Look beyond New Zealand's ‘big' resorts for a more serene ski adventure

Should you boycott the US? The 20 biggest questions in travel right now

Sydney Morning Herald

an hour ago

Sydney Morning Herald

Should you boycott the US? The 20 biggest questions in travel right now

Hauf says the best practice is for carbon emissions to be removed or reduced where they are generated, if possible. If we must fly, 'carbon removal through carbon-offset projects is a crucial part of the global emissions reduction journey, not least because for some industries, like aviation, the technologies to get to zero emissions do not yet exist commercially'. However, she believes it's essential to have 'a robust and transparent national carbon accounting system'. It's worth checking your airline's carbon offset program to see where your money is going and whether it aligns with your values. I love cruising but realise it's another form of travel with a big environmental footprint. How do I choose the right cruise line and what can I possibly do to help the planet while I'm on board and on shore? Natalie Cherry, owner of Queensland's Noosa Cruise & Travel, a member of the Virtuoso ( group of luxury travel advisers, says today's concerned cruisers have the option of choosing a cruise line based on how proactive it is in reducing its impact on the environment. 'You could look to see [the nature of] their investment and implementation of sustainable practices. Consider choosing a smaller vessel both for the environment and to reduce the over-tourism in ports. Ideally, a ship that uses LNG and battery power in places like Antarctica and the Arctic.' It's not just engine power that travellers should consider. It's the kind of basic things nowadays such as food waste management and whether single-use plastics have been eliminated. Does the company partner with local suppliers to support local economies? How does it manage its excursions so as not to disrupt host communities? Does it give back to communities and climate science through foundations it has initiated, such as those run by upscale cruise lines Ponant and Hurtigruten? On shore, passengers should aim to spend generously in local communities and avoid tours herded in large groups. While the ship itself may not tread lightly, you still can. Everyone says travelling by train is the way to go to help save the planet, but how clean is rail really? Aren't plenty of trains around the world propelled by diesel rather than electricity? 'Rail travel has a much lower fuel consumption and emissions profile than other modes of transport,' says Liam Davies, associate director of the Melbourne-based Institute for Sensible Transport. 'While electric trains can be zero emission, when run on renewables, diesel trains do have an emissions impact. However, this is much lower than planes. The single biggest thing we can do to reduce our emissions when travelling is to use trains wherever possible. Trains have a small fraction of the emissions profile of planes; in France, high-speed trains emit just 2 per cent of the CO2 of a plane travelling the same route.' Even though Australians wishing to see the world have no option but to fly overseas, once there, 'popular destinations like Europe, Japan and China all have great rail networks, with many high-speed rail options, and some incredibly scenic regular-speed rail too. Taking the train sometimes takes a little bit longer, but you can sit back and enjoy the view, knowing you are reducing your personal emissions by travelling in a lower impact way'. I'm considering a visit to Saudi Arabia. Should I go? 'Everywhere we travel comes with risks and considerations,' says Sean Martin, managing director of Australia, Asia and New Zealand at G Adventures. 'Saudi Arabia is open to tourism, but I'd encourage each traveller to make an informed decision for themselves before going. If you do choose to go, there are so many incredible female-owned businesses there that you can choose to support, and you can put your tourism dollar into businesses and communities that are marginalised. We shouldn't underestimate the force for good that tourism presents. We have the opportunity to distribute wealth through travel and to empower communities that need it the most.' And what about Antarctica? Denise Sablone, executive vice-president of tour development at US-based escorted journeys operator Collette, advises travellers worried about their personal impact on the White Continent to choose companies regulated by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) and the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). 'A less harmful way to visit the most precious and important places on our planet includes small ships with teams of naturalists and scientists on board that can positively educate and influence their guests,' says G Adventures' Martin. Expedition cruise ships can play a crucial role in monitoring the fragile ecosystems of the polar regions. 