
Don't Tell Dad: ‘It's a class act'
Don't Tell Dad, 10-14 Lonsdale Road, London NW6 6RD. Snacks and small plates £5-£14, large plates £18-£29, desserts £9, wines from £36
Don't Tell Dad in London's Queen's Park is a self-declared neighbourhood restaurant in a knowingly dishevelled neighbourhood. It sits on a part-cobbled, mews-style lane which was once home to stable blocks and very much looks like it. If you want to snoop at the red-rust frontage on Google Street View, however, you can't. It's a private street, through which Google's cars may never pass. Lonsdale Road, once the property of the Church Commissioners, is now owned by a single landlord, Feldberg Capital, which is gently turning it into an ever-so-random-on-purpose leisure destination. Josh Katz's Middle Eastern-influenced grill restaurant Carmel is here, as is the Australian-inspired Milk Beach and an outpost of Pizza Pilgrims, alongside a micro-brewery, a yoga studio, co-working spaces and a macrobiotic deli where they crochet their own fermented sea-vegetables. Perhaps I made the last one up.
This reads like an eye-roll at the tastes of the infuriating, lotus-eating middle classes and the sort of businesses which pander to them. As I'm one of those infuriating people, I'm basically rolling my eyes at myself. Lonsdale Road has a lovely, rackety Copenhagen vibe and I would be thrilled if it were part of my neighbourhood. By day, Don't Tell Dad is a bakery serving brown butter hazelnut croissant, and pear and whisky Danish, by head baker Keren Sternberg, formerly of Layla. By night it is a restaurant serving many other things. It fits in here perfectly.
The restaurant was founded by local Daniel Land, the former banker behind quick-service pasta chain Coco di Mama, and is named in memory of his sister Lesley, who died suddenly not long ago. As a child, Lesley was always good for skulduggery of which their parents should know nothing. She came up with plans and urged her brother not to tell dad. It's a sweet back story to a restaurant of innocent if serious pleasures; the kind only the most puritanical of fathers could find it in themselves to disapprove of. Anywhere which braises oxtail down until it is a sticky mess of uber-gravy-slicked meaty threads, tops a heap of it with dripping-fried breadcrumbs, and then puts all of that on a small crumpet and calls it a snack, is fine by me.
A few years ago, perhaps pre-Covid, a restaurant like this in London would most likely have been found in what my kids call Central and I call the West End. (Sidebar: when did this change? How dare the young people come up with a name which makes so much more sense?) But the gravitational pull of the capital has shifted, from the middle to a little further out. Why drag into town if it can be avoided? It has the feel of somewhere you might stumble into and then out of again. There's an open kitchen, soft lighting, cosy banquettes and booths, and a beautiful tiled floor, all of it picking up the colours from outside, as if bathing you in the glow of a guttering hearth. The orange ducted ceiling is, like the music, low (gentle club beats in the dining room; showtunes by the loos). Try to get a table, rather than a seat at a counter. The curve-backed stools look comfortable, but aren't quite. No worries. An oxtail crumpet will quickly soothe the wriggling.
Head chef Luke Frankie, formerly of Noble Rot and the Drapers Arms, has written a menu I'm going to call Cosmopolitan English: these are dishes which are both rooted very much in the here, but also reference over there. Among the small plates there's an impressively deep-filled crab tart of white and brown meat in a thin, flaky pastry shell, spun through with green herbs, which tastes like something straight out of Jane Grigson's cookbook English Food. But there is also a shuddering cairn of fritto misto which, with its inflated, glowing batter, is more Tokyo tempura than Italian antipasto. This one is announced as a fritto misto of winter vegetables, so you can feel good about your life choices, while celebrating the delicate art of deep-fat frying. There may have been slivers of squash and torn cabbage leaves hiding under the carapace. Who cares? It comes dribbled with a little honey, and dusted with chilli flakes. Abandon cutlery. This is work for fingers.
