories that we told.'
Among the items on display from the library's collection are an 11th-century illuminated guide to herbal remedies – the only such work to survive from Anglo-Saxon England – and Profitable Instructions of Kitchin Gardens, a book written by the aptly named Richard Gardiner of Shrewsbury, to teach his community how to grow vegetables after a series of disastrous harvests in the 1590s.
Common land, once shared by rural communities, had been subject to enclosures – transferring it into private ownership – since England's population plummeted during the plague pandemic of 1348, but it often led to social unrest and revolt. A map from 1791 of the village of Bow Brickhill in Buckinghamshire shows how the land had been carved up between various gentlemen (and some women), with a number of chunks allocated to 'the Rector'. A small outlying patch is 'the Poor's Allotment'. 'We honour Mother Earth and [recognise that] we are intrinsically connected': a Coco Collective gardening session. Photograph: Andy Hall/The Guardian
'People have had to fight for the right to garden over the centuries, and against efforts to privatise and enclose land,' said Smith, 'and we wanted to chart that fight.' As well as documents from the time of the Diggers and Levellers, 17th-century movements demanding land reform, 'we have [material about] gardeners in Levenshulme, near Manchester, planting cabbages as an act of protest.' The Levenshulme land grabbers, as they were nicknamed in 1906, claimed they were cultivating six acres of unfenced church land 'for the benefit of the unemployed'.
British gardens have never been purely functional or decorative spaces, as this exhibition illustrates. The early nineteenth century craze for orchids – beautifully illustrated in books from the time – decimated the ecosystems from which they were taken. The Royal Navy's lust for New Zealand flax led it to kidnap two Māori chiefs in 1788 and order them to teach them how to cultivate it (the men refused, not least because this, to them, was women's work).
Even a beautifully illustrated plan of Capability Brown's lawns at Blenheim Palace dating to 1771 is presented in the context of the grass monoculture it helped inspire in the British landscape. It is displayed alongside an irreverent modern poster by the artist Sam Wallman that decries lawns as 'a symbol of control, dominance and status'. 'Hoes over mows,' it reads.
Unearthed: The Power of Gardening is at the British Library until 10 August
Hashtags