'We see our travellers as ambassadors, who we know will come back with even more respect and interest in caring for the planet than what they left with.' US President Donald Trump has pulled the US out of the Paris Agreement for a second time. Does it mean I shouldn't visit the US? As of early January, only three countries had not ratified the Paris Agreement, a legally binding international treaty on climate change – Iran, Libya and Yemen. However, Trump withdrew the US from the agreement soon after inauguration, meaning the US is no longer required to provide annual updates on its greenhouse gas emissions. But is the only ethical path for the environmentally conscious traveller to boycott the country? We note the US government doesn't necessarily reflect the feelings of its people on this issue. Hundreds of thousands of Americans have come out in recent times to protest the present administration on many grounds, from tariffs to immigration and environmental policies. The issue for travellers now is also one of personal safety and stringent border control. Are we welcome as visitors to the US? This is a yardstick the thinking traveller should apply to every country they wish to visit. Tipping has become a big issue, even for some Americans. If I do visit the States, should I resist tipping? Isn't it just another kind of tariff? 'When visiting any destination, we know we should be mindful and considerate of the local norms and ways of life,' says Roland Howlett, owner of Virtuoso member travel agency Frontier Travel. 'Tipping in the US is no different. It is deeply embedded in the culture and is a critical part of how many service workers earn their income. Embrace it, and you'll find you enjoy travelling around the US a lot more.' Noosa Cruise & Travel's Natalie Cherry says travellers should always check their bills first as there may already be a tip included. 'Be mindful that their wages are incredibly low, so they rely on a service fee. In general, because of this, they do give exceptional service, so be kind and grateful for this and show your appreciation.' Are there any truly ethical hotel brands I can choose? And how do we know the difference? What do we look for? 'When it comes to ethics, the best thing to look for is always a business that really invests in its people, and the local community,' says sustainable luxury travel expert Juliet Kinsman. 'For me, economic sustainability is what's key. Seek out an independent hotel where the owners have a meaningful connection to that place and are quite literally invested; you know your cash is more likely contributing to them looking after all that's on their doorstep.' Kinsman recommends resources such as The Long Run, Regenerative Travel as well as her own list, Bouteco Loves. Does replacing small plastic water bottles and straws in hotels really make much difference? 'The collective impact of the movement away from single-use plastic in hotels is really powerful and does make a difference,' says Elissa Keenan, chief executive of Ecotourism Australia. 'If people don't think small changes make a difference, I challenge their thinking.' As she points out, one of the single biggest risks to the three species of turtles listed as endangered and three species listed as vulnerable in Australia is plastic pollution. 'Plastic pollution is deadly to sea turtles through ingestion leading to starvation, internal injuries or entanglement resulting in life-threatening injuries. For anyone who has snorkelled or swum with these majestic creatures, or who has dreams of doing so, making small changes cannot be undervalued.' How much so-called greenwashing is really going on, and how can we call it out? 'Yes, there's impact-washing galore,' Kinsman says. 'But dig a little deeper, or to really do your due diligence, give the hotel a call (when did anyone last do that?) and you'll soon get a sense of whether their good work is the real deal or if their virtue signalling is a load of blarney.' She's all for calling out 'greenshifting' (when a hotel doesn't take responsibility for its failings, such as plastic water bottles, and they shift the blame, saying guests insist on single use) and 'greenrinsing' (when they keep changing their targets before achieving them, such as declaring net zero by 2025 but still running on diesel generators). But she's also supportive of 'greenlighting', which she defines as spotlighting the good of an operator, even if it's not 'eco through and through'. Do hotels that want you to keep the white towels and not change the sheets really want to help save the world or just their own bottom line? 'What we definitely need is fewer expressions of being conscious or sustainable without substantiated facts,' says luxury travel expert Kinsman. If a hotel is going to claim a 'nature positive' or 'ocean-friendly' label, they need to back it up with hard evidence. 'Considering laundry gobbles up a huge part of their energy and water budgets, I don't care if they're cutting their turnover for economic benefits, as long as the end result is that they can actually reduce the amount of towels and sheets and all the detergents they use and the fibres they release into our waterways.' How do you know the money you donate to a social enterprise is really going to the right cause? Collette's Sablone says social enterprises typically measure their impact through monitoring and evaluation, tracking the outcomes of their activities to confirm they are making a positive difference in their communities. Resources such as annual reports and partnership pages can be utilised to verify that donations are being used correctly. Transparency and trust are key when supporting social enterprises. 'Don't be afraid to ask many questions and to demand the details, and to see accountability being practised,' says G Adventures' Martin. 