Move over Dubai – the Middle East's ‘Pearl of the Gulf' is more interesting

Metro

24-05-2025

My eyes race to keep pace with the scene whizzing past the taxi window. Sleek glass skyscrapers shimmer in the sun, twin sail-shaped towers scrape the clouds, and beyond the road we are driving on there is nothing but lunar-like desert.
I'm in Manama, Bahrain's up-and-coming capital. For a moment, I imagine I boarded the wrong Gulf Air jet and landed in Dubai instead.
But this tiny Gulf nation, which has been at the crossroads of global trade since antiquity, offers something more interesting and less pretentious than its better-known neighbour.
Like an oyster, Bahrain is rough around the edges and tricky to crack. But underneath is a multicultural country full of ancient history and a blossoming food scene that's often overlooked by tourists.
I arrive without expectation, and leave with a new favourite city break.
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Manama's opulent Ritz-Carlton is so beautiful, I toy with the idea of reading by the pool before exploring the city.
But Zahra Almoamen, my guide and Bahraini cultural guru, does not believe in slow starts. I have barely taken the last sip of cardamom coffee when she rushes me out the door and into the bustling heart of the souk.
Eyes boggling at the colourful fabrics, lamps and jewellery that adorn every stall, we meet Maram Maher, from Pink Alien Food Tours, at the twin-arched gate of Bab Al Bahrain.
Hand in hand – a testament to the warmth and openness of Bahrainis – we wander through a maze of narrow streets sampling traditional fare such as halwa, a sticky, sugary paste rich with saffron, rose water, cardamom and nuts.
Sipping on tea at the Al Namliti Café, Zahra and Maram give me a masterclass in Bahrain that covers everything from local gossip to the history of the nation.
Secrets I refuse to spill, but the fact of the matter is that this is a fascinating place.
The only island nation in the Arab world is made up of 33 natural islands and a few man-made ones. This tiny state first traded in gold and pearls, before it became the first Gulf country to discover oil in 1932 — then everything escalated. https://www.instagram.com/p/DIo-HP3ILc_/
Eager to showcase the culture that makes Bahrain unique, Zahra arranges for us to spend the following day in Muharraq. The former capital is the home of the Pearling Path, a UNESCO world heritage site that tells the story of Bahrain before it found oil.
It takes the form of a two-mile route that threads through the low-rise streets of the old city, linking markets and mosques with cultural venues.
Pearl diving in Bahrain was first mentioned in Assyrian texts as far back as 2000 BC. Its peak ran between 1850 and 1930, when pearls were more precious than diamonds. Jewelers like Cartier flocked to the region.
We begin at the sandy beach, where divers once started from, and proceed to tour impressive merchant residences.
'Follow the lampposts,' Zahra tells me, pointing at lights made to look like floating pearls.
Aside from being a major tourist attraction, the project is symbolic. Bahrain is sensitive about protecting its culture and embracing tradition, even though Manama is one of the most modern cities I have ever explored.
Like many Middle Eastern countries, Bahrain has its fair share of misconceptions.
In contrast to neighbouring Saudi Arabia and Qatar, alcohol is available in licensed venues, women are not required to wear abayas, and mixed‑gender socialising is common, especially in Manama.
Bahrain also has one of the most religiously diverse populations in the Gulf.
Zahra and Maram take me to meet members of the community at the Hindu Shrinathji Temple, Manama Synagogue, and the architectural wonder that is the Al Fateh Grand Mosque, which can accommodate up to 7,000 worshippers.
However, like anywhere that has undergone rapid transformation, Bahrain is a place of contrasts — especially when it comes to freedom of expression. @voyagefox
