
A philanthropist's art collection that shows how Goya anticipated Van Gogh, Gauguin and Cézanne
Is there much further mileage in Impressionism? There's certainly no shortage of public interest, judging by the huge response to the Courtauld's recent Monet in London exhibition and the National's just-closed Van Gogh: Poets and Lovers – the most popular show in the gallery's history. But what are the chances of an exhibition of the greatest hits of a single Impressionist collection – however stellar – providing major new insights into this well-trodden territory?
At first sight, the Oskar Reinhart Collection (usually housed in Winterthur, Switzerland), feels almost the mirror image of the Courtauld. Both were created in the early 20th century by wealthy businessmen with a philanthropic bent and an obsession with Impressionism. With the former's handsome premises near Zurich under refurbishment, a group of key masterpieces has arrived in London for a show that should perfectly complement the Courtauld's stunning permanent Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collections.
If the inclusion of Goya in the show's title feels like a rather clumsy attempt to gild the lily by yanking in another mega-name, a group of early 19th-century paintings at the start of the show proves otherwise as they deftly set up the glories to come. Goya's bluntly matter-of-fact Still Life with Three Salmon Steaks (1808), a mound of oily pink fish against a dead black background could pass for the kind of determinedly mundane still life painting the great Impressionist pioneer Edouard Manet was producing 70 years later.
Meanwhile, Theodore Gericault's A Man Suffering from Delusions of Military Rank (1819), one of a series of haunting portraits of the mentally ill by the great Romantic painter, feels disconcertingly modern in both its subject and unflinchingly direct treatment. And a turbulent seascape by Gustave Courbet, leader of the opposing Realist tendency, compounds the sense that far from being a bolt from the blue, as we tend to imagine, Impressionism was the natural outcome of a number of existing trends.
When it comes to the Impressionists themselves, nearly every work seems to offer a surprising twist. We tend to think of Cézanne as a Post-Impressionist who paved the way for Cubism and other 20th-century breakthroughs. Yet his magnificently physical Portrait of Dominique Aubert, with its rich blacks, pinks and whites larded on with a palette knife, dates from 1866, pre-dating Impressionism proper.
And I doubt if anyone seeing the large, bold and admirably unfussy Lily and Greenhouse Plants (1864), which gives us, very plainly, exactly what the title says, would imagine it was by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, generally seen as the most soft-centred of the Impressionists. There's a privileged sense of looking in on some of the world's most famous artists before they were Impressionists.
While there are no surprises in Monet's The Breakup of Ice on the Seine (1880), the reflections of poplars among shards of ice are so vividly evoked in the sketchiest of paint strokes that you can practically feel the chill air flooding off the canvas. If none of us are currently in need of any more chill air, there's a palpable warmth in the orange-tinged walls and earth in Gauguin's Blue Roofs (Rouen) (1884). The bad boy of Post-Impressionism is captured at the moment when he'd given up his day job as a stockbroker and was evolving his own symbolically charged approach to colour.
Cézanne's Still Life with Faience Jug and Fruit (1900), a magnificent example of one of his monumental late still lifes, draws us into the artist's preoccupation with simple objects which is so intensely, even transcendentally focused that it seems to blot out the rest of reality. Yet it's impossible to look at the adjacent painting, Van Gogh's deceptively serene The Courtyard of the Hospital at Arles (1889), without it bringing to mind the tragic breakdown that had brought the artist there.
While there were a number of these perplexingly tranquil garden scenes in the recent National Gallery show, here we're also offered a rarer work: a view of the interior in The Ward in the Hospital at Arles (1889), showing a group of his fellow inmates slumped around a stove. While the wall texts refer to a sense of 'unease and imbalance' in the upward tilting perspective between the long rows of beds, I was struck more by a sense of heartrending stoicism as Van Gogh seizes one of his last opportunities to record the physical world he loved so much.
The show's poster image, Toulouse-Lautrec's The Clown Cha-U-Kao (1895), showing a faux-Chinese nightclub performer arm-in-arm with her girlfriend, provides such a wonderfully vibrant glimpse into the netherworld of the Moulin Rouge that it made me want to punch Baz Luhrmann for making such a caricatured travesty of a film about it. And if Edouard Manet can feel, for all his huge importance as an innovator, a touch stiff and formal as a painter, the bohemian figures in his Au Café (1878) look so tangibly alive you could almost climb into the painting to join them for a beer.
This modestly scaled exhibition may be an aside in the greater conversation surrounding Impressionism, but it's one that provides vivid and often surprising glimpses into that now-distant time and world at every turn. It made me fall in love with this great moment in art all over again.
