&w=3840&q=100)
Chhattisgarh's hidden temples await rediscovery as peace returns to the heartland
Rajim is just one example of a magnificent temple town in Chhattisgarh. Temples such as the Bhoramdev and shrines in Malhar and Tala show the larger narrative of temple architecture in the state read more
Over the last year, India's security forces have achieved immense success in going after the Naxals and systematically reducing the area under their influence. While the benefits of this will be seen across many states, perhaps the greatest impact could well be in Chhattisgarh. Not just from the perspective of the state becoming a more important destination for manufacturing and industrialisation but also for tourism.
While the forest state is known for its wildlife and for the architectural heritage of Sirpur, what is less known are its fine temples and the spiritual traditions associated with them. Among the most interesting places for an explorer is the temple town of Rajim, less than an hour from Raipur's airport. The town is built at the point where the Mahanadi River meets the Pairi and Sondur rivers, leading the place to be sometimes called Chhattisgarh's Prayag.
STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD
Over a thousand years ago, Rajim witnessed the construction of the Rajiv Lochan Temple, dedicated to Vishnu. Today, the temple stands in a large complex. In four corners are subsidiary shrines, dedicated to Narasimha, Varaha, Vaman and Badrinath, respectively. The white paint that has been applied generously on all parts has not been able to mask the antiquity of the temples. What is interesting is that in most structures here, the doorways and pillars have been left free of the paint, and it is these aspects that are most visually striking. Throughout the complex, the pillars of the shrines are heavily sculpted, some almost to their full height and all four sides. Various gods and goddesses, nagas, and other divine beings are depicted as being amongst forest and vegetation.
Outer view of the Rajiv Lochan Temple
This pattern runs true in the main Rajiv Lochan Temple as well. Every pillar in the temple mandapa is striking. The incarnations of Vishnu get pride of place, while various other celestial beings are also visible. Some of the divine beings are depicted in such a life-size and lifelike manner that one almost expects them to step out of the pillars in real form.
A pillar with a Narasimha carved on it, inside the mandapa of the Rajiv Lochan Temple
Pillars of the Ramachandra Temple at Rajim
The doorway to the inner sanctum is similarly ornate, every inch of it carved with icons. There is an outer column of nagas, a middle one of amorous figures and an inner column showing floral vegetation. At the top, the figures meet an icon of Vishnu, seated on top of Garuda. Inside the sanctum is a standing Vishnu with four arms, as lifelike as the icons in the mandapa.
Inner view of the sanctum gateway of the Rajiv Lochan Temple at Rajim
Inscriptions found within the temple have dated it to the 7th–8th century CE period, though Alexander Cunningham, founder of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), felt it was older. The most authentic inscription mentions its patron builder as being one Vilasatunga of the Nala dynasty and mentions the early 8th century period as the construction date. However, a second inscription mentions a 12th-century date. In all probability, the temple was first built in the 7th century and then modified in various eras, and what we see today is a cumulative result of the work over many centuries.
STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD
In a town filled with temples, the other popular one is the Kuleshwar Mahadev, located at the point of the confluence. During the monsoon months, it becomes an island. This temple and the entire town see a surge of pilgrims during Mahashivaratri each year. Less well known and accessible through a narrow lane from behind the Rajiv Lochan is the Ramachandra Temple. From the outside, this shrine could pass off as mediaeval. The familiar white paint covers most of its exterior. Taking a single step into its mandapa leaves a visitor stunned.
The number of carved pillars within the mandapa is incredible – they look far in excess of what is needed to support the roof and walls. Each is carved with detailed iconography. However, a closer look reveals something interesting. The pillars in the middle of the mandapa are reddish in colour and depict figures standing under vegetation. They conform to the patterns seen on the doorway and lintel leading to the main shrine. The pillars built into walls of the side are a different shade and have specific icons carved on them, such as Varaha.
STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD
The latter carvings are far more detailed than those in the middle of the mandapa. Could these varying types of pillars belong to two different periods of construction? Cunningham, in his 1884 report, says that the temple was built between 250 and 400 years earlier. However, he notes that this shrine had incorporated the material of one or more earlier temples, and those could possibly date to the 5th to 7th century CE. There appear to be shrines within shrines in this atmospheric town.
Some accounts link Rajim's spiritual significance to the Jagannatha Temple in Puri. Apparently, pilgrims used to pay obeisance at the Rajiv Lochan before making their way to Puri, nearly six hundred kilometres away on the coast. And Rajim is just one example of a magnificent temple town in Chhattisgarh. Temples such as the Bhoramdev and shrines in Malhar and Tala show the larger narrative of temple architecture in the state.
STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD
And now, with the Naxal movement hopefully on its last leg, the next vista to be opened up in Chhattisgarh will be the temples of the vast Bastar region. Temples like Danteshwari, a Shaktipeeth shrine whose history is associated with the Kakatiya ruler Pratap Rudra. One hopes to share the story of the Danteshwari soon!
The author is a heritage explorer with a penchant for seeking obscure sites. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost's views.

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
&w=3840&q=100)

First Post
a day ago
- First Post
Beyond Digha: Bengal's temple glory already shines in Kalna
Recent weeks saw a spat between the Governments of Odisha and West Bengal over the latter naming a newly built temple at Digha as 'Jagannath Dham'. Odisha's point of contention was over the word 'Dham' – it being attributable only to the much older and deeply revered shrine at Puri. Eventually, the other state blinked and the Digha temple dropped 'Dham'. While the West Bengal Government has built a magnificent replica of the Puri Temple at Digha, with sandstone sourced from Rajasthan and marble from as far away as Vietnam, they would do well in bringing more focus on stunning temples that already exist in their heartland. Temples such as those at Ambika Kalna, usually referred to simply as Kalna. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD Located about 90 kilometres north of Kolkata in Purba Bardhaman district, Kalna first finds mention in the 6th century CE Kubjika Tantra – 'Kubjika' being a manifestation of Shakti. A strategic location on the banks of the Bhagirathi River gave it importance as a port during the time of the Tamralipta kingdom. Its finest hour came in the 18th and 19th centuries when the rulers of Bardhaman built a series of temples here. However, the finding of two Vishnu idols dating to the 10th and 11th centuries CE indicates unbroken traditions of faith. A visitor to the town today sees the green countryside give way to narrow lanes and then a large central space, usually with visitors from Kolkata. The centre of attention, and sometimes the sole focus are the Nava Kailasha temples here. Built in 1809 under the patronage of the Bardhaman ruler Tej Chandra Bahadur, the complex comprises 108 temples built in two concentric circles – an outer circle with 74 shrines and an inner one with 34. Each shrine contains a Shiva linga, with the lingas in the outer circle alternating in black granite and white marble while those in the inner shrines are white. Close view of one of the temples that form the Nava Kailasha temple complex Most first-time visitors tend to get a surprise when they come out of the Nava Kailasha complex and look around. Separated by a narrow road from the Nava Kailasha is the much bigger Kalna Rajbari temple complex, with some of the most ornate terracotta temples ever built. In fact, the temples spread beyond this complex and through the town, inviting visitors to explore its by-lanes. First within the complex is the Pratapeshwar Temple. Built in 1849 under the guidance of Tej Chandra Bahadur's daughter in law, the temple is a riot of terracotta carving, the intricacy of which is on par with the best of Bishnupur, considered the acme of terracotta shrine-making. Prominent in the mythological stories depicted are the battle between Rama and Ravana, Rama and Sita sitting on a throne, scenes from the Krishna Leela, Durga as Mahisasuramardini and others. The temple is entered via a gateway in front, and the doors on the other three sides are merely decorative, providing space for more artistic expression. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD The ornate exterior of the Pratapeshwar Temple at Ambika Kalna Depiction of the battle between Ravana and Rama with Mahisasuramardini Durga in the middle, on the Pratapeshwar Temple Deeper in the complex is the Lalji Temple, dating to 1739 making it the oldest temple here. Built under the patronage of the ruler Kirti Chand Rai for his mother Braja Kishori Devi, its unique feature is that it is a 'Panchavimasati' temple, referring to its twenty-five pinnacles. It is only one of five shrines that have this feature, and it is interesting to note that two of the others are also in Ambika Kalna. In front of this temple is a mandapa which seems to date to a later period, and whose exterior is rich with carved creatures, ranging from peacocks to crocodiles. The Lalji Temple with its twenty five pinnacles Another aspect of the main Lalji Temple structure that stands out are the edges of the shrine's corner walls. These protrude out and have carvings running from top to bottom, depicting a range of stories and mythical creatures. These vertically carved panels are called 'Mrityulatas', so named as every row of human and animal figures shown here looks poised to attack the figure below. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD Inside view of the sanctum of the Lalji Temple Some temple experts hold that the Mrityulatas are a carry forward of the tradition of wooden chariot making in Bengal, which had such figures depicted in vertical panels at the corners. Since the chariot makers were from the same community that moved into the temple building, the designs came with them. Close view of a Mrityulata outside the Lalji Temple at Ambika Kalna Next up comes the Krishna Chandraji Temple, also a Panchavimasati-styled shrine. Continuing the tradition seen at the Lalji Temple, this one too was built by a Bardhama ruler in the memory of his mother - Raja Tilok Chandra for Lakshmi Devi. The same ruler also built the Vijay Vaidyanath shrine nearby. Completed in 1751, the Krishna Chandra lives up to its name by incredible depictions of the life and deeds of Krishna. Also prominent in the complex is a Rasmancha, which retains a dome in the middle but has lost other parts of its roof. One can imagine this place coming alive with music and song centuries ago, during the Raas Festival. It still looks dramatic when lit up in the evening. STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD Outside the Rajbari Temple complex are more shrines, such as the Ratnesvara, Jalesvara and Rupesvara, to name a few. Each has its own features and design. The design variations at Ambika Kalna are such that an explorer gets glimpses of divergent styles of temple design in one place itself. The town also has several mosques as well as a Buddha temple. The latter has a gold-plated Buddha idol which came from Thailand and its original stone Buddha idol, said to be of Burmese origin. There is a small Theravada Buddhist community in residence. In a place with such a rich tradition of temple building, it comes as no surprise that Kalna has many educational institutions whose names are prefixed with Mahishmardini, Nigamananda, Mayasundari and Gajalaxmi. Truly an abode of the Gods! When you have an Ambika Kalna, do you really need to try and acquire 'Dham' status for a newly built temple? STORY CONTINUES BELOW THIS AD The author is a heritage explorer with a penchant for seeking obscure sites. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost's views.