'Overtourism occurs when too many visitors flock to a destination, exceeding the local capacity to manage them sustainably,' says Mat Woods, chief executive of New Zealand's Destination Queenstown. 'This can lead to overcrowding, environmental degradation, strained infrastructure, reduced quality of life for residents and a diminished visitor experience.' But places can have both healthy tourist numbers and a happy community if tourism is managed correctly. Queenstown, says Woods, is a good example due to its destination management plan, which outlines a vision for regenerative tourism, with local community input to ensure the region thrives not just economically, but also socially, culturally and environmentally. 'A great place to holiday is a great place to live, so balance is the key,' Keenan adds. What can I do personally to help combat overtourism? Should I just skip places such as Paris, Rome and Venice? When people think of overtourism, they instantly think of 'bucket-list' hotspots such as Paris and Venice, G Adventures' Martin says. 'But what many don't think about is the idea that overtourism can affect small, remote communities as well. Travel should be seen as a force for good, and we shouldn't react to overtourism by turning our back on any one place, city or town. You don't need to rule out a tourist favourite to combat overtourism; you just need to be mindful and conscious about the best way and time to see it.' You can help ease the pressure on a destination by travelling more mindfully, staying longer, travelling off-peak and exploring alternative destinations and second cities. Consider holidaying at home as well, says Keenan, of Ecotourism Australia. 'We are so lucky in Australia to have so many incredible places to go with virtually no crowds. Travellers are increasingly looking for immersive and untouched experiences – we have these in spades right here.' How can I tell if a destination really is doing the right thing? Look closely at its marketing and storytelling, and how it engages with local communities and the environment, says Destination Queenstown's Woods. 'Look for initiatives that both strengthen the economic resilience of the destination and foster connections between visitors, community and those which protect the environment.' I know you shouldn't ride elephants, so is it still OK to ride other animals like camels? 'Whatever the activity, ensure the animal's mental as well as physical needs are provided for,' says John Roberts, group director of sustainability and conservation at the Minor Hotels group. The most important message is to look for science-based welfare certification from any animal excursion, no matter the species, to guarantee the best of care. Is there any way I can pack for a trip that's better for the planet? Packing light reduces your carbon footprint and makes it easier to use trains and buses and not rely on less environmentally forgiving private transportation, says Ecotourism Australia's Keenan. 'Consider whether you really need to buy certain items before you go. If you really want to [do so], purchase them from small businesses or markets in your destination, helping the money stay in that local community.' Loading What's the feeling these days about visiting and supporting zoos around the world? There's still a place for zoos, says Minor Hotels' Roberts, since it's still not possible for everyone to travel to view creatures in the wild and to be inspired to care for the natural world. A licensed and well-regulated zoo, for instance a member of the World Association of Zoos & Aquaria, will be providing the best possible care and, most importantly, will be prevented from being part of the illegal wildlife trade and other anti-conservation measures.' How can I choose an ethical safari, as wild animals can be crowded on some tours? Travel with a company that plays a part in conservation or pays extra for exclusivity, ideally with a local community as benefactors, says Roberts. 'Certainly, it's better for the animals' wellbeing not to be overcrowded, and for conservation in general, but it does come at a price point that excludes the vast majority of people. But overcrowding problems come when the experience is too convenient and cheap.' PLEASE EXPLAIN: WHAT IT ALL MEANS Sustainability Development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. Greenwashing The act of making false or misleading statements about the environmental benefits of a product or practice. Carbon offsets A system of credits used by a company or organisation to compensate for what they are emitting, thereby decreasing their net emissions. Loading Single-use plastic Items such as cling-wrap and plastic straws that are designed for one use only before being discarded. Social enterprise A business designed to achieve specific social objectives as its primary purpose, benefiting marginalised or economically disadvantaged groups by permanently improving their socioeconomic conditions. Regenerative tourism Leaving places you visit in a better state than you found them. Paris Agreement A legally binding international treaty, entered into force in November 2016, with the goal to reduce global greenhouse gas emissions and hold global temperature increase to well below 2°C above pre-industrial levels and pursue efforts to limit it to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels.

