The lesser-known tropical island that's perfect for a winter getaway

Independent

01-03-2025

The aroma of freshly baked bread holds a universal allure, transcending geographical boundaries.
Seeking shelter from an equatorial downpour, I found myself in a quaint bakery in a Principe fishing village, captivated by the sight of flames dancing within a large clay oven.
As luck would have it, my arrival coincides with the serving of the day's first batch. Tearing into the steaming dough, I partake in a timeless pleasure enjoyed for centuries.
Breaking bread is one of the simple joys that make this remote island in the Gulf of Guinea so special.
Together with Sao Tome, it forms one of West Africa 's smallest nations. More tranquil and relaxed than the mainland, it resembles a Caribbean escape, boasting equally stunning sandy, unspoiled beaches.
Yet, unlike popular winter sun destinations, Principe remains largely undiscovered.
There are no major chains, no advertising billboards, and only a few basic shops in the sleepy main town of Santo António.
Built during Portuguese colonisation, when the islands served as a base for trading slaves, the ruins of sugar cane and cocoa plantations have since been reclaimed by the jungle.
Residents have admirably chosen to reject palm oil cultivation projects in favour of ecotourism, guided by the pioneering sustainable tourism enterprise HBD, which manages three properties on Principe and recently acquired the only other hotel in operation.
The backstory for HBD (Here Be Dragons) is an unusual one.
Making history by being the first African to enter space in 2002, entrepreneur Mark Shuttleworth had an epiphany while staring down at our tiny blue planet. By the time he'd landed back on Earth, he was determined to do whatever he could to protect it.
Initially, he looked at Principe as a private island investment but soon realised the population – the true custodians of the wild environment – would benefit from tourism. His intention was to create jobs by opening the destination up to the rest of the world, without disrupting the natural beauty at its core.
Set on a remote peninsula at the northern tip of the island, Bom Bom, a former fishing lodge, was the first hotel to open. A smart but unassuming collection of bungalows with two beachfronts – for sunset and sunrise – it's since achieved accidental cult status.
Closed for three years since the pandemic, it's recently reopened and I'm one of the first guests.
Mapped: Principe
By 6am, it's already light as I walk along my empty beachfront. Boys in wooden pirogue boats are silhouetted on the distant horizon.
Western reef herons forage along the shoreline, while brightly plumed malachite kingfishers add flashes of colour to the tangle of emerald forest which covers most of the island. But even their shimmering turquoise wings aren't a match for the rich jade hues of an ocean so clear, I can see 15 metres to the bottom.
Although there have been several enhancements to Bom Bom, including a recently opened restaurant and a beach bar in the pipeline, growth is still refreshingly slow. Even getting here is a journey, requiring a flight via Lisbon and Sao Tome.
But distance and difficulty are in part responsible for preserving this time-frozen patch of paradise.
Here are five reasons why it's worth making the effort:
1. Pristine rainforests – In 2012, thanks partly to the efforts of HBD and rallying from members of the local community, the entire island and its islets were declared a UNESCO World Biosphere. More than half of the mountainous volcanic island is a protected natural park, home to a high number of endemic species living in a rainforest estimated to be 31 million years old.
2. Rich marine life – Waters fringing the island are also teeming with marine creatures. Humpback whales can be seen between July and October, while five species of turtles – loggerhead, olive ridley, green, hawksbill and leatherback – nest on beaches from November to March.
3. Delicious chocolate – During the years of Portuguese rule, a cocoa industry thrived on the island. HBD has revived production on a small scale at heritage property Roca Sundy, a former plantation open to guests. A small shop sells edible and cosmetic products.
4. Heavenly hiking – Beyond the beach, the mountainous interior is well suited to hikes. One of the most popular routes is to the top of Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), one of several phonolitic towers.
5. A model for tourism – HBD is in the process of launching a new Natural Dividend project which will financially reward islanders for their efforts in protecting ecosystems and biodiversity. Mark Shuttleworth hopes the model can one day be replicated across Africa.
How to do it