Time of India
2 days ago
- Time of India
Gaya Ji: A global pilgrimage hub
1 2 3 4 5 6 Gaya: One of the oldest cities in Bihar, the mythological and sacred land of Gaya has now been officially renamed as Gaya Ji, a move resonating with spiritual reverence and historical pride. Etched deep into India's cultural consciousness, Gaya Ji commands international attention for more than one reason. Considered the holy abode of Lord Vishnu, it is here, according to the ancient epic Ramayana, that Lord Rama, the incarnation of Vishnu, performed the pinddaan ritual for his father, King Dasharatha. Legends place this city's existence as far back as the Treta Yuga, several millennia ago. Renowned globally for the Pitripaksh Mela, a fortnight-long observance held annually during the Krishna Paksha of the Ashwin month (as per the Hindu calendar), Gaya Ji draws lakhs of pilgrims seeking to honour their ancestors. It is also Bihar's only city with international flight operations and is celebrated for its iconic local sweet, tilkut. Gaya Ji is a land of stirring tales, none more inspiring than that of Dashrath Manjhi, the legendary 'Mountain Man' who, with nothing but a hammer and chisel, carved a 360-foot-long, 30-foot-wide road through a hill over 22 relentless years. The city also takes pride in producing top-tier engineering talent, especially from Patwa Toli, a locality known for its weaver families and academic ambition, often sending students to the prestigious IITs. The spiritual heart of Gaya Ji beats within the sacred walls of Vishnupad Temple and extends to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site, the Mahabodhi Mahavihara in Bodh Gaya. The former is a revered destination for Hindu devotees while the latter is a spiritual beacon for Buddhists worldwide. The city's significance is reflected in the rising tide of pilgrims and tourists. According to Gaya district administration, at least 23 lakh pilgrims performed pinddaan in Gaya Ji during the most recent Pitripaksh, a sharp increase from 15 lakh in 2023 and 13 lakh in 2022. According to the state tourism department, around 40 lakh domestic and international guests visited the Mahabodhi Mahavihara in 2024 alone. Beyond its spiritual magnetism, Gaya Ji is also set for a dynamic transformation. With a 1,670-acre integrated manufacturing cluster under development in Dobhi block, the city is gearing up to mark its presence on the industrial map with ambitions likened to Noida. Adding to its strategic importance, the Amritsar-Delhi-Kolkata Industrial Corridor (AKIC) will pass through Gaya Ji, linking it with six other states – Punjab, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Jharkhand and West Bengal. Looking ahead, the completion of the Vishnupad Corridor and Mahabodhi Corridor, announced in the Union Budget, will further elevate the twin cities of Gaya Ji and Bodh Gaya as hubs of pilgrimage and tourism. With this anticipated surge in footfall and business activity, the local economy is expected to flourish, bringing with it increased employment and prosperity. Pramod Kumar Sinha, a Vaastu and numerology expert and vice-president of the All India Federation of Astrologers' Societies (AIFAS), offered a metaphysical perspective. "Study of the new name Gaya Ji shows that the religious, spiritual, academic reputation of the city and the mental progress of people living here will increase. There will be an increase in the fame and popularity of the city in the country and abroad. There will be opportunities to achieve rapid progress in mental, intellectual and economic progress of the people living here," he said.


Hindustan Times
5 days ago
- Hindustan Times
Uttarakhand cabinet approves Lord Vishnu icon constructions at Badrinath
The Uttarakhand cabinet on Wednesday approved the construction of icons associated with Lord Vishnu at the Badrinath temple complex as part of its redevelopment master plan. The four projects include a Sheshnetra Lotus Wall to be built at the Badrinath lakefront, a Sudarshan Chakra sculpture to be erected at the Badrinath arrival plaza, a Sudarshan Chowk 'kalakriti' (artwork) to be installed at the same spot and a tree and river sculpture at Badrinarayan Chowk within the Himalayan temple's premises. Located at a height of more than 10,000 feet from the sea level, the temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Informing the media about the decisions taken by the state cabinet, Shailesh Bagauli, Secretary to Chief Minister Pushkar Singh Dhami, said. The projects have been conceived by the Tourism Department under the Badrinath redevelopment master plan. Their implementation will either be funded under Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), or by the Centre or the state government, he said. The cabinet also gave its approval to restructure the Uttarakhand Human Rights Commission by creating 12 new posts in addition to the 47 already in existence. The cabinet also approved the creation of 15 new posts in the Uttarakhand Subordinate Service Selection Commission apart from the 62 already in existence for its better functioning. The cabinet decided to exempt only plug-in hybrid electric vehicles and strong hybrid electric vehicles from the motor vehicle tax payable under the new rule 125 'M' of the Central Motor Vehicles (Ninth Amendment) Rules, 2023. The objective of the decision is to encourage vehicle owners to purchase and use vehicles of the said category and also to reduce pollution. The tax exemption will be valid only once in the current financial year 2025-26, Bagauli said.