
Insiders Guide To The Most Iconic Neighborhood In Paris
A view of Paris stretching to the Champs Elysees, the Golden Triangle in the distance and the Eiffel Tower.
getty
Paris is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own distinct vibe. But if there's one area that best captures the city's mix of luxury, culture and history, it's the Golden Triangle.
Framed by three grand avenues—Montaigne, Champs-Élysées and George V—the Golden Triangle is where haute couture was born, where artists and bon vivants once held court and where travelers still come to get a taste of classic Paris. Some of the world's most famous landmarks are right nearby, including the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe.
The neighborhood is also home to a handful of places that have shaped its identity: the Hôtel Plaza Athénée (a storied hotel that helped launch the golden age of Parisian fashion), the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées (one of the city's most historic performing arts venues) and the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris (a museum dedicated to the legendary couturier).
To get an insider's look at what makes the Golden Triangle tick, I tapped into three experts who know it best: the trailblazing head concierge at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, the longtime director of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées and the visionary director of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. They share why this pretty pocket of Paris is worth visiting—and reveal their favorite tips and secret spots.
The exterior of the Hotel Plaza Athénée.
Masahiko TAKEDA
Set on Avenue Montaigne, the Hôtel Plaza Athénée is steeped in history. Over the years, it has attracted everyone from Grace Kelly to Emily in Paris. Christian Dior loved it so much he opened his first atelier next door in 1946 and used to show his collections in the hotel. Today, the Hôtel Plaza Athénée is home to the world's first Dior Spa.
'There's something very special about this hotel—it's indescribable,' head concierge Marine Leroux told me in an interview. Leroux started working at the Plaza Athénée as an intern, followed by stints at other luxury properties in Monaco and the south of France. In 2021, she was named head concierge, leading a team of more than 35 people. She is a rare woman to hold the job: one of only two women to have this position at a Parisian palace hotel.
Head concierge Marine Leroux.
courtesy of the Hotel Plaza Athenee
'I am a child of the Plaza. I was only 21 when I started. I've grown up here,' says Leroux, who finds inspiration in the property's 'personality and creativity.'
The Plaza's personality is undeniable: With its signature red awnings and 1,900 geraniums cascading from its balconies, it's one of the most recognizable hotels in Paris. The property often collaborates with artisans and artists like Beyonce, who took over Le Bar to showcase her new whisky brand. In winter, its central courtyard restaurant, La Cour Jardin, is transformed into an ice-skating rink. While most rooms nod to Louis XVI style with silk upholstery and antique furniture, the seventh and eighth floors are Art Deco. Many rooms have windows and balconies overlooking the Eiffel Tower.
The Dior Spa.
courtesy of the Hotel Plaza Athenee
The restaurants are also a big draw, from Jean Imbert au Plaza Athénée (where Michelin-starred chef Jean Imbert revives culinary traditions dating back centuries in an opulent dining room) to Le Relais Plaza (serving brasserie dishes in an Art Deco-style space).
'Of course, people are drawn to the Plaza for its beauty, but it's also the location,' says Leroux. 'Avenue Montaigne is peaceful but central. You can walk to the Eiffel Tower, the Seine or the Arc de Triomphe, but you're not in the middle of the chaos.'
The Haute Couture Suite with a view of the Eiffel Tower.
courtesy of the Hotel Plaza Athenee
Here, Leroux shares a few of her favorite spots around the neighborhood.
La Galerie Dior — Tucked behind the Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne, this museum offers a deep dive into the life and legacy of Christian Dior. 'You can learn about the history, but also see beautiful masterpieces—and take great pictures, which a lot of guests love,' says Leroux. And don't miss the cafe inside the flagship: 'They serve lots of pastries, and you can enjoy your tea. It's very nice, and it's a collaboration with our chef.'
Henry Jacques Perfume Atelier — For a truly Parisian souvenir, Leroux recommends this exclusive fragrance house. 'They create bespoke scents of the highest quality—it's really like an haute couture creation,' she says.
Arije — A hidden gem for jewelry and watches. 'It's a warm place where you feel comfortable, with a beautiful private salon that feels like a Parisian apartment overlooking the Golden Triangle,' says Leroux.
Kith — For a different shopping experience, Leroux recommends Kith, a streetwear-meets-luxury concept store. 'It's three floors of sneakers, fashion and design—it's something different from the usual shopping in Paris,' she says.
Crazy Horse — This legendary cabaret is just a few steps from the hotel. 'It's a small cabaret, very cozy, very surprising—with lots of modern choreography and collaborations with designers,' says Leroux.
A view of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.
getty
The Théâtre des Champs-Élysées has been at the heart of Paris's cultural life for more than a century. When it opened in 1913—the same year as the Plaza—he same year as the Hôtel Plaza Athénée—it was a sensation, not only for its bold concrete design (the first of its kind in Paris) but also for its audacious programming. "It's half a concert hall, half an opera house," Michel Franck, the longtime director of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées, told me in an interview. "It's half Carnegie Hall, half the Met."
Michel Franck, the longtime director of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées.
