I swapped my sun holiday for a train trip to Europe's rainiest city

Metro

a day ago

In true British fashion, I'd always turned my nose up at the idea of a holiday that didn't involve heat.
The UK summer is unreliable at best, and if it wasn't sun, sea and sangria, really, I didn't want to know.
But my eyes were opened by Bergen, Norway's gateway to the fjords, a colourful city nestled between seven mountains and the dazzling western coastline.
The Scandinavian jewel may be small, but it punches above its weight with an abundance of natural beauty, fascinating history and a surprisingly eclectic food scene.
After spending four days there, this is my honest review of everything Bergen has to offer. (Spoiler: it gets five stars.)
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Bergen is easily accessible from the UK, with direct 90-minute flights from Manchester and London's Gatwick and Heathrow airports.
The city is known as 'the gateway to the fjords' for its location between the two largest fjords in the country — the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord.
Norway is renowned for these deep, water-filled valleys, carved by glaciers. The Scandinavian nation has over 1,000 of these scenic bad boys, more than any other country in the world.
I travelled to the Sognefjord via the Flåm Railway. Widely regarded as one of Europe's most beautiful train journeys, it passes snow-covered rock faces, cascading waterfalls and tiny mountain farms before winding its way down to the fjord's shore.
Before setting off, I checked the forecast only for my heart to sink when I saw highs of 8°C in Flåm, where I would be boarding a boat across two of the Sognefjord's branches.
But once on deck, insulated by a turtleneck, a fleece, a sweater and a puffer coat, I soon forgot about the wind biting at my nose and fingers.
The electric boat slid silently through the narrow passages, flanked by towering cliffs and lush green forest. I craned my neck to marvel at the unspoiled landscape and, busy taking it all in, I could barely feel the cold.
Western Norway is having its moment, but international interest brings the challenges of mass tourism.
Stein Ove Rolland, CEO of Fjord Norway, tells me that tours to this part of the world have become more popular in recent years, as experienced travellers seek something different to Europe's better-known destinations.
Experts believe the rise is linked to the growing number of travellers looking to explore colder climates. Known as coolcations, Google searches for 'cooler holidays' soared by 300% between 2023 and 2024, and interest shows no sign of waning.
Bergen, where temperatures rarely rise above 20°C even at the height of summer, definitely qualifies for this category.
Most tourists arrive between June and August, but there were already plenty of visitors during my trip in April.
The train journey was comfortably busy, but the boat was nearly full, and the local bus at the other end of the fjord struggled to accommodate the influx of passengers.
Norway seems nervous about accepting higher numbers of visitors. A tourism campaign was shelved last year over fears of the environmental impact, while local authorities could soon be allowed to charge tourist tax.
In Bergen, the daily number of cruise ship passengers has been capped at 8,000.
Stein tells me that while tourism has long been an integral part of the area, balancing the needs of guests and local residents can be difficult. He says the region is doing everything it can to protect the natural environment.
One way they are doing this, he says, is encouraging tourists to visit in the colder months.
'We no longer market the summer season specifically, but highlight how unique it is to experience Bergen and the surrounding areas in spring, autumn, and winter,' he explains.
'In these seasons, there is more space, the nature is just as spectacular, and the food reflects the different times of year.'
Bergen is officially Europe's rainiest city, averaging more than 200 rainy days per year, thanks to the surrounding mountains which trap moisture coming in from the North Sea.
But, thanks to the climate, it's perfect for nature lovers.
Ulriken, the tallest of Bergen's mountains at 643 metres, can be hiked in one to two hours. A cable car offers a stunning view of the windblown ridges and inhospitable North Sea that surround the city.
Mount Fløyen, meanwhile, boasts dense forest and winding trails within minutes of the city centre, with a funicular that goes right to the summit.
I was lucky with the weather, as locals often reminded me; it stayed dry for two of the three days I spent in Bergen.
When the rain finally came, on my last day in the city, it poured. But despite my aversion to damp climes, I found Bergen striking in the deluge.
The city's vibrant colours — rust-red roofs and emerald forest — held their own amid the silvery sheen of rain, and the downpour created a hushed atmosphere that was strangely comforting.
As a fair-weather traveller, I'm not used to packing for cold climates. Bergen in spring can experience everything from chilly temperatures to mild, pleasant days with rain and sunshine.
The essential clothing items I recommend packing for a tripare: A fleece or wool sweater
A windproof and waterproof jacket
A hat and gloves
Comfortable, waterproof shoes
Short and long-sleeved t-shirts for layering
As the rain moved in, I explored the narrow streets of Bryggen, a UNESCO World Heritage site in the centre of Bergen, dating back to the 12th-century.
The area was once central to the German Hanseatic League's trading empire because of stockfish, Norway's traditional (and highly divisive) dried cod.
Today, Bryggen's medieval legacy is preserved by the characteristic wooden buildings, restored with traditional methods, their colourful facades housing artisan shops, restaurants, and artist studios.
The district is home to the oldest restaurant in Bergen, Bryggen Tracteusted. The building has served many purposes, including as a courthouse and a school, since the 1700s.
Now, it serves local dishes including fish soup with delicate dumplings, juicy beetroot tartare and, of course, stockfish with seasonal trimmings.
Sloping heavily towards the harbour because of its age, Bryggen Tracteusted exudes old-world charm. Wood panelled walls, stone floors, candlelit rooms and fur throws draped on the back of chairs create a cosy retreat from the rain-slicked streets.
The four-course tasting menu, priced at 825 NKO (roughly £60), is as generous as it is delicious. The manager joked that the building tilts not from age, but so guests can roll home full and happy. More Trending
Back in my hotel room, warmed and full from creamy artichoke soup, white wine steamed cabbage and nutty rye bread, I scrolled through social media posts of a sunshine-filled weekend back home.
I didn't feel an ounce of jealousy.
Bergen, with its historic charm, natural beauty and cosy atmosphere, had warmed my spirit — even if it hadn't quite done the same for my body.
Getting there
I flew direct to Bergen with Jet2 from Manchester Airport. Return flights for May 2026 are priced at £131 per person one-way, and the airline also offers direct flights to the city from six other UK airports: Bristol, Edinburgh, London Stansted, Birmingham, Leeds Bradford and Newcastle, alongside three and four-night-long package breaks in the city.
Meanwhile, Norwegian offers direct return flights from London Gatwick from £114, via Skyscanner. From Bergen airport, it's a 20-minute drive to the city centre, or take the Bergen Light Rail.
The journey takes around 40 minutes and is free with a Bergen Card, which also offers discounts on some museums, attractions and restaurants.
Prices start at £30 for a 24-hour pass, and a four-day pass will set you back around £54.
Where to stay
I stayed at Thon Hotel Orion, a four-star establishment where rooms start from £153 per night.
Just a four-minute walk from Bryggen and ten minutes from Bergen's main square, the hotel has a gym, a bar and complimentary breakfast, with rooms ranging from a standard twin to a suite with a living room and kitchenette.
Thon Hotel Orion received a 2025 TripAdvisor Traveller's Choice Award, granted to properties ranked within the top 10% on the website.
Ellie Hutchings was a guest of Jet2 and Visit Bergen.
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