As a foil against the fried goods, order the panzanella of impeccable, taut-skinned tomatoes with torn pieces of their own dense sourdough to soak up the dressing, topped with snowy fleshed fillets of fried sardine. It's a summer afternoon on the beach, here amid a London winter. After which Don't Tell Dad stops being one of those small-plates restaurants you've started whining to your tolerant friends about, and just serves up plates of dinner. A piece of sea bass, cooked so the bronze sear has edged deeper into the fillet, lies on a textured purée of nutty Jerusalem artichokes.
Or there's what amounts to the whole of a thumping mallard, complete with shot, for an extremely keen £28: both legs, slow-cooked then crisped, and both breasts, spiced, roasted and rested. Cooking wild duck like this isn't something to which you can turn your hand. It takes experience to make sure it doesn't tense up as it cooks, like a Mastermind contestant in the black chair. The skin is dark and rendered, and there's a sweet carrot and date purée which is the ideal foil to the gamey meat. For salt there are bacon lardons. For greens there's kale. Like the crab tart, there is something very English about it, a pleasing whiff of damp field and meadow under glowering skies.
For dessert they offer madeleines. Make sure to leave time because, just as at St John where I first came across this proposition, they will be baked to order. I watch the tray being slipped into the oven. They arrive 10 minutes later, hot and crisp-edged, with a little orange cream to drag them through. The wine list by Bert Blaize, author of the book Which Wine When, is concise, big on bottles by small producers and has a good choice by the glass and 500ml carafe. Have one each. Daniel Land, responsible for feeding a lot of City workers, has talked effusively about now wanting to create something for where he lives: an adaptable space that changes through the day. The result may not always be cheap. It may feel like a neighbourhood restaurant for well-heeled neighbours. But that doesn't change the fact that it's a class act. Trust me, this is one you can mention to your dad, and anyone else for that matter.
The big news in the London restaurant world this week is the announcement that cult Leytonstone Thai restaurant Singburi will end its recent sabbatical by reopening in Shoreditch. The new venture, which has been described as Singburi 2.0, is a joint enterprise by head chef Sirichai Kularbwong (son of the original founders who have now retired), Nick Molyviatis of Kiln and Oma, and Alexander Gkikas of Catalyst. The new incarnation will open later in the spring.
Meanwhile Shaun Moffat, formerly of Manteca in Shoreditch, and more recently of the Edinburgh Castle in Manchester's Ancoats and then Maya, is staying in the city to open a restaurant called Winsome on Princess Street. It will, he says, serve 'thoughtful British cooking'. He'll be joined in the business by Owain Williams, one of the team behind Liverpool's Belzan and more recently Medlock Canteen.
The Midland Grand Dining Room at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, formerly the Gilbert Scott, is being taken over by Victor Garvey of Sola in Soho. 'A dining room of this stature deserves a menu that matches its grandeur,' Garvey has said, describing his plans for the room as 'Old world, new ideas, to honour the foundations of classical French cuisine while embracing modernity.' The opening menu includes tuna with white peach, duck with boudin noir and calvados apples, and guinea fowl with Armagnac prunes. Three courses will cost £75 and it opens on 25 February (midlandgranddiningroom.com).