'Goya to Impressionism – Masterpieces from the Oskar Reinhart Collection' is at the Courtauld from 14 February until 26 May
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The Guardian
an hour ago
- The Guardian
‘Prison was the first place we felt sisterhood': six women return to the ruins of Holloway
The directors of Holloway use a simple but powerful visual device to demonstrate how badly the British prison system is failing the women it incarcerates. Towards the end of their eponynmous documentary, six former inmates are invited to play a version of Grandmother's Footsteps in the chapel of the deserted ex-prison, where they have been filming for five days. They begin lined up against the wall and a voice tells them: 'Step forward if you grew up in a chaotic household.' All six women step forward, before being instructed: 'Step forward if you experienced domestic violence growing up.' Again, they move ahead in unison. 'Step forward if somebody in your household has experienced drug use. Step forward if you grew up in a household where there wasn't very much money. Step forward if a member of your family has been to prison …' By the time the exercise is over, almost all the women have silently made their way from one side of the room to the other, starkly highlighting the film's fundamental theme: the UK's prisons are full of vulnerable women being punished – at great expense – and not helped. Shortly before Holloway prison began to be demolished in 2022, directors Sophie Compton and Daisy-May Hudson secured permission to film inside the abandoned site in London, watching as six women returned to the cells where they were once held, to explore how they all ended up imprisoned as young women. Directors of a more conventional documentary might have plonked the participants on the bare iron frames of their old prison beds and instructed them to pour out their life stories, poking and prodding them for all the shocking details. Compton and Hudson take a subtler approach, arranging the women in a circle, supervised by a trained therapist, and waiting to see what emerges. It is a risky strategy. The flow of the conversation is faltering, interrupted by nervousness about how their words will be used, suspicion about the directors' intentions – and a sudden, uncomfortable request for the most difficult conversations to continue without the cameras rolling. The film includes all this uncertainty: they debate whether they should proceed before realising their desire to talk about the justice system's failures mostly outweighs their concerns about sharing chapters from their complicated pasts. Compton (Emmy nominated for her documentary on deepfake pornography, Another Body) and Hudson (who won a Bafta Breakthrough award for her film Half Way, documenting her own family's experience of homelessness) have the confidence to make their subjects collaborators on the project, inviting them into the editing process, to ensure everyone feels happy with how their experiences have been handled. 'They could say what they did and didn't like,' Hudson says. 'They wanted more laughter included. Our wish was that they felt proud of the film.' Once western Europe's largest women's prison, Holloway has a significant place in British history. More than 300 suffragettes were held in a wing of the original building during the early 20th century. Ruth Ellis was hanged there in 1955, the last woman to be executed in the UK. Greenham Common protesters spent time here. Sarah Reed, who had previously been a victim of police brutality in 2012, died in her cell in 2016. This is not the story the film sets out to tell. 'It's not a film about Holloway; other films can tell a historical story or show the realities of being in prison,' says Compton, who I meet along with Hudson and two of the film's participants, Aliyah Ali and Mandy Ogunmokun. 'This is about a group of women returning to Holloway, and finding they are not the same people they were when they were in prison.' The women each respond differently when they walk through the corridors of the site, which closed in 2016. Some take delight in defying forgotten rules, skipping along walkways that were previously out of bounds. One begins by cheerfully telling the cameras how she viewed her time at Holloway as a holiday camp experience – it takes days for her to admit the extent to which her attitude is just a protective front. Another observes approvingly the way that brambles and ferns have started to reclaim the space, springing from beneath the plug sockets and creeping through the windows. 'It feels kind of healing to see that Holloway prison is falling apart,' she says. Some remember with horror the noise of night-time screaming, but several are surprised by the unexpected feelings of affection the building triggers. 'It was probably the first time that I was in an environment which was controlled and felt safe,' Ali, 31, tells me. 'It's sad that for a lot of us, the first time we felt that connection of belonging and sisterhood, we found it in prison. What does that say about society?' She was sent to Holloway at 18. 'Growing up how I grew up, you're conditioned to just brush things off and get on with things, and wear masks and stay strong. When I went back to my first cell, I felt my 18-year-old self cry out.' Ali is initially the most reluctant of the six participants. The founder of a non-profit organisation, The Daddyless Daughters Project, she has rebuilt her life, radiates strength and seems visibly irritated by the entire setup. 'I was worried they could edit our voices and create a narrative that we weren't hoping for,' she says. 