
The secret diary of . . . Christopher Luxon in China
MONDAY
"Where are your slippers?" Amanda said. "You'll need your slippers."
Much is at fate for the destiny and wellbeing of New Zealand as I head to China this week to deliver a set of deliverables.
"I can't find your slippers," she said.
Other great helmsmen from history must have felt the same excitement and sense of purpose as they prepared to carry the hopes of their people and sit down to make sure they get share of mind.
"Your feet get so cold in air-conditioned hotel rooms," she said.
But it's more than the welfare of Kiwis that is at stake. These talks in China are held at a delicately poised time of increased global volatility and I have an important voice as world leaders iron out a phased launch within a wider strategy.
"If you won't help, then suit yourself," she said.
The DPS arrived. It was time to go. The great tides of history wait for no man.
TUESDAY
It's a very long flight to China but that allowed an opportunity to get to know the trade delegates from Zespri, Fonterra, and Supercheap Auto which stocks a variety of car batteries, air filters, coolants and more.
Air New Zealand CEO Greg Foran was also among the delegation.
"Not what it used to be, is it," I said.
"Sorry?"
"The airline. It used to be one of the world's great airlines. I led it into an era of unprecedented success but the bottom seems to have fallen out since I left office."
"None of that is true," he said, and left to use the bathroom. I never saw him again.
WEDNESDAY
We raced off out of the blocks with meetings to raise awareness of the New Zealand tourism offering in the Chinese market, and a visit to a cosmetics factory even to discuss regulatory barriers of skincare products.
You don't want to boil the ocean by alphabetising our client contact information but at the same time you want to reach out and come away with important learnings.
I was on my feet all day. They hurt and I think I might have chilblains.
THURSDAY
To the Langham Hotel for a Fonterra event promoting grass-fed dairy where attendees were served milk in Champagne flutes.
And then the Peninsula Hotel, to oversee the announcement of a new flight route between China and South America, stopping in Auckland.
After that, The Do Drop Inn where reps from Supercheap Auto wowed Chinese officials with budget deals on the Tridon Coolant Temperature Sensor, Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter and the Bissell Spot Clean Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner.
Our tiger team really moved the needle on that one.
But it was misery to go back to the hotel. They keep the air-con on high and I just could not get my feet warm.
FRIDAY
A face-to-face with President Xi in Beijing — my first since China sent a strike force into the Tasman Sea without warning.
I said to him, 'We have huge areas of co-operation that can advance the wealth of both countries, but we also have to acknowledge that we have differences."
He seemed to be playing Solitaire on his phone, but he gave me his full attention, and asked, "What differences?"
I thought of the possible bonanza in sales of meat and kiwifruit.
I thought of the benefits of the visit to the skincare event and the excitement caused by good deals on motor oil provided by Supercheap Auto.
Mainly I thought of how my feet were frozen blocks of ice, and I said, "Nothing really. It's all good. Let's lean into our moving parts and build on our core competency!"
The DPS arrived. It was time to go. They had found me a pair of slippers.
By Steve Braunias
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Newsroom
8 hours ago
- Newsroom
Luxon's hot minute in the heart of the dragon
It's close to midnight as the Prime Minister swaggers down the stairs of the Airforce 757. Waiting on the tarmac next to the red carpet is the deputy mayor of Shanghai, with his ambassador to China and China's ambassador to New Zealand. Christopher Luxon needn't worry, the welcomes will get grander as the trip progresses. It's a muggy Shanghai night; Luxon doesn't linger. Into his car and the motorcade shifts into gear. His first official visit to one of the world's most consequential countries has begun. Any overseas trip takes preparation, but with China the stakes are high and the climate is … complex. Pre-trip briefings are par for the course. A security briefing from the country's spy agencies is not. Add to the growing 'to do' list: burner phone, burner computer, burner SIM, no wifi, and keep your tech and sensitive belongings on you at all times – just a suggestion, though. Day 1: Deals, deals, deals The sun rises on a 35C day in Shanghai and the dozen-strong media group bustles into the two waiting vans – or 'coasters' – to travel from their very nice hotel to the even nicer hotel where the PM and business leaders are staying. It's time for the first event of the trip: a group photo. The photographers move into position on the scorching concrete balcony high above the city, with a view out over the Bund River and the Shanghai skyline. Prep be damned. When the crowd arrives they mill around, confused. 