Orange wines: 10 labels to discover this trending varietal
In the world of wine, trends come and go, but some manage to establish themselves as new ways of exploring the terroir. This is the case with orange wines, a type of wine that has gained prominence in Mendoza in recent years. Their uniqueness lies in the production process: although made with white grapes, they are vinified like reds, meaning they undergo extended contact with the skins, giving them a golden or amber color that catches the eye at first sight.
More and more Mendoza producers are daring to experiment with this ancient technique, resulting in expressive, textured wines that are versatile for pairing. There are different styles, which is why Camila Cerezo Pawlak, the sommelier who leads the Ruda Cocina project with her partner, will take us on a journey through 10 must-try labels for those who want to dive into the world of orange wines.
What Are Orange Wines?
Orange wines are white wines fermented with their skins, which gives them color, texture, and tannins, something unusual for this category. While it may seem like a recent trend, the oldest records date back to Eastern Europe, specifically to Georgia, over 8,000 years ago.
Clay pots buried underground, whole bunches, aromatic grapes, and wild yeasts resulted in a cloudy wine, with the freshness of a white, the structure of a red, and the color of citrus fruits. Does it contain oranges? No, but the contact of the juice with the skins of the white grapes, through oxidation and prolonged maceration, results in various shades of sunset-like colors.
This process was refined in Argentina by Matías Michelini, the first to make orange wines in the country and who also introduced Torrontés, the classic varietal of our region. Today, wineries from Mendoza, each with different styles, have adopted this method, marking new production horizons.
That's why Camila suggests 10 Mendoza orange wines to try. But first, she remembers: "Orange wine entered my life through a Mendoza producer, and from that moment on, I found myself immersed in a whirlwind of orange wines. Year after year, tasting and studying, I understood why these wines, deeply rooted in the past and artisanal methods, were gaining ground in modern consumption."
Cami is an "aspiring political scientist turned sommelier," as she describes herself. She works with wine and hospitality at Ruda Cocina, a gastronomic project that led her to leave her hometown of Buenos Aires and settle in Gualtallary, Valle de Uco, with her partner and chef, Gastón Trama.
"Here is, with the utmost humility, my vision of the 10 orange wines that make me happiest," says Cami, presenting a selection that aims to illustrate the breadth of styles in terms of grape varieties, regions, producers, and Mendoza orange wines.
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