Cyprien Tollet
From the very beginning, the theater pushed artistic boundaries. It hosted the infamous 1913 premiere of The Rite of Spring by Stravinsky and Nijinsky, a performance so provocative that it sparked an onstage riot. "From one night to the next, we became famous all over the world," says Franck.
Today, the building remains virtually unchanged, with a beautifully preserved Art Deco interior, and the spirit of experimentation continues—with a mix of concerts, operas, ballets and collaborations with artists across disciplines.
For Franck, the magic of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées isn't just the historic setting—it's the human connection. 'A lot of artists prefer to come here because they know they'll feel at home,' says Franck. 'It's not just a venue, it's a house.'
The interior of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées.
Hartl-Meyer
After 15 years at the helm, Franck is stepping down this year—his replacement, Baptiste Charroing's first season will begin in September 2025—but Franck's legacy will live on in the generations of artists he has championed and the enduring warmth he has cultivated.
Here, Franck shares a few of his favorite places in and around the Golden Triangle.
Hôtel Plaza Athénée - 'It's stunning hotel. A lot of people go here after the theater. The courtyard where you can eat during the summer is just fantastic. And you've got this corridor where you can have tea,' says Franck.
Chez André - A classic Parisian institution just steps from the theater, Chez André has been serving traditional French cuisine since 1936. 'There are tourists, of course, but it's a very good brasserie with excellent French cooking,' says Franck, who recommends the fries, the blanquette de veau and the wine.
Musée Guimet — Franck loves this Asian art museum for its extraordinary collections of Japanese prints and Chinese ceramics.
Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris — Just beyond the Golden Triangle, this modern art museum is a hidden gem. 'The exhibitions are wonderful, and in summer, the terrace overlooking the Seine is fantastic,' says Franck.
The exterior of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris.
courtesy of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris
Located just steps from Avenue Montaigne, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris offers a rate glimpse inside of the world of the legendary fashion designer. Housed in the historic atelier where Saint Laurent created his collections for nearly 30 years, the museum is both a time capsule and a creative incubator.
Elsa Janssen, director of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris
courtesy of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris
'Our role, with the museum's team is to take care of the Museum's amazing collection which includes notably 8000 haute couture pieces,' Elsa Janssen, the museum's director, told me in an interview. 'We also highlight this collection through temporary exhibitions at the Museum in Paris and other exhibitions all over the world in partnership with French and foreign institutions.'
Visitors can tour Saint Laurent's original studio, with its books, sketches and personal objects. In addition to showcasing Saint Laurent's garments, drawings and accessories, the museum regularly invites contemporary artists to stage shows. 'The museum is both a venue steeped in history and a place for the future,' says Janssen.
This summer, the museum's reach will expand to the south of France. From July 7 to October 6, the exhibition 'Yves Saint Laurent and Photography' will take place at La Mécanique Générale in Arles, showcasing original prints by icons like Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton, along with rare press archives, personal photographs and contact sheets.
For Janssen, one of the great pleasures of the Golden Triangle is its cultural density. 'I love being surrounded by museums,' she says, pointing to the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris, the Palais Galliera and the Palais de Tokyo as some of her favorites.
Best restaurants: When she's not at the museum, you'll find Janssen relaxing at Forest (the restaurant at the Modern Art Museum) or at Les Petites Mains (the seasonal outdoor café at the Palais Galliera).
Best shopping: For shopping, Janssen loves the Saint Laurent boutique on Avenue Montaigne and the Palais de Tokyo's bookshop, a trove of art books and quirky finds.
Best hidden gem: And for a peaceful escape, she suggests this scenic walk. 'You can cross the Alma's bridge and have a walk in the Musée du Quai Branly's gardens,' says Janssen.
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These moments of idle nothingness—or acute presence—are a source of nostalgia for me in part because they belong to the aimlessness of youth, and because our phones have since become a constant portal to somewhere else. But they also make me wistful because this sense of time out of time feels so very French. Think of the languidness of a French meal, with its aperitif, entrée, plat, fromage, dessert, café. Or the nation's incredible shrinking workweek—now 35 hours, by law—in favor of more leisure time for love affairs and philosophical debates. Or the month of August, when no one is around. Or strikes, when everything stops. Or the years it takes to make good cheese and wine. Or that glorious description of the concept underlying the country's internet-privacy laws: ' the right to be forgotten.' This whole cultural preference seemed to have been hand-rolled into every cigarette. 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What Sartre was articulating—a life of enjoyment, of savoring those evening meals and the theater and mornings spent lost in thought—can be hard to come by in our world. Did smoking help those moments materialize out of our otherwise hectic lives? Maybe. For the French, I always sensed that smoking, even when its dangers were well known, was almost an illustration of existentialism. The act seemed in some way to distill the central idea of that most French of philosophies: True freedom is terrifying because it means taking responsibility for every single choice we make. But not taking responsibility is worse—it is to live in bad faith. Smoking, that controlled flirtation with death, is the perfect test of this proposition. You know it's bad for you; you do it anyway, fully aware that you are taking your fate in your own hands. Maybe this is also why the cigarette has always signified rebellion—especially for women living in cultures bent on circumscribing their choices. 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