David Ellis reviews One Club Row:
They stir the best drinks list I can remember: sharpeners of £10 negronis; four types of martini; a Hemingway daiquiri. After the meal are poured brandy Alexanders and vieux carrés, sherries and ports, dangerous things like Fernet Branca. Cocktails are mostly £12; a double Scotch is £9. Wine is likewise priced for people to actually drink the stuff (from £7.50 a glass), though the list is busiest between the £50 and £80-a-bottle mark. These are prices with enough value that indulging needn't be justified by a special occasion. No one's being taken for a ride. It's as though they want their customers to actually enjoy themselves. Can you imagine?
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