The Age

an hour ago

The Age

Should you boycott the US? The 20 biggest questions in travel right now

Hauf says the best practice is for carbon emissions to be removed or reduced where they are generated, if possible. If we must fly, 'carbon removal through carbon-offset projects is a crucial part of the global emissions reduction journey, not least because for some industries, like aviation, the technologies to get to zero emissions do not yet exist commercially'. However, she believes it's essential to have 'a robust and transparent national carbon accounting system'. It's worth checking your airline's carbon offset program to see where your money is going and whether it aligns with your values. I love cruising but realise it's another form of travel with a big environmental footprint. How do I choose the right cruise line and what can I possibly do to help the planet while I'm on board and on shore? Natalie Cherry, owner of Queensland's Noosa Cruise & Travel, a member of the Virtuoso ( group of luxury travel advisers, says today's concerned cruisers have the option of choosing a cruise line based on how proactive it is in reducing its impact on the environment. 'You could look to see [the nature of] their investment and implementation of sustainable practices. Consider choosing a smaller vessel both for the environment and to reduce the over-tourism in ports. Ideally, a ship that uses LNG and battery power in places like Antarctica and the Arctic.' It's not just engine power that travellers should consider. It's the kind of basic things nowadays such as food waste management and whether single-use plastics have been eliminated. Does the company partner with local suppliers to support local economies? How does it manage its excursions so as not to disrupt host communities? Does it give back to communities and climate science through foundations it has initiated, such as those run by upscale cruise lines Ponant and Hurtigruten? On shore, passengers should aim to spend generously in local communities and avoid tours herded in large groups. While the ship itself may not tread lightly, you still can. Everyone says travelling by train is the way to go to help save the planet, but how clean is rail really? Aren't plenty of trains around the world propelled by diesel rather than electricity? 'Rail travel has a much lower fuel consumption and emissions profile than other modes of transport,' says Liam Davies, associate director of the Melbourne-based Institute for Sensible Transport. 'While electric trains can be zero emission, when run on renewables, diesel trains do have an emissions impact. However, this is much lower than planes. The single biggest thing we can do to reduce our emissions when travelling is to use trains wherever possible. Trains have a small fraction of the emissions profile of planes; in France, high-speed trains emit just 2 per cent of the CO2 of a plane travelling the same route.' Even though Australians wishing to see the world have no option but to fly overseas, once there, 'popular destinations like Europe, Japan and China all have great rail networks, with many high-speed rail options, and some incredibly scenic regular-speed rail too. Taking the train sometimes takes a little bit longer, but you can sit back and enjoy the view, knowing you are reducing your personal emissions by travelling in a lower impact way'. I'm considering a visit to Saudi Arabia. Should I go? 'Everywhere we travel comes with risks and considerations,' says Sean Martin, managing director of Australia, Asia and New Zealand at G Adventures. 'Saudi Arabia is open to tourism, but I'd encourage each traveller to make an informed decision for themselves before going. If you do choose to go, there are so many incredible female-owned businesses there that you can choose to support, and you can put your tourism dollar into businesses and communities that are marginalised. We shouldn't underestimate the force for good that tourism presents. We have the opportunity to distribute wealth through travel and to empower communities that need it the most.' And what about Antarctica? Denise Sablone, executive vice-president of tour development at US-based escorted journeys operator Collette, advises travellers worried about their personal impact on the White Continent to choose companies regulated by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) and the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). 'A less harmful way to visit the most precious and important places on our planet includes small ships with teams of naturalists and scientists on board that can positively educate and influence their guests,' says G Adventures' Martin. Expedition cruise ships can play a crucial role in monitoring the fragile ecosystems of the polar regions. 