Email Jay at jay.rayner@observer.co.uk or follow him on Instagram @jayrayner1
Hashtags

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Graziadaily
6 hours ago
- Graziadaily
All The Amazing Filming Locations In 'The Survivors', Netflix's New Thriller
There's nothing like a tense murder mystery to keep us glued to our screens, and Netflix's new crime series, The Survivors, has filled the gap in our TV schedules. If you haven't heard of The Survivors, the Australian drama flicks between the past and the present to tell the story of a coastal town, Evelyn Bay, that has been rocked with tragic deaths. The show is based on a bestselling novel by Jane Harper, and follows the story of Kieran Elliot, played by Charlie Vickers, as he returns to his hometown 15 years after losing his brother at sea in a storm. But on arriving back, he is met with another tragedy - a girl's body discovered on the beach. But alongside its twisty-turny storyline, something else has struck viewers: the gorgeous filming location. Think golden beaches, mysterious caves and rocky cliffs. Yerin Ha, who stars in the show, recently shared an Instagram post featuring some of the beautiful filming locations. As Ha's Instagram post suggests, the show was mostly filmed in Tasmania, but the production used several different locations to bring the action to life. Evelyn Bay is an entirely fictional town, which meant the crew has to get creative about where they filmed the series. Speaking with Tudum, Tony Ayres, the creator of The Survivors, said 'Evelyn Bay doesn't actually exist. Jane [Harper] made it up out of a number of different place.' The town of Evelyn Bay is bought to life through locations around Hobart, which is the capital city of Tasmania. Hobart has an urban landscape with a small population that strikes the right balance between nature and city, which the crew thought was perfect for the story. The Survivors. Cr. Courtesy of Netflix © 2025 ©Netflix Ayres told Tudum: 'Big emotions play out in this big landscape. That's why Tasmania works so well.' The eerie, remote locations, menacing cliffs and underpopulated areas work to represent the dangers the characters face, and adds to the sense of mystery that shrouds the town. According to Netflix's' Tudum, filming also took place at Eaglehawk Neck. Eaglehawk Neck is a small village which is about a 77km drive from Hobart, and hosts an impressive rocky shoreline. The Survivors. Cr. Courtesy of Netflix © 2025 ©Netflix Tony Ayres said that Eaglehawk Neck has 'such a gothic landscape. It's cliffs and sea caves and this pounding ocean. It really is so spectacular.' In another interview with Variety, Ayres explained why Eagle Hawk was the perfect place to film the show. 'It became very clear once we found Eagle Hawk Neck and the spectacular landscapes that the locations were going to be crucial to not just the tone of the show, but the themes of the show,' he told the outlet, adding that the landscape became integral to the story. 'We peppered the series all the way through with images from this sort of sense of foreboding that you have when you're standing on those cliff tops and seeing the caves and the ocean, the ferocity of the ocean, all of those things felt absolutely that they became emblematic of the storm, but also they felt metaphoric for the themes of the series,' he said. Alongside Eagle Hawk, some of the beach scenes were done at Freycinet Peninsula, which is part of Freycinet National Park and a place of great natural beauty. The area consists of dramatic mountain ranges and rocky cliffs which are integral to the show's atmosphere. One of these locations is Great Oyster Bay, which has breathtaking views of Schouten Island and the Hazards mountain range. Along with Tasmania, filming for The Survivors also took place in Docklands Studios in Melbourne. This location was mostly used for the interior shots, which allowed the crew to have more control over their environments. The studio is kitted out with six stages including two with waterproof pits, making it an ideal location for recreating the shows at-sea scenes. Alice Hall is the Staff Writer at Grazia UK. She was previously a Junior Features Writer for The Daily Telegraph. At Grazia, she writes news and features about pop culture, dating, health, politics and interiors.


