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Wanted: new sauces and dressings to jazz up weekday cooking

Wanted: new sauces and dressings to jazz up weekday cooking

The Guardian29-04-2025

What sauces and dressings can I make to rejuvenate weekday meals?Sauces and dressings give dinner life, making even the simplest meals taste better. The formula, says Gurdeep Loyal, author of Flavour Heroes (published in June), goes something like this: 'You need two things: a really good fat and a really good sour.' Sure, that fat could be oil, but it doesn't have to be. 'It could be an egg yolk, it could be avocado, but if it's oil, go for a flavoured one,' Loyal says, and in place of the usual acid suspects (vinegar or citrus), try the likes of gherkins, capers or preserved lemons instead. 'My go-tos are preserved lemon whizzed up with a bit of their brine, some garlic-infused olive oil and maple syrup. Or avocado blitzed with gherkins, gherkin brine, a bit of sugar, if you want, and perhaps herbs such as chives or tarragon. Or chilli-infused olive oil blitzed with a teaspoon of tamarind.' These powerhouses are a dream on pretty much anything, he says, from a roast kale salad with chickpeas to baked butter beans or even as a dip for pizza crusts.
For William Gleave, chef-patron of Sargasso in Margate, meanwhile, 'Something with anchovies is always nice, because it goes with so many things'. For him, a 'classic stolen/borrowed from the River Cafe' comes out tops: 'It's essentially a dressing with lots of chopped anchovy, grated garlic, red-wine vinegar, lemon juice, oil, black pepper and chilli flakes,' which is to say it's bright, umami-rich and versatile. 'Spoon that over everything from grilled fish to lamb or pork to crunchy veg, and it will feel as if you've put in a load of effort, even though it's super-simple.'
Another shortcut to big flavour is zhoug, says Marc Summer, founder of Bubala, which has just opened a third restaurant in London's Kings Cross. 'Whizz up a load of different herbs – coriander, parsley, mint – with oil, garlic and hawaij [a Yemeni spice blend with lots of black pepper, cumin and coriander].' That will transform meals in seconds: 'Add it to pasta for an amazing herby sauce, or to fried onions, much as you might a curry paste.'
Summer is also a big fan of crunches, especially when apricots are involved. 'Make it as you would a chilli crunch, with lots of fried shallots, garlic and Sichuan peppercorns, then add hot oil, dried apricots and harissa for a really amazing, smoky-sweet oil.' Drizzle over yoghurty roast carrots or blanch some noodles, add tahini and top with the crunch: 'That's so tasty.' And remember, it's the small things that count, so while the harissa's out, Summer suggests combining it with honey and using as a marinade for vegetables before roasting: 'That adds flavour quickly and puts a stop to same-old weekday meals.'
Tahini sauce, meanwhile, is Xanthe Ross's salvation': 'It feels indulgent,' says the author of Stay for Supper, 'and it'll instantly jazz up roast veg and salads, or use it as a dip.' You'll most likely have all the ingredients (tahini, lemon, olive oil, sometimes honey and water) knocking around, anyway. That said, you can't go far wrong with a classic vinaigrette, either, but mix up the vinegar element to keep things interesting. 'It's hard to make in small quantities, so have a batch in the fridge for the week,' she says. 'That's good on so many things beyond a green salad, such as tomatoes on toast for lunch, although the French might hate me for saying so.'
Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@theguardian.com

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The best fire pits of 2025 for summer nights in the garden, tried and tested
The best fire pits of 2025 for summer nights in the garden, tried and tested