'We see our travellers as ambassadors, who we know will come back with even more respect and interest in caring for the planet than what they left with.' US President Donald Trump has pulled the US out of the Paris Agreement for a second time. Does it mean I shouldn't visit the US? As of early January, only three countries had not ratified the Paris Agreement, a legally binding international treaty on climate change – Iran, Libya and Yemen. However, Trump withdrew the US from the agreement soon after inauguration, meaning the US is no longer required to provide annual updates on its greenhouse gas emissions. But is the only ethical path for the environmentally conscious traveller to boycott the country? We note the US government doesn't necessarily reflect the feelings of its people on this issue. Hundreds of thousands of Americans have come out in recent times to protest the present administration on many grounds, from tariffs to immigration and environmental policies. The issue for travellers now is also one of personal safety and stringent border control. Are we welcome as visitors to the US? This is a yardstick the thinking traveller should apply to every country they wish to visit. Tipping has become a big issue, even for some Americans. If I do visit the States, should I resist tipping? Isn't it just another kind of tariff? 'When visiting any destination, we know we should be mindful and considerate of the local norms and ways of life,' says Roland Howlett, owner of Virtuoso member travel agency Frontier Travel. 'Tipping in the US is no different. It is deeply embedded in the culture and is a critical part of how many service workers earn their income. Embrace it, and you'll find you enjoy travelling around the US a lot more.' Noosa Cruise & Travel's Natalie Cherry says travellers should always check their bills first as there may already be a tip included. 'Be mindful that their wages are incredibly low, so they rely on a service fee. In general, because of this, they do give exceptional service, so be kind and grateful for this and show your appreciation.' Are there any truly ethical hotel brands I can choose? And how do we know the difference? What do we look for? 'When it comes to ethics, the best thing to look for is always a business that really invests in its people, and the local community,' says sustainable luxury travel expert Juliet Kinsman. 'For me, economic sustainability is what's key. Seek out an independent hotel where the owners have a meaningful connection to that place and are quite literally invested; you know your cash is more likely contributing to them looking after all that's on their doorstep.' Kinsman recommends resources such as The Long Run, Regenerative Travel as well as her own list, Bouteco Loves. Does replacing small plastic water bottles and straws in hotels really make much difference? 'The collective impact of the movement away from single-use plastic in hotels is really powerful and does make a difference,' says Elissa Keenan, chief executive of Ecotourism Australia. 'If people don't think small changes make a difference, I challenge their thinking.' As she points out, one of the single biggest risks to the three species of turtles listed as endangered and three species listed as vulnerable in Australia is plastic pollution. 'Plastic pollution is deadly to sea turtles through ingestion leading to starvation, internal injuries or entanglement resulting in life-threatening injuries. For anyone who has snorkelled or swum with these majestic creatures, or who has dreams of doing so, making small changes cannot be undervalued.' How much so-called greenwashing is really going on, and how can we call it out? 'Yes, there's impact-washing galore,' Kinsman says. 'But dig a little deeper, or to really do your due diligence, give the hotel a call (when did anyone last do that?) and you'll soon get a sense of whether their good work is the real deal or if their virtue signalling is a load of blarney.' She's all for calling out 'greenshifting' (when a hotel doesn't take responsibility for its failings, such as plastic water bottles, and they shift the blame, saying guests insist on single use) and 'greenrinsing' (when they keep changing their targets before achieving them, such as declaring net zero by 2025 but still running on diesel generators). But she's also supportive of 'greenlighting', which she defines as spotlighting the good of an operator, even if it's not 'eco through and through'. Do hotels that want you to keep the white towels and not change the sheets really want to help save the world or just their own bottom line? 'What we definitely need is fewer expressions of being conscious or sustainable without substantiated facts,' says luxury travel expert Kinsman. If a hotel is going to claim a 'nature positive' or 'ocean-friendly' label, they need to back it up with hard evidence. 'Considering laundry gobbles up a huge part of their energy and water budgets, I don't care if they're cutting their turnover for economic benefits, as long as the end result is that they can actually reduce the amount of towels and sheets and all the detergents they use and the fibres they release into our waterways.' How do you know the money you donate to a social enterprise is really going to the right cause? Collette's Sablone says social enterprises typically measure their impact through monitoring and evaluation, tracking the outcomes of their activities to confirm they are making a positive difference in their communities. Resources such as annual reports and partnership pages can be utilised to verify that donations are being used correctly. Transparency and trust are key when supporting social enterprises. 'Don't be afraid to ask many questions and to demand the details, and to see accountability being practised,' says G Adventures' Martin. 