The best 5 places to visit in Bahrain 🇧🇭 1. Al Fateh Grand Mosque 🕌 the biggest & most impressive mosque in Bahrain 2. Jarada Island 🩵 a small uninhabited island off Bahrain's coast, is perfect for a boat trip with amazing blue water & white sandy beaches (unfortunately we had to skip this tour 🥹) 3. Haji Café 🫓 for the amazing authentic food. A family owned restaurant run in the third generation which is beloved for breakfast among locals. 4. Bab Al Bahrain ⚱️ the biggest souk in Bahrain where you can get EVERYTHING 5. The Bahrain International Circuit 🏎️ to watch the Grand Prix OR even better: drive on the kart circuit yourself 🚀 🏨 The best place to stay in Bahrain: The Four Season Bahrain has the perfect location in the capital Manama, incredible dining possibilities, a beautiful beach & a relaxing spa and pools (also shown in this Reel) 😊 Find many more things to do in my Bahrain story highlight 😊 #bahrain #visitbahrain #middleeast #arabia #hiddengem #traveltips ♬ Arabian Nights (2019) – Will Smith
As a journalist, I am lucky to travel here and write freely, but some of my colleagues in Bahrain are not afforded the same right. In the 2025 World Press Freedom Index, Bahrain ranked 157 of 180 countries.
Until recently, China and India have been the major markets for Bahraini tourism, but strides are now being made to enhance its appeal in Europe and the UK.
In March, Gulf Air launched a new flight route from London Gatwick to Manama, in addition to the airline's twice-daily flights from Heathrow.
Tourist numbers had surpassed pre-Covid highs by 2023, and as traditional destinations push back against visitors, Bahrain could benefit.
The next morning, I find myself almost on the other side of the country at the Tree of Life, a 600-year-old Prosopis cineraria tree shrouded in mystery.
Surrounded by oil wells, it rises 32 feet in the middle of the Arabian Desert. Legend has it that it thrives without any source of water, though a friend who has been visiting Manama for years later tells me that she has seen a gardener hosing the roots on more than one occasion.
So much for mystery.
We also stop by the Bahrain Fort, properly called Qal'at al-Bahrain, a world heritage site in the Northern Governorate.
Dating back to around 2300 BC, you can see evidence of the ancient ancient Dilmun empire that once reigned here, as well as previous civilisations including the Greeks, Portuguese and Persians.
Since opening as an archaeological site in 2008, it has become one of the most photographed places in the country (just check Instagram or TikTok).
A 40-minute drive takes us back to Manama, where it seems there is always something happening.
My visit comes just after the Bahrain Grand Prix, a lavish spectacle that draws Formula 1 fans from around the world.
But tonight the city is buzzing over another sporting event: the finale of the World's Strongest Man.
As the sun vanishes over the waterfront, people flood the stands at the outdoor arena opposite The Avenues Mall. Fans chant as a line-up of muscle-bound men grunt with the strain of dragging cars and throwing tires in the air.
Jarada Island in one of Bahrain's best kept secrets. It deserves a full, dedicated day on any itinerary.
Just a 40-minute boat ride from Amwaj Marina, this small shimmering island in the Arabian Gulf appears and disappears with the tide.
This is a beach experience you've never had before. It is visited by Bahrainis and tourists in the know, who barbecue on the sand and blast music until the sun goes down.
Manama might be small, but it has a big appetite for entertainment. The city prides itself on world-class dining, and the many shisha lounges and rooftop bars seem to be full, 24/7.
So is the Time Out Market (of Lisbon fame), which has quickly become one of the most popular attractions since opening in December.
Manama's culinary scene is heavily influenced by its expat community: an estimated 11,000 Brits live in Bahrain, but the largest communities come from India, Pakistan, the Philippines and Egypt. More Trending
That diverse mix has resulted in vibrant restaurants that draw inspiration from Middle Eastern, Indian and European flavours. Some of the recommended dishes to try in Bahrain are machboos, the national rice dish, and traditional sweets such as ghreybah.
I end my journey with a hearty brunch at Green Bar Café, the best meal I've had since arriving.
I leave Bahrain wanting more. I feel I have only scratched the gilded surface of this multilayered nation, but what will stay with me is the warmth of its people.
Gulf Air flies direct from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Manama from £569pp return in June.
Gergana Krasteva was a guest of Bahrain's Tourism Board. She stayed at the Ritz-Carlton, where rooms start from £287 a night.
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