'I was thinking, 'We're trusting them with a level of vulnerability that we're not comfortable with. What are these people going to do with it?'' Gradually she was reassured and slowly began to reveal some of the childhood events that catapulted her into prison – family breakdown, domestic violence, a move to a women's refuge, then later into a residential children's home at the age of 12. Her problems escalated when she got caught up in county lines dealing, as a child exploited by criminal gangs to move and supply drugs. 'I was introduced to selling drugs, which I was very good at, and it was the first time that I started to feel a sense of worth,' she finally reveals on camera. She is dismayed to remember how little support she received as a child. 'The system saw me as a bad girl … as somebody who asked for all of this,' she says in the film. 'It was always, 'What's wrong with you? Why can't you just behave? Why can't you just stop doing this?' Nothing was asked about what actually happened to me,' she says. Her fury is echoed by Ogunmokun. 'It's so frustrating to see how similar the stories of people going in and out of prison are. Change is so slow,' she says. The daughter of a woman who struggled with addiction, she also spent some of her childhood in care, went to Holloway first aged 20, and was in and out repeatedly for two decades until she shook off her own drug addiction aged 40. 'I'm angry that some kids are born into certain circumstances, and what chance do they have?' Ogunmokun, 66, has dedicated the 25 years since leaving Holloway to helping former addicts break the cycle of addiction and offending. 'Every time I reoffended the judge would say: 'You haven't learned anything.'' She didn't get the support she needed to change while she was in prison, through no real fault of the prison staff. 'The officers see horrific things, but they're not trained counsellors – they're not mental health trained, they're not sex-trafficking trained, they're not domestic violence trained. They've got a regime they have to run by.' She hopes the film might persuade viewers that there needs to be a revolution in the way that female offenders are treated. It is almost 20 years since the seminal Corston report on vulnerable women in the criminal justice system called for a radically different strategy, but many of the report's key recommendations have yet to be implemented. Hudson and Compton struggled for several years to raise funding to finish their film. Now they feel happy that it is being released at a time when there is some emerging optimism about the possibility of change. 'The simple truth is that we are sending too many women to prison,' the justice secretary, Shabana Mahmood, said earlier this year. 'We need to do things differently.' The film will be screened at an event with the prisons minister, James Timpson, in parliament later this month. Hudson's first fiction film, Lollipop, which comes out this month too, also features a woman who has recently left prison. She says both projects examine the way vulnerable women are shamed and blamed, as well as trying to showcase 'the power of women that society tries to put on the outskirts'. Ali is satisfied with how the film has turned out, and wants it to be shown to young people in prisons, to offer hope that lives can alter course. Despite her early reservations, she is impressed by the directors' creation. 'It's been emotionally turbulent,' she says, 'but they've done an amazing job.' Holloway is in UK cinemas from 20 June.


Times
2 hours ago
- Times
Meet the fashion set's favourite jewellery designer
Ours is the era of the neck mess, that personalised curation of chains and charms that adorns the décolletage of pretty much every woman I know, telling her story by way of an array of hanging objets. What I have before me today, as I sit having coffee with the jewellery designer Alexandra Jefford, 55, is not a mere neck mess so much as a neck mass. As in, it's the absolute massimo, the very apogee of what a neck mess can be, with its stunning assortment of shapes — from the sculpturally abstract to a cloud, an eye, an Om, a snake. Each are distinctively rendered and often glistening with diamonds. No wonder Jefford's bespoke creations have been seen on women such as Nicole Kidman. Another devotee of her eponymous brand, which she launched in 2004, is Ruth Chapman, the soignée co-founder of the now late, much lamented, Matches Fashion. 'Alex is quite simply the most original fine jewellery designer working anywhere today,' says Chapman, who has been buying from her for 18 years. 'I am constantly asked about her pieces when I wear them. There is such a deep artistry to them.' When I met Jefford at a dinner party over a decade ago, I have to admit that it was her ring that first caught my eye, an epic agglomeration of giant pearl, leaf-green Peridot and a gold cast of an actual leaf that looked to have been plucked from Tolkien's Laurelin. On the day of our recent coffee, however, nestling there among her pendants is something that I am not expecting. It's a squidgy cartoon figure wearing boots, like something out of a picture book, rendered in curvaceous 18-carat gold. It's akin to something a child might wear, yet at the same time looks — this being Jefford, one of the most stylish women I know — incredibly chic. It turns out this is a character that, in fact, goes by the name of Mr Boots. 'I was called 'a fly with boots on' as a child,' Jefford says, 'because of my skinny legs and my tendency to clomp around the house in boots.' Mr Boots is one of the six new pendants — or 'talismans', as Jefford prefers to call them — that lie at the heart of Jefford's new brand, Kasmira's Moon. Named after her niece, it launches in Dover Street Market in London on June 12. Each pendant is available in three sizes (from £890 to £4,900, with to-order diamond pavé iterations of three of the designs also available (from £1,900). Included in the line-up is a pudgy sun that looks to be wearing mascara (Sam Sun), plus — in another illustration of Jefford's deliciously quirky imagination — a creature she calls Iguana Pickle. Come again? 