'Overtourism occurs when too many visitors flock to a destination, exceeding the local capacity to manage them sustainably,' says Mat Woods, chief executive of New Zealand's Destination Queenstown. 'This can lead to overcrowding, environmental degradation, strained infrastructure, reduced quality of life for residents and a diminished visitor experience.' But places can have both healthy tourist numbers and a happy community if tourism is managed correctly. Queenstown, says Woods, is a good example due to its destination management plan, which outlines a vision for regenerative tourism, with local community input to ensure the region thrives not just economically, but also socially, culturally and environmentally. 'A great place to holiday is a great place to live, so balance is the key,' Keenan adds. What can I do personally to help combat overtourism? Should I just skip places such as Paris, Rome and Venice? When people think of overtourism, they instantly think of 'bucket-list' hotspots such as Paris and Venice, G Adventures' Martin says. 'But what many don't think about is the idea that overtourism can affect small, remote communities as well. Travel should be seen as a force for good, and we shouldn't react to overtourism by turning our back on any one place, city or town. You don't need to rule out a tourist favourite to combat overtourism; you just need to be mindful and conscious about the best way and time to see it.' You can help ease the pressure on a destination by travelling more mindfully, staying longer, travelling off-peak and exploring alternative destinations and second cities. Consider holidaying at home as well, says Keenan, of Ecotourism Australia. 'We are so lucky in Australia to have so many incredible places to go with virtually no crowds. Travellers are increasingly looking for immersive and untouched experiences – we have these in spades right here.' How can I tell if a destination really is doing the right thing? Look closely at its marketing and storytelling, and how it engages with local communities and the environment, says Destination Queenstown's Woods. 'Look for initiatives that both strengthen the economic resilience of the destination and foster connections between visitors, community and those which protect the environment.' I know you shouldn't ride elephants, so is it still OK to ride other animals like camels? 'Whatever the activity, ensure the animal's mental as well as physical needs are provided for,' says John Roberts, group director of sustainability and conservation at the Minor Hotels group. The most important message is to look for science-based welfare certification from any animal excursion, no matter the species, to guarantee the best of care. Is there any way I can pack for a trip that's better for the planet? Packing light reduces your carbon footprint and makes it easier to use trains and buses and not rely on less environmentally forgiving private transportation, says Ecotourism Australia's Keenan. 'Consider whether you really need to buy certain items before you go. If you really want to [do so], purchase them from small businesses or markets in your destination, helping the money stay in that local community.' Loading What's the feeling these days about visiting and supporting zoos around the world? There's still a place for zoos, says Minor Hotels' Roberts, since it's still not possible for everyone to travel to view creatures in the wild and to be inspired to care for the natural world. A licensed and well-regulated zoo, for instance a member of the World Association of Zoos & Aquaria, will be providing the best possible care and, most importantly, will be prevented from being part of the illegal wildlife trade and other anti-conservation measures.' How can I choose an ethical safari, as wild animals can be crowded on some tours? Travel with a company that plays a part in conservation or pays extra for exclusivity, ideally with a local community as benefactors, says Roberts. 'Certainly, it's better for the animals' wellbeing not to be overcrowded, and for conservation in general, but it does come at a price point that excludes the vast majority of people. But overcrowding problems come when the experience is too convenient and cheap.' PLEASE EXPLAIN: WHAT IT ALL MEANS Sustainability Development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. Greenwashing The act of making false or misleading statements about the environmental benefits of a product or practice. Carbon offsets A system of credits used by a company or organisation to compensate for what they are emitting, thereby decreasing their net emissions. Loading Single-use plastic Items such as cling-wrap and plastic straws that are designed for one use only before being discarded. Social enterprise A business designed to achieve specific social objectives as its primary purpose, benefiting marginalised or economically disadvantaged groups by permanently improving their socioeconomic conditions. Regenerative tourism Leaving places you visit in a better state than you found them. Paris Agreement A legally binding international treaty, entered into force in November 2016, with the goal to reduce global greenhouse gas emissions and hold global temperature increase to well below 2°C above pre-industrial levels and pursue efforts to limit it to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels.