Scottish Sun
8 hours ago
- Scottish Sun
Reality show crossover as UK fan-favourite is secretly dating Australian multi-millionaire TV icon after co-star split
The multi-millionaire recently sold his home for an impressive sum stars align Reality show crossover as UK fan-favourite is secretly dating Australian multi-millionaire TV icon after co-star split THERE'S been a reality crossover as a UK fan-favourite star is secretly dating an Australian multi-million TV icon, after splitting from her co-star. Ruby Adler joined the cast of Made In Chelsea back in 2020 as Reza Amiri-Garroussi's girlfriend. Advertisement 7 There's been a reality crossover as a UK fan-favourite star is secretly dating an Australian multi-million TV icon, after splitting from her co-star Credit: E4 7 Ruby hasn't had the best luck in love, after splitting from long-term boyfriend Reza Credit: E4 7 Ruby has moved on with another reality star - Australian real estate agent Gavin Rubinstein from Luxe Listings Sydney Credit: Getty 7 Gavin is a very successful real estate agent and is best known for the show he's on, which made its debut on Amazon Prime in 2021 Credit: Getty Fans will know that the pair had a very rocky relationship, and the couple, who dated on-and-off for 10 years, called it quits for good in 2022. Now, Ruby has moved on with another reality star - Australian real estate agent Gavin Rubinstein from Luxe Listings Sydney. A source told The Sun: 'They met a few months back and have been on a string of dates since - including a trip to LA where they watched the Lakers play.' Ruby's rep had no comment when approached by The Sun. Advertisement Gavin is a very successful real estate agent and is best known for the show he's on, which made its debut on Amazon Prime in 2021. The show sees Gavin, alongside other agents Simon Cohen and D'Leanne Lewis, trading some of the most exclusive properties in Sydney. Recently, the real estate reality star made a big profit after selling his Sydney home for $8million. Meanwhile, Ruby hasn't had the best luck in love, after splitting from long-term boyfriend Reza, and then dating convicted drug dealer Nicholas Sinclair, after his release from prison last year. Advertisement Ruby and Nicholas ended their relationship, and on MIC, she broke down, saying she wishes "the best for him". Made In Chelsea star Ruby Adler opens up about family heartbreak as she plans to raise awareness on E4 show Nicholas is now dating OnlyFans model Jemma Lucy, and they often share racy photos together. It was also revealed that Ruby had a "secret fling" with All Stars winner Tom Clare, and the two were messaging just hours before he entered the Love Island villa back in January. A source said at the time: "Tom and Ruby were seeing each other for several weeks before he went on Love Island All Stars. Advertisement "After Tom slid into her DMs, they met up in person and started dating, with Ruby often staying over at Tom's place." Tom is now dating Molly Smith, with the pair winning Love Island All Stars last year. 7 Ruby and her new man have enjoyed a trip to LA together Credit: Instagram/@rubyadler 7 They've also been to watch the Lakers play Credit: Instagram/@g_rubinstein Advertisement


Wales Online
9 hours ago
- Wales Online
Roald Dahl-inspired Wallace and Gromit sculpture part of charity trail
Roald Dahl-inspired Wallace and Gromit sculpture part of charity trail Big Friendly Wallace, featuring large ears, sits on a bench with a giant teacup of fizzy Frobscottle – the green drink consumed by giants in Dahl's 1982 novel The BFG (Image: BBC ) A Wallace and Gromit sculpture inspired by Roald Dahl and Sir Quentin Blake's Big Friendly Giant (BFG) will form part of a charity trail across Bristol this summer. Big Friendly Wallace, featuring large ears, sits on a bench with a giant teacup of fizzy Frobscottle – the green drink consumed by giants in Dahl's 1982 novel The BFG. The artwork is one of 53 forming the Gromit Unleashed trail, which will be hitting the streets of Bristol from June 30, in aid of the city's children's hospital charity The Grand Appeal. Five sculptures were unveiled overlooking the Clifton Suspension Bridge on Wednesday, including Netflix's re-imagining of Wednesday Addams as Aardman's Feathers McGraw. Feathers is painted in purple and black shades, with the phrase "Wednesday's child is full of woe" printed on its centre. Article continues below There is also Walk the Lime, a citrus inspired Gromit that pays homage to the 2005 Johnny Cash biopic – complete with a lime perched on the dog's nose. The Norbot gnome from Wallace and Gromit's Vengeance Most Fowl 2024 film will also make an appearance on the trail. Nicola Masters, director of The Grand Appeal, said: "We are thrilled to be bringing the magic and wonder of cinema, film, stories and legends to our third Gromit Unleashed trail this summer, turning the streets of Bristol and beyond into a living storybook. Article continues below "Each Aardman sculpture is a character, each corner a scene, and together they form a spectacular adventure – all to raise funds for The Grand Appeal, the Bristol Children's Hospital Charity. "By following the trail, families, friends, residents of Bristol and visitors from the UK and all over the world won't just be part of a city-wide celebration of creativity – everyone will be helping to create a brighter, and better future for young patients in the children's hospital. "This year, Gromit unleashes the magic of cinema grounded in a very real cause."