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


BBC News
5 hours ago
- BBC News
Did Welsh Rarebit start out as a joke by the English?
It's a beloved national dish of Wales and is found on restaurant menus across the country, but did Welsh rarebit actually start life as a joke played by the English?Toasted bread smothered in a rich, cheesy sauce - what's not to love? But the origin stories of this nostalgic comfort food are as varied as the recipes you can use to make credit poor farmers using a clever substitute for meat while others think English pubs coined the name as a joke, mocking the Welsh for not affording real which of these cheesy tales cuts the mustard? Welsh food historian and author Carwyn Graves said rarebit was "clearly associated with cultural and ethnic Welshness", with cheese being a vital part of European diets for a long time, especially in regions like Wales, where the dairy industry the Middle Ages, before refrigeration, cheese and butter were essential for preserving milk from the spring and summer for use during the colder was also a vital source of protein for poorer communities, particularly in areas like Wales and the Alps, where meat was scarce. In Wales, melted or roasted cheese became popular across all social classes, eventually evolving into Welsh 1536 Act of Union, incorporating Wales into England, saw Welsh migrants bringing melted cheese dishes to English Graves said the English saw it as an ethnic curiosity, even joking about 16th Century tale sees Saint Peter trick Welshmen with the call caws bobi - Welsh for roasted cheese - which he said reflected the dish's cultural ties to name Welsh rarebit appeared much later, with early English cookbooks, such as Hannah Glasse's in 1747, using terms including Welsh rabbit and Scotch rabbit for similar cheese on toast Mr Graves said there was no historical evidence linking the name to actual rabbits and he said the theory that poor people couldn't afford rabbit meat and used cheese instead was unproven. Kacie, from The Rare Welsh Bit food blog said Welsh rarebit, also known as Welsh rabbit, originated in the 1500s as a popular dish among Welsh working-class families who couldn't afford meat like rabbit, using cheese on toast as a substitute. According to her, the dish was first recorded in 1725 and over time, the name shifted from Welsh rabbit to Welsh rarebit, possibly to move away "from patronising connotations associated with the nature of the dish as a poor man's supper". Katrina from Real Girls Travel explained "nobody's quite sure how the name came about", but it's generally believed "Welsh rarebit" likely began as a joke about the poor people of south Wales, who were thought to live on rabbit and ale. She added that many mistakenly think Welsh rarebit contains rabbit because the dish was originally called "Welsh rabbit" in 1725. According to Katrina, the name probably changed because, in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, the English often gave humorous or fanciful names to regional foods, making the change "an attempt to make it a more fitting dish"."I personally think it was a language barrier or a strong Welsh accent that gave the dish its name," she added. In Sarah Fritsche's blog the Cheese Professor, she explained the word "Welsh" was used as an insult in 1700s Britain, similar to how "welch" functioned as a pejorative. According to Ms Fritsche, "rabbit" was used humorously because only the wealthy could afford real rabbit, making the cheesy toast a "poor person's substitute".She added "rarebit" was a corruption of "rabbit" and is unique to this dish, first appearing as "rare bit". Rose Geraedts, originally from the Netherlands, has lived in Brecon, Powys, for 20 years and runs the International Welsh Rarebit opened the business eight years ago after noticing cafes and pubs in the area were not serving it, despite high demand from tourists. "I thought it was crazy that a national dish wasn't on the menu. I think many saw it as old-fashioned," she took over a disused Victorian school building, renovated it and made Welsh rarebit the star of the show."It seemed mad not to do it - but a lot of people think I'm nuts," she cafe now offers six varieties and Ms Geraedts said customers loved the dish's rich, comforting flavour, seasoned with cayenne pepper, nutmeg, paprika and Worcestershire sauce. Ms Geraedts said she had welcomed visitors from around the world, from Australia to America, and even served celebrities including Jonathan Ross and rugby legend Gareth added: "People love it because it's nostalgic. They remember their mother or grandmother making it."It's much more than just dry cheese on toast."Ms Geraedts believes rarebit became popular due to Wales' connection to cheese-making, despite its name being a sarcastic "patronising" English joke. University lecturer, dietician, cook and food writer Beca Lyne-Pirkis said she first learned to make Welsh rarebit with her grandparents so it brings back "nostalgic memories".The 43-year-old, from Cardiff, said it was a great first dish to learn as it's "more complicated than cheese on toast" but not too Lyne-Pirkis said she has two versions - a rich, roux-based recipe with cheddar, beer, mustard and Worcestershire sauce and a quicker one mixing egg, cheese, and seasoning to spread on toast. The dish stayed with her through her university years and is now a favourite with her children."I fell in love with the flavour," she said."When I eat it I get the nostalgic childhood feeling as I have so many fond memories of eating it. That's where my love of food came from."Whatever the roots, Ms Lyne-Pirkis said rarebit was now a timeless, adaptable national dish rooted in family stories and experimentation."Every recipe has its own story, which helps keep the recipe alive."


The Guardian
5 hours ago
- The Guardian
Killer sudoku 973
Click here to access the print version. Normal sudoku rules apply, except the numbers in the cells contained within dotted lines add up to the figures in the corner. No number can be repeated within each shape formed by dotted lines. To see the completed puzzle, buy the next issue of the Guardian (for puzzles published Monday to Thursday). Solutions to Friday and Saturday puzzles are given in either Saturday's or Monday's edition.


The Guardian
5 hours ago
- The Guardian
Sudoku 6,924 expert
Click here to access the print version. Fill the grid so that every row, every column and every 3x3 box contains the numbers 1 to 9. To see the completed puzzle, buy the next issue of the Guardian (for puzzles published Monday to Thursday). Solutions to Friday and Saturday puzzles are given in either Saturday's or Monday's edition.