‘I've been chasing that feeling ever since': Besha Rodell reflects on her most formative meal at a Melbourne icon

The Age

a day ago

The Age

‘I've been chasing that feeling ever since': Besha Rodell reflects on her most formative meal at a Melbourne icon

Yes, there was a trip to France. A tower of profiteroles at Les Deux Magots. Breakfasts that included flaky, buttery croissants and fine porcelain cups of le chocolat chaud, so thick and creamy it has taken up residence in my sense memory as a paragon of deliciousness. But my journey into a life in food did not begin there. It began in Melbourne, Australia, at a restaurant called Stephanie's. Stephanie's was Melbourne's grandest restaurant at the time, housed in a majestic old home in Hawthorn and run by Stephanie Alexander, a chef who is credited with changing the way Australians ate. She trained many of the cooks who went on to become the country's most prominent chefs. The name Stephanie's was synonymous with the finest dining. In 1984, I was aware of none of this because I was eight and living with my American mother, my Australian father and my three-year-old brother, Fred, in a share house in Brunswick, an inner-north neighbourhood of Melbourne. The hulking old terrace where we lived − white, with black wrought iron framing its verandahs − had previously housed an elderly order of nuns. When my parents rented it, with the idea of filling it full of other like-minded hippie/academic/journalist types, its sweeping staircase and stained-glass windows and high-ceilinged rooms were filthy. They scrubbed it, claimed its grandest bedroom upstairs, and advertised the downstairs rooms for rent. Some of the first housemates they attracted were a single mother and her daughter, Sarah, who was about my age. Sarah was small, with dark hair and freckles and a gap-toothed grin, the opposite of my pudgy, blond, self-conscious self. She quickly became the leader of our gang of two, bossing me into compliance, though I did manage to inspire some awe with my firm belief that I was the queen of the fairies. (At night, while she slept, I flew away to fairyland, where I lived in a rosebush with my many fairy princess daughters. This is the subject for a different book entirely.) The central mythology in Sarah's young life had to do with her father, who was mostly absent. He was, she told me, handsome and rich and lived in a fancy house with his beautiful new wife. (The narrative was quite different when Sarah's mother told the story.) About once a month, Sarah would disappear for the weekend to her father's house and come back with 50-cent pieces that he had given her – more proof that he was 'rich', since our parents would never have bestowed such lavish wealth upon us. I distinctly remember after one such weekend, Sarah leading me dramatically to the milk bar near school and pointing to the wall of candies at the counter. I could pick whichever one I wanted, and she would buy it with her paternally acquired riches. (Did I mention my parents were hippies? Candy was not part of my usual diet.) When Sarah turned nine, her father proved Sarah's mythology by taking both of us for a celebratory birthday meal at the fanciest restaurant in town: Stephanie's. I have almost zero recollection of the food. There was a huge, beautiful chocolate souffle that haunts me to this day, but other than that, I cannot recall a thing I ate. I remember the brocade seating and deep red curtains, which gave everything a feeling of grandeur. I remember the lighting, the tinkle of glasses, the swoosh of the waiters, the mesmerising, intense luxury of it all. I remember feeling special, truly special, that I was allowed into this room where people were spending ungodly amounts of money on something as common as dinner. Quite honestly, I can't remember much about that year or my life at that time, other than the fact that my mother started sleeping with men other than my father and he moved into a different bedroom and cried a lot and then eventually she moved out of the share house and into a tiny, crappy house somewhere else with the guy who would end up becoming my stepfather. But I remember Stephanie's. My family did not frequent restaurants like Stephanie's, and in fact I do not remember any specific restaurant meal in my life before the one that occurred there, although I'm sure there were a few. I didn't need an education in food. I grew up with fantastic food, some of it just as good – and in some ways better! – than what was served at Stephanie's. My father was an academic and an occasional farmer and a gardener and a devotee of Julia Child. I was reared on homegrown fruits and vegetables, rich cream sauces, chocolate mousse made with egg whites and heavy cream and not a lick of gelatin. My mother had melded her American upbringing with her hippie sense of exploration. She spent her earliest