Beyond the Big Four: 8 Unexplored Fashion Capitals on the Rise

Forbes

31-03-2025

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA JULY 2: Models walking for the fashion designer Laduma Ngxolo of label ... More MaXhosa by Laduma waits backstage before a show at South Africa Menswear week 2015 on July 2, 2015 in Cape Town, South Africa. The second edition of SAMW featured designers from South Africa and around Africa showing spring and summer collections during the 3-day event. The label celebrates the rich heritage of the Xhosa culture using traditional Xhosa motifs and patterns for their range of knitted clothing. (Photo by Per-)
For anyone who follows the fashion show calendar, it becomes quickly evident how the industry spins on an axis that tilts between New York, Paris, Milan and London. Considering the retail and media landscape, this may not come as a surprise; but more and more more nascent markets are being recognized as serious competitors in the marketplace. From Scandinavian streetwear to African artistry, these eight cities are showing the fashion world has no borders.
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Buenos Aires is a city built on a confluence of culture through its mix of indigenous, Spanish, and Italian populations. With its European architecture, rich textile history and cultural touchstones like the gaucho, there is plenty of inspiration for designers to pull from. As Ryan Volatile, longtime ex-pat in Buenos Aires and founder of Fields Outfitting, notes, 'The most innovative brands find ways to combine all of those influences with a South American flair for something that is unique and refreshing.'
Cape Town, South Africa
While South Africa Fashion Week may not be as well-known as its European equivalents, there is a robust market that's been attracting international recognition over the years. In fact, it's been recognized as an emerging fashion capital by both African Fashion International and the Global Language Monitor. What sets Cape Town apart from similar markets is its ability to turn menswear classics on its head. One such designer is Chu Suwannapha of Chulaap, a Cape Town-based brand, cleverly layers bold African prints to highlight the heritage of the region while also adhering to classic menswear cuts.
Helsinki, Finland
Helsinki has long been in the shadow of its Scandinavian cousins, like Copenhagen, but has gained traction over the years for the country's approach to design. Martta Louekari, communication director & founder of Helsinki-based consultancy company Juni, makes a connection between Finns' fashion and their national identity. 'Our fashion is known for its conceptual approach, where designers often experiment developing their own materials and prints. Rooted in the country's values such as equality, sustainability and craftsmanship, the designs reflect the innovative spirit.' Brands like Latimmier, whose founder Ervin Latimer also a professor at the acclaimed Aalto University, is a prime example of this philosophy. The brand often plays with the idea of masculinity and traditional menswear through redefining silhouettes and focusing on sustainability and storytelling as design principles.
India
As a whole, India is set to become a major economic player in the next few years. Metropolitan areas such as Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore all host their own fashion weeks, showing the thriving fashion industry that knits together the various states of the subcontinent. The beauty of the Indian market is its celebration of its vast textile history with modern brands like Harago and Hindostan Archive using heritage as a throughline for their modern designs.
MUMBAI, INDIA - MARCH 29: Models walk the runway for ASOS at Lakmé Fashion Week 2025 on March 29, ... More 2025 in Mumbai, India. (Photo by)
Jakarta, Indonesia
Indonesia is often overlooked by its neighbors, Australia, Thailand, and Malaysia, but it's a nation on the rise (in fact, there is so much prospect for this Southeast Asian country that entrepreneurs like Tyler Brûlé will be hosting a leadership conference in its capital in late April). With its influence of both the East and Western markets, as well as a thriving textile industry, Jakarta is primed to be an emerging fashion capital within the next decade, with an emphasis on traditional fabrics, such as batik, from designers like Bateeq or a play on Indonesian tailoring, like Jan Sober.
Lagos, Nigeria
Often overlooked on the world's stage, West Africa has a rich heritage worth exploring. Couple that with Lagos' rapidly growing economy and one will find designers flocking to the Nigerian capital. Brands like Orange Culture, Emmy Kasbit and Lagos Space Program may seem disparate, but there is a throughline between these three Lagos-based brands: expressive patterns, exaggerated silhouettes and a blurred line between gender and tailoring principles.
Seoul, South Korea
With cultural exports like K-pop and beauty products already inundating markets, it is no surprise that South Korean fashion soon would follow. The Seoul menswear industry is a blend of heritage (you will find designers often reinterpret the jeogori, a traditional Korean jacket), streetwear and minimalism. These various sources of inspiration have ultimately become the foundation for a lively and fast-growing industry that's soon set to compete with larger regional players like Tokyo.
SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA - SEPTEMBER 10: Jay Park attends Gucci 2024 F/W women and men collection launch ... More event at Cheongdam-dong Flagship Store in Kangnam-gu on September 10, 2024 in Seoul, South Korea. (Photo by The Chosunilbo JNS/Imazins via Getty Images)
Tbilisi, Georgia
Due to its regional isolation in the Caucasus Mountains, Georgia's industry has long looked inwards, but that has changed in recent years. This is due, in part, to high-profile Georgian designers like Demna Gvasalia leading large fashion houses like Balenciaga and Gucci. Now, it seems, people are starting to take note of this Eurasian capital. Georgian brands, like Aznauri, are opting for an oversized fit and playing with elements of deconstruction to give new perspective to a garments' silhouettes.
Mark Your Calendars
While the Big Four (Paris, New York, Milan and London) aren't going anywhere anytime soon, it might be time to branch out a little and explore the vibrant fashion markets around the globe. You can find a complete list of fashion weeks here.
MUMBAI, INDIA - MARCH 29: A model poses for pictures backstage after walking for Fashion Trust ... More Arabia at Lakmé Fashion Week 2025 on March 29, 2025 in Mumbai, India. (Photo by)