A visit to Dalma Island: Exploring UAE's pearling heritage amid a coastal calm

Al Etihad

14-04-2025

15 Apr 2025 01:17
RAJEEV CHERIAN (DALMA ISLAND)Slow-spinning turbines dotting the wavy landscape and outlines of settlements grew clearer as the ferry approached the coast. Unassuming of its rich past as a pearl-diving hub and archaeological site, Dalma Island, off the coast of Abu Dhabi, is a treasure trove of Emirati history and heritage.Situated in the Arabian Gulf, Dalma Island was one of the earliest sites of human habitation in the UAE, which dates back to at least 7,000 years. With its abundant freshwater sources, the island supplied water to Abu Dhabi until the 1950s.The historical island also offers clues to the earliest evidence of date palm cultivation. Thanks to its fertile soil, the island is home to many farms growing diverse produce.Apart from its historical significance, the island now is a favourite destination for camping enthusiasts. As soon as the ferry anchors at the jetty, small pickups with supplies, families in their cars, and 4WDs loaded with camping paraphernalia disembarked the vessel.
Window to a Rich Heritage At the heart of the island and a must-visit site is the home of pearl merchant Muhammad bin Jassim Al Muraikhi, now housing the Delma Museum after a major restoration in 1993. Despite its modest size, the two-storey museum opens a wide window into the island's rich past."All the income in the past was on Delma from diving, and pearling helped with spending on the towns and villages," read a text at the entrance of the museum quoting the saying of the UAE's Founding Father, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan."Around a century ago, when pearling was at its height, Delma was the centre of the pearling trade. The house you stand in today was built from this wealth," read another inscription welcoming the visitors to the museum.
Pearling The region was a pearl diving hub until the 1950s, attracting foreign traders from across the world. Pearling was a seasonal activity and the warm waters of the summer months offered an ideal environment for diving. In the UAE, the season is known as "Ghous Al Kabir" or the "big dive".The pearl divers embarked on boats for the season which lasts for three to four months. Armed with a bag, a goat horn clip for the nose, and a rope tied along their waist so they can easily be pulled up at the end of each dive, they hunted for oysters. The dives lasted for about two minutes at depths of some 20 metres.Among the meticulously showcased items at the museum are a pearl necklace, a mother-of-pearl shell, nets, anchor, diving weight, and ropes. Also gracing the museum's booths are a ledger used by pearl merchants, a wooden box and coins from bygone eras, pointing to the interaction of trade.
An Extraordinary House Al Muraikhi, a wealthy pearl merchant from Dalma, built the house as his headquarters in the late 19th century. A unique structure in the region, it was the only two-storey building at that time and served as a strong room, office, court chamber and assembly room (majlis).Despite its name Bait Al Muraikhi (Al Muraikhi House) or Bait Al Lulu (Pearl House), it was never a residence.The museum also offers insights into the marine biodiversity of Delma. The diversity of flora and fauna attracted and supported human habitation for more than 7,000 years, since the Neolithic era, according to the museum.
'Little Bombay' and 'Paris of the Coast' Back in the days, the global hub of pearl trade was Bombay, and merchants regularly travelled to Dalma to buy pearls. Many traders also often financed ships and came to Delma to settle debts. Due to these strong links to Bombay, Delma's was known as "Little Bombay".During the peak of pearling season, people from the region sailed to Delma in search of their bounty. The combination of wealth and the arrival of people, especially during summer months, also earned it the moniker "the Paris of the Coast".
Thanking UAE Leaders While on the ferry on a trip back to Dalma from Abu Dhabi, Hussein Khamis Jassim Hossani, an elderly Emirati citizen, shared his fond memories of the island."Long time ago, when petrol was not yet discovered, many people resorted to pearl diving, so they sell them and provide for their families," he said. "They did not have the modern technology that keep them long under the water like oxygen tanks, so only healthy people would dive down. Some would stay for more than five minutes in one breath, and they come up to catch their breath again."He fondly remembered the visits of Sheikh Zayed, who ensured that all residents of the island were provided with the best living conditions.Hossani thanked the UAE's wise leadership for providing all amenities on the island, like hospitals, schools and providing residents with best quality of life.
Date Press Another key highlight of the museum is its showcase of "midbasah" or the date press that produces date molasses (dibs) and dried dates.A video explainer outlines the process in detail, offering a glimpse into the agricultural and technical ingenuity of yesteryears.After harvest, dates were left out in the sun for a few days. Later, they were packed in sacks made of palm fronds (yiraab), and stacked in grooves across the floor. The dates would start to compress under their own weight, releasing the molasses. The molasses syrup oozes along the grooves; flows toward a hole at the lowest corner of the room; and goes straight into the jars underneath.
Three Mosques Among the other key attractions on the island are the three historic mosques known for their fine craftsmanship: Al Muraikhi Mosque built between the late 1800s and early 1900s by Al Muraikhi; Al Muhannadi Mosque, which was built by Saeed Ali Al Muhannadi in 1946; and Al Dawsari Mosque, built by Rashid bin Fahd Al Dossari in 1931, according to the Abu Dhabi Culture website.Dalma Island, some 30km off the coast of Abu Dhabi, has a population of about 10,000, according to the Abu Dhabi Culture website. The island has an airport, schools, hospital and all modern amenities.
How to Reach Delma Since there are no road links to Dalma, visitors must rely on either a ferry or a plane. Abu Dhabi Maritime offers ferry services to Dalma from Jebel Dhanna, some 250km west of Abu Dhabi. Visitors are required to check on the Abu Dhabi Maritme to book and schedule their trip. Delma Motel is the only hotel on the island, but some villas and farmhouses are also available for rent. Winter is the ideal time to visit.In conversation with Aletihad, Latheef K.V, a long-time resident who runs a restaurant on the destination, said the island's tranquility makes it an ideal place for him. "The island offers fresh seasonal produce and has no dearth of fish. Visitors, mainly campers, flock to the island during weekends and public holidays," he added.
After a brief, serene isolation, adventurers and holidaymakers eventually hop aboard the ferry again and head back to their daily lives - waving goodbye to islanders, for whom tranquility is a way of life.