'It was born from my slight obsession with pickles,' she says, laughing. 'There's something mischievous about a pickle compared to a bland cucumber.' Indeed. Each character symbolises a particular quality, she continues. Iguana Pickle is not just mischievous but also about 'empathy' apparently, while Sam Sun is about 'kindness' and Mr Boots about 'togetherness'. 'They are like little mantras you can carry around with you,' she says. Apart from the plain gold paperclip chains (from £800), Kasmira's Moon also offers iterations part strung with beads (from £700) or stones (from £950), including the Paraiba, Jefford's favourite, which she loves for its 'blue the same shade as the South Pacific' (£10,700). One of the qualities Chapman admires in Jefford's work, she says, is how 'Alex is so committed to the best stones'. She should, Chapman continues, 'be designing for a major house'. Take note Louis Vuitton, which is at present without an artistic director for watches and jewellery after the departure of Francesca Amfitheatrof in March. Yet Chapman goes on to concede that if Jefford were to take on a major gig then 'her designs would be more widely available, and I suppose I wouldn't like that!' Why the new brand? Jefford, who is also a practising artist, has been 'doodling' her whole life, she tells me. 'Every time I am on the phone it ends up being a doodleathon,' she says. 'I illustrated stories for my three children and my niece when they were little. And all my notepads are covered in doodles. I have long been wondering what to do with them, and now here we are! Kasmira's Moon!' She grew up in Switzerland adoring the work of the French cartoonist Sempé. 'He drew such amusing little characters.' There is, in fact, something of Le Petit Nicolas, Sempé's most famous creation, about the preternaturally gamine designer, who tells me she sees no contradiction between jewellery of the very highest quality and a childlike aesthetic. 'There is a child in every one of us. And now more than ever we need joyful things.' Certainly ours is a moment, aesthetically, when many proper grown-ups have no problem surfacing their inner child, from Dua Lipa with her Labubu bag charm hanging from her Hermès, to the latest Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami collaboration. This encompasses everything from a cherry-adorned Monogram scrunchie with ears (£300 for two, to a giant rendering of the artist's signature mouse on a surfboard (£10,800). 'Not everyone is going to get this collection,' Jefford says of Kasmira's Moon. 'But I think many people will. Why can't you make something really fun and also really beautiful? These are pieces that have an intrinsic value, an emotional value, and are also just a bit of joy.'


Daily Mail
3 hours ago
- Daily Mail
Cricket WAG Emma Lyon stuns in designer outfit as she watches hubby Nathan play in London - and you won't believe how much it costs
Emma Lyon has turned heads in a stunning designer outfit worth at least $17,800 as she watched her husband Nathan Lyon try to steer Australia to victory in the World Test Championship in London on Wednesday. The mum-of-one, who shares a one-year-old daughter with the spin bowler, was in the good seats at London's famous Lord's stadium after s paring no expense on her flight over to the UK. She treated her Instagram followers to photos of her standing on a balcony at the 'home of cricket', cradling her baby daughter and looking like she could've just done a photo shoot for Vogue. Daily Mail Australia has tracked down the various piece of her ensemble, which is far out of the average Aussie cricket fan's price range. Emma was dressed in an Integrated Fluid Silk Skirt from Dutch fashion house Róhe, which would have set her back about $1200. She paired that with another piece from the designer, a matching Sleeveless Gliet-Jacket worth $1100. Emma's jewellery puts those items into the shade in terms of cost, however: she's wearing what appears to be a Cartier Love Bracelet worth $9050 as well as another piece from the famed luxury company, a Juste Un clou bracelet priced at $6450. The 32-year-old also flaunted her high-end tastes when she documented her journey to England for the match recently. Lyon showed off $22,000 in accessories and $1500 worth of in-flight skin care as she and her daughter flew to London. That included a Chanel bag worth $19,230 and a $3725 tote bag from Goyard. Emma finally confirmed she and Nathan welcomed a baby girl to the world in September 2023. They made the reveal in October 2024, with Nathan now a father to three girls as he shares two children with his ex-partner Mel Waring. The off-spinner lost his wicket for a duck on Wednesday night, Australian time, as the Aussies stumbled to a first-innings total of just 212. He only got one over in before stumps as pacemen Mitchell Starc, Pat Cummins and Josh combined to leave South Africa reeling at 4/43. She flew first-class to England with her daughter late last month and brought her $19,230 Chanel bag (pictured) Lyon has been one of Australia's best players since making his Test debut in 2011, taking 553 wickets at an average of just 30.19. That's reflected in his contract with Cricket Australia, which pays him a rumoured $1.1million a year. He is also contracted to the Melbourne Renegades in the Big Bash League. Lyon's ex-wife Mel Waring recently gave Daily Mail Australia an exclusive update on her life after she moved to Canberra with the two daughters she shares with the star.