years in Hollywood, where my grandfather was a screenwriter and many of his friends were Syrian. Rice and yoghurt became staples of her childhood meals, a tradition she never gave up. My father did most of the cooking while they were together, but when she cooked, lemon juice was added to everything: chicken livers, broccoli with butter, salads full of olives and feta bought from the Greek stalls at the Queen Victoria Market. No, I did not need an education in food. I needed – or more accurately, I desperately wanted – an education in luxury. After my meal at Stephanie's, I began haranguing my parents on my own birthdays. No longer satisfied with the family tradition of picking a favourite home-cooked dish as a birthday meal, I told them I wanted to eat at restaurants instead. They tried. My mother and my new stepfather took us out – now with a baby sister, Grace, in tow – to a neighbourhood Lebanese restaurant for my 11th birthday, something I'm sure they could not afford. I was disappointed. The food was good, but the luxury was lacking. This instinct, this need for extravagance where it is wholly unearned, runs in my family. Wealth has come and gone on both sides of my lineage, but it has never settled in and stayed. My paternal grandfather owned Malties, a cereal company that was one of Australia's most popular brands in the early 20th century. Then he had a heart attack and died, leaving my grandmother with five children and no idea how to run a business, and before long, the cereal company and the grand house in Eltham were lost. My maternal grandfather grew up exceedingly wealthy in Philadelphia and spent his life squandering that wealth on fancy cars and trips to Europe and multiple divorces, including two from my grandmother, all the while fancying himself some sort of genius playwright. Both of my parents grew up resenting the lack of luxury that should have been their birthright. I somehow absorbed that, but from a very early age, the thing I thought I ought to have, in a just world, was meals at fancy restaurants. I did not need an education in food. I needed an education in luxury. Money was a constant stress when I was growing up; I'd be lying if I said it hasn't remained a constant stress in my own adult life. And yet my mother has a thing for vintage cars, French soap, French underwear, Chanel perfume, tiny pieces of luxury that she should not be able to justify given that she is the type of woman who carries an extra canister of gas in her car because she runs out so frequently because she never has the money to fill her tank. (I know this makes no sense; you need not explain that to me.) In fact, the trip to France was a case in point. When I was 13, my mother came into a small amount of money and decided to whisk me off for an around-the-world trip, even though she and my stepfather were struggling with a mortgage and my sister Grace was a toddler and leaving her alone with my stepfather for months to take me to France and America was a wholly ridiculous thing to do. But this is my mother we're talking about, who drove a vintage red MGB convertible rather than a normal car, who believed her teenage daughter must see Paris to understand the brand of sophistication she believed we deserved to inhabit. I have endeavoured, in my life, to be more pragmatic. I have mostly failed. If I thirst for designer clothes, I know how to find them in thrift stores. I do not long for money, other than the kind that relieves you of the deep, existential dread that accompanies poverty. What I long for – what I've longed for since I was eight years old, sitting wide-eyed in that grand restaurant – is the specific opulence of a very good restaurant. I never connected this longing to the goal of attaining wealth; in fact, it was the pantomiming of wealth that appealed. I did not belong in that grand room! And yet there I was! It was intoxicating. I have been chasing that feeling ever since. This is an edited extract from Hunger Like a Thirst by Besha Rodell, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $35

Look beyond New Zealand's ‘big' resorts for a more serene ski adventure

Hashtags

Try Our AI Features

Comments

Related Articles

Should you boycott the US? The 20 biggest questions in travel right now

Should you boycott the US? The 20 biggest questions in travel right now

‘I've been chasing that feeling ever since': Besha Rodell reflects on her most formative meal at a Melbourne icon

Look beyond New Zealand's ‘big' resorts for a more serene ski adventure

Hashtags

Try Our AI Features

Comments

Related Articles

Should you boycott the US? The 20 biggest questions in travel right now

Should you boycott the US? The 20 biggest questions in travel right now

‘I've been chasing that feeling ever since': Besha Rodell reflects on her most formative meal at a Melbourne icon

Get Started Now: Download the App