Discover the rural charms of Sabah's cool district, Tambunan

The Star

a day ago

Often, the mention of Sabah conjures up the image of its natural wonders. Rightfully so, as the Land Below The Wind does boast a wide array of flora and fauna.
Typically, tourists head straight to Kundasang in the Ranau district for its temperate climate and for Mount Kinabalu – to catch a view of the looming mountain, if not to scale the peak.
Roughly 60km from the said district is one that tourists, especially those from out of state, might have never considered visiting: Tambunan.
While often overshadowed by its 'cooler' neighbour, Tambunan has no trouble holding its own when it comes to nature and culture. It may be set on a lower elevation than Kundasang, but it still boasts colder weather compared to the lowlands, making it a cool escape from the tropical heat.
This year, the spotlight shines on Tambunan as it plays host to Sabah's annual Harvest Festival or Kaamatan. A celebration of bountiful harvest, Kaamatan is also a time when both locals and tourists can fully appreciate the state's melting pots of culture.
The Dusun people of Tambunan celebrate Kaamatan every May. — FIFY JOSEPH/Wikimedia Commons
As is the norm, the districts in Sabah take turn to host the festival each year. The host's duties include holding the Kaamatan launch on May 1, marking the start of the month-long festivities throughout Sabah and the Federal Territory of Labuan. The grand finale is then held on May 30 and 31 at Hongkod Koisaan KDCA in Penampang.
Themed 'Kaamatan For All', or 'Kaamatan Montok Toinsanan' in the Kadazandusun language, this year's festival was launched at Pisompuruan Square, in the Tambunan district's eponymous town.
It may be too late to join in the Kaamatan festivities this year (mark your calendar for next May!), but anytime is a good time to discover the rural charms of Sabah. So, why not hop on a plane and kickstart your Sabahan adventure in Tambunan?
Locals and tourists alike are mesmerised by the musical sound of Tambunan's Batu Gong. — Batu Gong/Facebook
Pisompuruan Square
Located in the Tambunan town, Pisompuruan Square alternatively goes by Tamu Ground, due to the tamu (market) that's held weekly here.
Every Thursday, the square comes alive with vendors selling everything from fresh produce to traditional delicacies. You can get local products here, in turn helping support the local community.
Walking around the square, you might notice a plaque stating Tugu Tambunan Memorial. It marks an area where the Tambunan Unity Stone stands – though perhaps more eye-catching are the statues of two warriors right next to it.
The Unity Stone marks the unification of the Gombunan and Tamadon tribes, and the warriors immortalised here were of the said tribes.
Legend has it that after forming an alliance with each other, the two tribes christened their shared settlement with an amalgamation of their tribe names. Thus, the birth of Tambunan – 'Tam' from Tamadon and 'bunan' from Gombunan.
Since the Kaamatan launch was held at Pisompuruan Square, let's use this as the point of reference for how far the other suggested attractions are from the town.
Batu Gong emits sounds like a traditional gong when struck. — Filepic
Batu Gong
Also known as Turu Miadi (Seven Siblings), Batu Gong is one of nature's most unique offerings. Typically when a rock is struck, it makes a dull thud. Not this one – this rock resonates same as a gong would.
Gong is a traditional musical instrument made of brass or bronze, hence the Batu Gong or 'gong rock' moniker.
According to the information found at the site housing the unique rock, it was excavated during a river straightening project at Sungai Pegalan in 1995.
But its musical disposition was only discovered rather by accident not long after, by a group of children enjoying a dip in the river. It was while playing on the rock that they noted the unexpected sound it made.
The villagers of Kampung Solibog decided to relocate the rock into a hut in order to protect and preserve it. Eventually, it became a tourist attraction in the village.
Due to its growing popularity, it underwent another relocation in 2022. This time it was to a bigger riverside site that can welcome more visitors.
The new site, called Ekopelancongan Nagas Komuniti Kg Solibog (Batu Gong), is accessible via a roughly 10-minute car ride from town.
Rafflesia pricei is the species commonly found at Tambunan's Rafflesia Information Centre. — Sabah Forestry Department/Facebook
Rafflesia Information Centre
There is probably no parasitic plant more revered than the stinking corpse lily – better known as rafflesia.
Recognised as the world's largest flowering plant, it is found only in South-East Asia. Sabah is home to three species, two of which are rare and endemic to the state.
Rafflesia tengku-adlinii and Rafflesia keithii are the harder species to come by, although the latter has been spotted at the Rafflesia Information Centre, which is located about half an hour by car from town. The more commonly found species at this centre is Rafflesia pricei.
With rafflesia being the state's official flower, the Sabah Forestry Department naturally keeps a close eye on it and posts regular updates on social media when it is in bloom.
This is especially helpful to avoid disappointment for anyone hoping to witness the massive flower in person, since it does have a relatively short blooming period – lasting only around five days.
This centre is perfect if you're not keen on trekking deep into the wilderness. There is already an established trail here, some parts in concrete, making the 20-minute trek to see the blooming flowers relatively easier.
Fun fact: Despite rafflesias' notoriety as a foul-smelling plant, not all species actually emit the offensive stench. Rafflesia pricei is among these fairly odourless species. That's another plus point for visiting the centre!
Kampung Tikolod is great for water outings, as it is home to Kirongulad Waterfall and Sungai Tikolod. — Sabah Tourism Board website
Kirongulad Waterfall
Now, if you are the type who's willing to trek deep – very deep – into the jungle, a refreshing reward awaits you. It comes in the form of a cascading body of water that will make your hours-long journey worth every second.
The trip to Kirongulad Waterfall kicks off from Kampung Tikolod, a village about half an hour away from town.
From the village, a 3km stretch of dirt road traversable by four-wheel drives will take you to the trek's starting point. This is where the real adventure begins. The almost 5km trek from here will even involve walking through padi fields and plenty of wading through streams. Be prepared to get wet long before reaching the waterfall.
Despite its more impressive height of 30m, Kirongulad Waterfall doesn't get as much mention as Mahua Waterfall, the 17m-tall cascade that takes its name from the Tambunan village it's located in. This likely stems from accessibility, since Mahua doesn't take a strenuous journey to reach.
If you still want to experience the cool waters of Kampung Tikolod but minus the arduous trek, then head to Kintup Recreation Park (TRK). Here you can swim in Sungai Tikolod or try the 'fish spa', where tiny fish will nibble ticklishly on your soaking feet.
The three-deck Sinurambi Tambunan offers panoramic views of Tambunan. — Filepic
Sinurambi Tambunan
Set atop Trig Hill at 877m above sea level is the viewing point, Sinurambi Tambunan. Launched in conjunction with Visit Tambunan Year 2017, the hilltop attraction is less than 30 minutes away from town.
It features an interesting shape that takes inspiration from wakid , the traditional bamboo basket used by the Dusun people. The three stacked decks incorporated into the design of the 14m-high tower are meant to accommodate visitors' varying degrees of comfort with height.
The first deck is suitable for those who are comfortable being not more than 3m off the ground. The second deck, at 6m, offers better view for those who can handle the height. But many may still prefer the top deck, as it does offer the best vantage point with its height of 9.15m.
You can climb this tower to get a sweeping view of not only Tambunan but also Mount Kinabalu, which can be admired from the viewing point on clear days.