'Shuffle left', the photographer says, 'now right, more people on that side. And smile!' It's not the last time the group will perform this awkward dance. The official party posing on Shanghai's Bund on morning one. Photo: Pool The selfies done, the group moves into a room with a trio of economics experts. They have impressive CVs and even more impressive TedTalk-esque presentation skills. They talk through global uncertainty caused by toxic tariffs, low consumer and business confidence, and the opportunities for businesses and investors presented by these challenges. The first question in the Q&A session goes to the Prime Minister. He wants to know what's behind the downturn in China's real estate market. You can take the man out of New Zealand, but you can't take the property market obsession out of the man. Ahead of the trip, Luxon names tourism and education as his two priority areas. And true to his word, the first engagement with guts is with China travel booking platform Ctrip ( After the obligatory group photo (shuffle, shuffle, switch), CTrip chief executive Jane Sun leads Luxon to an interactive wall that does little to dispel the west's dystopian future view of China's approach to tech. An eerie AI-generated female voice overlays interactive visualisations bringing to life screeds of visitor data gathered by the booking platform. The Minority Report sheen is broken by one of the data points on the digital wall. Most popular restaurant for Chinese travellers in New Zealand: Ferg Burger. The CTrip data wall. Photo: Supplied Luxon is ushered into a room to record a promotional video. The door is closed behind him. Media move to an open-air balcony to set up for the first of what will be three hot and sweaty press conferences on the trip. The questioning is dominated by visa settings for Chinese travellers. It won't be the last time that topic rears its head on the trip. The delegation piles back into the waiting vehicles – shiny black sedans with flags for ministers, coasters for officials, business heads and media. It's time to pump up the primary sector at an event showcasing grass-fed dairy at the Langham Hotel. Champagne glasses half-full of Fonterra milk sit on the tables around the room. Beside them are miniature flags from the two countries. One delegation member says the milk actually tastes better out of a champagne glass. Maybe it'll catch on back home. Champagne tastes for NZ dairy. Photo: Laura Walters In any country – but especially China – everyone wants a piece of political leaders. Luxon's presence – even if it's a 15-minute whip around – helps grease the wheels. If an unrelenting smile and a whole lot of selfies is what it takes to go for growth, then Luxon is willing. The crew shuffles back into the cars and off to New Zealand Central, where the PM announces a change that will allow kiwi cosmetic brands to export to China. There's the handshakes, the signing, and then the sampling. Luxon shifts into a past persona: Unilever sales mode. This look takes a lot of work, he says, gesturing at his face. But rather than reaching for the antipodes eye cream to put on his own face, he wrangles an unwilling member of the travelling media. Luxon does eventually agree to sample the product himself. It's a day before the PM stops commenting on the journalist's eyes. Back to the PM's hotel for another business announcement, which turns out to be one of the most significant (and unexpected) deals of the trip. The long-talked about Southern Link between China and South America, via Auckland, will be in place by the end of the year. State-owned China Eastern is particularly stoked to announce one of its government's controversial Belt and Road Initiative expansionist projects. The PM says NZ doesn't have any Belt and Road projects, and China knows that. Do they? A warning at Yu Yuan gardens. Photo: Tim Murphy Vibe switch. Luxon has swapped blue suit for blue polo (adorned with a Silver Fern) but without his name and title on it, as in the past. Until now, Luxon has kept up with the bustling metropolis of Shanghai. Now, he's transported to ancient China, walking past the dragon statues and jade gardens of Yu Yuan Gardens with writer Mang Boyong. Mang studied at Waikato University and is a best-seller. Their conversation looks riveting, but no-one can get close enough to hear, as visitors swarm around the PM. Who is this man being followed by cameras and security? A metal plaque sits beside some concrete steps: Caution! Slippery Slope. Seems appropriate. Day 2: Sweating it in Shanghai Luxon starts the day with a visit to Fudan University. After being greeted by a robot, the PM makes his way to the technology gallery, where students are waiting. Following the formal (read: dry) opening remarks, the PM has a Q&A session with the students. One asks about the use of technology and AI to better deliver healthcare – especially to rural and isolated communities. The PM says he believes AI can be used to better connect people with services. For example, if you're a young mother with two kids, it can help you understand 'the entitlements that you're entitled to'. The political journalists in the room exchange glances. Last time the PM spoke about being entitled to entitlements he ended up giving back taxpayer money. One Kiwi student learning Mandarin at Fudan asks about the importance of learning languages to build connections and understanding. Luxon responds: 'You can see we send our brightest students overseas.' Ouch. The PM talks about his quest to learn Mandarin in the '90s. He later divulges he hired a teacher to come to his office every Monday morning at 7am. The pursuit didn't last long, because there was no-one to practise with in Wellington. Perhaps he needed to get out of his bubble. From Fudan, Luxon is whisked away to meet the Shanghai Party Secretary Chen Jining. It's his first political meeting of the trip and it's held in a big room. This particular room is described by one member of the media delegation as 'one of the most well-lit rooms in communist party history'. All the rooms in China are big and bright. Most of the space isn't used. It feels like a big flex. After his