Telegraph

time13 hours ago

  • Telegraph

The best fire pits of 2025 for summer nights in the garden, tried and tested

There's no better way to cap off a fine summer's day than cosying up with family and friends around a fire pit. From the earthy aroma of the fire to the crackling sound of burning wood and the drift of the smoke, the best fire pits engage all the senses and provide a relaxing focal point for evenings in the garden. Although they have been around for a while, their popularity is now rocketing along with that of solar garden lights and garden chairs as we spend more time outdoors, notes Martyn Wilson, an award-winning garden design expert. 'Perhaps it is something deep within us and the primeval need to create fire,' he says. 'It can be relaxing staring into the flames and just zoning out for a short while. Fire pits can extend the use of the garden later into the evening and offer a more ambient feel than patio heaters. They are also great for socialising – and you can cook marshmallows with the children.' 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How we test fire pits I judged the fire pits from the moment they arrived on my doorstep. How heavy were the boxes? How easy were they to unpack and assemble? Were the fire pits stylish? Did they have extra capabilities like grilling? I tested a variety of sizes and styles. Once I lit them, I noted how much heat and smoke they gave off and how quickly they cooled down. Other factors included how much wood they needed, how safe they were, how energy efficient and how easy they were to clean: you should never leave ashes in the bottom of a fire pit to get wet. If you want to spend more time enjoying your garden, you might also be interested in our guides to the best rattan furniture and inflatable hot tubs. Why you can trust Telegraph Recommended Our thorough, real-world tests will always help you find the best product. No manufacturer ever sees Telegraph Recommended reviews before publication and we don't accept payment in exchange for favourable reviews, nor do we allow brands to pay for placement in our articles. All reviews are based on independent expert opinion and our hands-on testing. Visit our Who We Are page to learn more. The best fire pits of 2025 1. Best Buy Fire Pit: Recycled Kadai Score: 9/10 We like: Family-made from recycled oil drums in India A kadai is a traditional Indian cooking vessel designed for curries, with curved sides and a deep, flat base. The company Kadai has taken inspiration from the silhouette and transformed it into an authentic fire bowl. This one is made from recycled oil drums by family workshops in India. The result is a rustic-looking fire pit made from metal plates welded together, with drop handles at the side. The handles don't get hot, so you can move the fire bowl without burning yourself. The kit also comes with Kadai beads, which makes it unique. They're tiny clay beads which lie at the bottom of the bowl to help with rainwater drainage and to stop any ash falling through to the ground. My only complaint is that the tiny drainage hole does frequently get clogged. The fire bowl comes with a removable grill so you can barbecue on top. I grilled some thick pork chops, which cooked through within half an hour. You also get some tongs and a wire brush to help with upkeep and fire-building. I'd recommend using kiln-dried logs with this excellent fire pit; otherwise you risk smoking out your companions. Key specifications 2. Best Value Fire Pit: BillyOh Astral 2-in-1 Fire Pit with BBQ Garden design firm BillyOh, possibly better known for their sheds and log cabins, have excelled with this 2-in-1 BBQ model, complete with laser cut moon and stars. It comes with a removable cooking grill, so you can easily cook over firewood or charcoal. There are drawbacks. The log capacity is not huge and there's no easy way to remove the ashes, except by waiting until they're cold and scooping them out. As a barbecue, there's no form of ventilation control, so you are basically cooking caveman-style over the embers. But the price is reasonable, the build quality is decent and you can bolt it together in 20 minutes. The perfect family fire pit on a bargain budget. Key specifications 3. Best Smokeless Firepit: Winnerwell Secondary Combustion Portable Grill Minimal smoke and convenient heating are top priorities for a firepit at home or on the campsite. This portable model from Winnerwell delivers on both. Its legs fold out, bringing the top up to camping chair height. You can also purchase some extension legs (£65.98, Amazon). All of the components feel robust and nicely finished. Speaking as someone who's not much good at lighting fires, this makes it easy work. The tall walls provide good protection against strong breezes, while the bottom vents let helpful airflow feed the fire. It burns brilliantly, providing plenty of warmth at a distance of several meters. I cooked a classic: Flump Minis, which toasted quickly over the flames. This model burns cleaner than most and produced relatively little smoke, even when I used scrap wood with a high moisture content (although performance was best when I burned seasoned firewood). This is all thanks to its secondary combustion. The effect, common to most 'smokeless' fire pits, is produced by a two-walled design which directs airflow to both the bottom and the top of the firepit. So, it burns your wood fuel inside the firepit and also combusts escaping smoke and ashes. It kicks in when the firepit gets hot, after around 10 to 20 minutes of heating. The extra flames are visible around the top edge of the firepit. Overall, I'm thoroughly impressed with this firepit. It's highly convenient, lights easily and looks great