Inside Chanel's SS2025: How comfort, colour and Coco's spirit continue to define a haute couture revolution

Tatler Asia

23-05-2025

Gabrielle Chanel's philosophy that 'comfort has forms, love has colours' continues to guide her successors in their contemporary creations. As the maison celebrates 110 years of haute couture excellence, the arrival of its latest spring-summer collection in Hong Kong offers an intimate revelation of Chanel's enduring creative philosophy
Haute couture represents the apex of fashion creation. Its creators operate under strict regulations set by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Since its establishment in 1868, the governing body's core mandate has been to preserve centuries of French dressmaking expertise.
Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel made her haute couture debut in 1915, making Chanel the oldest couture house still in operation today. She established her first atelier in the southwestern French town of Biarritz and staffed it with 300 workers, who produced her debut haute couture collection. Requiring all handwork and at least 130 hours per piece, haute couture provided a platform for her to explore her revolutionary vision of modern luxury—the freedom of movement.
Above Chanel multicoloured tweed two-piece outfit
Above Chanel organza and tulle dress embellished with plumetis feathers and beads
During the presentation of the collection in Hong Kong, Chanel screened rare interview footage of the maison's eponymous designer, in which she addressed the essence of her approach. 'We move every second. I am moving constantly now, even when I don't intend to,' she says. 'A dress has to facilitate that and still look perfect when the wearer moves.'
Read more: Haute couture SS2025: Chanel's three silent transformations
'Comfort has forms' was, and still is, the foundation of every Chanel design. Take the classic tweed jacket, for example: subtle touches allow comfort of movement while ensuring the jacket's structured silhouette remains intact. The shorter length defined the body's proportions; sleeves were set high on the shoulder to liberate arm movement, while shoulders were slightly rounded to add a boldness to the overall silhouette. A delicate metal chain sewn into the lining kept the jacket's shape as the wearer moved. These basic structures remain to this day. For this season's iterations, silk crêpe is placed at the sleeves to amplify the elegance of movement.
Such is the essence of Chanel—transforming simple movements into refined elegance. Such details are thanks to the expertise of master seamstresses, led by the maison's première d'atelier (workshop leader), Jacqueline Mercier, known as Madame Jacqueline; and to the minimum 30 measurements and three fittings that each client undergoes.
Above From left: Chanel silk chiffon godet-panelled dress and tweed two-piece outfit with embellished camellias
Above Chanel chequered tweed vest jacket
While renowned for her revolutionary embrace of black, Chanel was a masterful orchestrator of colour, an approach the house continues to celebrate. The chromatic journey in this collection follows a complete cycle of day to night, beginning with a dawn-hued silk crêpe pyjama ensemble, transitioning through a sunshine yellow tweed suit and a lilac tweed dress with box pleats. A painted and embroidered white-and-black tweed suit gives way to an orange-pink coat layered over a purple jacquard dress, while a mimosa-hued dress suit adorned with pale pink flounces captures the day's warmest moments. The shoes, both flat and heeled, echo this progression in hues ranging from sky blue and violet to pristine white and cream.
The mastery of colour extends from exterior to interior: each lining either harmonises with the ensemble or creates bold contrast, offering surprises and adding depth to the complete look. Such devotion to inner beauty reflects another core Chanel principle, that 'elegance is being as beautiful inside as outside'.
Read more: Juno Mak on his latest film 'Sons of the Neon Night' and why Chanel fosters avant-garde projects
Above Chanel satin dress with sequins and lamé tweed godet coat
Unique pieces made with masterful artistry—Chanel's haute couture collection is at the pinnacle of sartorial value. Yet its virtuosity is subtle: there are no logos, and the maison's heritage speaks purely through signature silhouettes and design codes. It exists in the spaces between—where comfort meets elegance, structure embraces movement and exterior beauty converses with interior refinement.
Above Chanel silk chiffon godet-panelled dress
Above Chanel satin dress with sequins and lamé tweed godet coat
Credits
Photography: Ivan Wong
Styling: Madeleine Mak
Creative Direction: Zoe Yau
Hair: Dickson Chan, Ruth Lam
Make-Up: Kit Li, Jovy Chai
Set Design: Lit
Model: Sin Yan, Yee Tung @Self Management
Photographer's Assistant: Nick Lai, Haydn Yu
Styling: (Coordinator) Alix Lefebvre
Production: (Assistant) Carlos Hui