meeting, Luxon walks outside to conduct probably the hottest press conference in history. Not in terms of the spicy questions, or the Prime Minister's hot takes, but thanks to the literal temperature, which rises past 35C (feeling more like 40C on the concrete). Sweat is soon drenching everyone there. Well, almost everyone. As Luxon Lore goes, the PM doesn't sweat. But after 20 minutes in the beating sun, beads are forming on his upper-lip. Luxon mentions the journalist's eyes again, commenting on their softness. It starts to feel uncomfortable – the joke and the heat. The motorcade swings by NZ Central to give the PM what he likes to call a bit of 'executive time'. Ostensibly it's for catching up on any reading or emails, but in this instance it's likely a chance to put his feet up, have a bite of lunch and change. Welcome to Beijing This time the welcome has military personnel lining the red carpet on the tarmac. And China's Customs Minister. Customs as in protocol? one person asks. No. Customs, as in please make sure New Zealand milk keeps flowing over the border. There's enough time to check in and shower (finally) ahead of a Matariki reception held at the New Zealand Embassy on Thursday evening. In some respects, Luxon is unlucky in his timing of the trip, between the Matariki holiday and Iran, Israel and maybe the US threatening an all-out war, the attention of the masses is elsewhere. But China watchers always be watching. Between the drinks and nibbles, Te Kapa Haka o Ngāti Whakaue impresses with a breathtaking rendition of Pōkarekare Ana, a series of waiata and the crowd-pleasing Ka Mate. Following the PM's speech, Te Matatini-winning kapa haka group supports him with a waiata while Luxon stands with them. Later, Whakaata Māori asks Luxon how he feels being invited to stand with the kapa. Honoured, he says. Big day with the big names in Beijing If the first two days of the trip are hectic, the final day is high-stakes. The media pack makes its way to the Grand Hall of the People situated in the heart of Xi Jinping's seat of power. The rooms, halls and stairways inside G-Hop – as the acronym-loving foreign affairs officials say – puts the grandness of China's other very big rooms to shame. Gold-gilded marble, unfathomably large murals displaying traditional Chinese art, vases big enough for a grown adult to get inside, and yellow velvet curtains. The vast halls are lit by high-wattage bulbs in a series of chandeliers. The people walking through the rooms look like specks; utterly exposed. Travelling minister Mark Mitchell clocks the under-utilised space, and asks if he can rent a corner. It's hard to imagine the police minister getting sign-off on setting up a co-working space in CCP territory. First meeting of the day is with Zhao Leji, the chairman of China's parliamentary assembly. Chinese media includes a state archivist – the film will be kept for 100 years, he says. One of the cameramen has an earpiece that looks more security than broadcaster. On the carpet are two red stickers to indicate where Luxon and Zhao should stand. A dot for Luxon and star for Zhao. To their backs are flags from the respective countries, both crafted from paper and arranged into perfect cones. The press pack is ushered out and then it's a waiting game until Luxon's meeting with Xi. Chinese officials allow liberal media access. Photos, videos, voice recordings – it's all on the table. All 12 travelling media are granted access to the all-important Xi meeting, making the earlier bunfight over who would get the coveted spots wholly redundant. Luxon rounds the corner, flanked by his entourage. When he gets to the door, he pauses, takes a breath, pastes a smile on his face and walks into the room. A performer waiting in the wings, taking that steadying breath and putting on their persona, before stepping on the stage. Luxon with Xi. Photo: Pool The opening remarks start. Xi talks about 'ups and downs'. Luxon refers to global turmoil, calls on China to be a consistent, constructive global force. The PM shows he too can go one-for-one with one of the world's most powerful men. And then they leave, with both sides believing the relationship is 'in good heart'. Just like that, it's time to switch back to trade mode. Off to a posh department store to push kiwifruit. Think Harrods, but with a higher turnover. Then he's on a rooftop, supporting the launch of Tourism New Zealand's 100% Pure campaign. Sounds familiar. Just seven hours before his flight out, Luxon is back at China's Great Hall. And, finally, he receives the pomp and ceremony of a full military welcome. When the marching and anthems are done, Luxon and his counterpart Premier Li Qiang follow the strips of red carpet to inspect the troops. Luxon fights every instinct to not smile, say hello and shake a gun-wielding hand. Instead, a respectful nod. The PM joins the Premier for a banquet dinner. Officials and the business crew stay. The media coasters head off. Without the PM's motorcade the vans move at a crawl along China's boulevard of power. Next to the Great Hall lies Tiananmen Square. There are conspicuous security cameras throughout Beijing, but the clusters around the site of historic bloodshed are something else. No journalists allowed. Dinner has finished and the Prime Minister is running an hour early for his final press conference of the trip. Media hustle out of the local Peking Duck restaurant and move to the embassy to set up. As the sun goes down, journalists spend 25 minutes trying (mostly in vain) to squeeze details of the day's meetings out of the Prime Minister. 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