on the paving. As with other firepits, it's important to wear heat-resistant gloves during use. Save the toasting for your marshmallows (or Flumps). Key specifications 4. Best Fire Pit and BBQ: BioLite FirePit+ Score: 7/10 We like: The excellent hibachi grill function We don't like: The noise of the fan £187.93, Amazon The BioLite is a compact and portable fire-pit-and-cooking grill combination that can burn either firewood or charcoal. It arrived beautifully packaged and was simple to assemble – just two handles to screw in. The instructions on how to get it working are detailed, but very user friendly. It's small, so you wouldn't want many more than two or three people sitting around it. It would be ideal for small spaces like an urban back yard or a balcony. It's not as pretty as some others, but it has a unique selling point: a rechargeable battery that powers 51 air jets inside the chamber. These jets create a more uniform temperature and improve combustion. That means more reliable heat, but also less smoke – a common issue with fire pits – so your neighbours might be pleased if you choose this one. The fan is fairly noisy, so this model is better for a lively urban environment, rather than quiet spots. It really comes into its own if you fill the unit with charcoal instead of wood and use it as a hibachi-style grill. It cooks well and it was fun to bring grub to the fire pit experience. By combining the functions of fire pit and BBQ, the BioLite cuts down on expense and space. Those who love to have technology connected with everything in life will enjoy controlling it remotely from their phones. However, others might find that the design – a bit like a robotic dog – and the technology run against the spirit of the fire pit, which is communing with nature. Key specifications 5. Best Luxury Fire Pit: English Country Fireball (800mm) This is a very pricey fire pit and I was curious to see if it had the x-factor to justify the cost. The makers have hand-crafted beautiful countryside scenes into into a 6mm-walled steel ball, forming silhouettes of foxes, stags and trees that seem to move against the flames. The way the smoke swirled around the art evoked a late summer/early autumn woodland evening, making an enchanting focal point for the garden. In short, it is both of use and an ornament. The first downside you'll discover is that it's very heavy – my lower back was crying out the moment I began to lift it. It also needs a lot of wood, so the expense continues after you've forked out for the pit itself. However, the sculpture is so stunning that you're getting value out of this one even when it's not lit and it would be the perfect centrepiece to a large garden. You can buy an LED lighting kit so that it glows at night. The company also offers comfortable matching stools so you can look the part as you while away the evenings and dozens of other Fireball designs, including bespoke creations. (One wag commissioned a Death Star.) Key specifications Fire pit FAQs Are fire pits legal in the UK? Yes, fire pits are legal in the UK. 'But you do need to be respectful of your neighbours and be sure that you are not causing a nuisance with smoke,' says garden designer Martyn Wilson. He also recommends checking local legislation to see if you are in a smoke free zone. What is the best fuel to use in a fire pit? 'Try to use woods with a low moisture content, such as kiln-dried woods or well seasoned hardwoods,' says Wilson. Bio-ethanols formed from plant-based materials such as fermented sugar and plant based starches are also used for some more contemporary fire pits. 'They will tend to burn with less smoke,' Wilson says. Other units use gas or coal. How should I look after my fire pit? 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Gas-fuelled fire pits also produce little smoke relative to a traditional wood-fuelled fire pit, so they can be considered as an alternative 'smokeless' option. How long will a cast iron or steel fire pit last? The lifespan of a cast iron or steel fire pit can vary depending on the thickness and quality of the material, as well as on your usage habits, storage and maintenance. Retailers' estimates on the longevity of high-quality models range from around seven years to 25 years and longer. Steel and cast iron are both susceptible to oxidation, and the level of rusting often greatly influences the lifespan of a fire pit. The material will be likelier to rust if it is left in wet conditions or filled with moisture, or if the surface is scratched, dented or otherwise damaged. Try to find out the warranty terms via the manufacturer or retailer. This will guarantee a minimum lifespan, although many cast iron and steel fire pits can comfortably outlast the warranty period given proper care. 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Boots shoppers are obsessed with this £10 fragrance that smells like a 'summer holiday' - and it lasts all day long (grab it before it's gone!)
Boots shoppers are obsessed with this £10 fragrance that smells like a 'summer holiday' - and it lasts all day long (grab it before it's gone!)

Daily Mail​

time15 hours ago

  • Daily Mail​

Boots shoppers are obsessed with this £10 fragrance that smells like a 'summer holiday' - and it lasts all day long (grab it before it's gone!)

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I'm a fashion writer and these Phase Eight wedding guest dresses are on my summer wishlist
I'm a fashion writer and these Phase Eight wedding guest dresses are on my summer wishlist

The Sun

time20 hours ago

  • The Sun

I'm a fashion writer and these Phase Eight wedding guest dresses are on my summer wishlist

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