Highlights From A Fun, Very Filling Food Tour Of New York City

Forbes

3 hours ago

You've got a week to eat your way around New York, but how do you tackle creating a to-do list in a city packed with endless options for spectacular meals? It's daunting, but here's a game plan that focuses on deep dives into several neighborhoods.
A food-centric tour of New York City should always include a trip to Brooklyn.
Old favorites, new discoveries
My friend, Mai Ling, and I travel well together, sharing the food-focused mission of eating everything, everywhere, anytime. We'd had an absolute blast hitting the hot spots in New Orleans during JazzFest a couple of years ago. When we discussed where to go as a follow-up, New York City landed at the top of the list. She'd never been there as an adult, and encouraged me to come up with a list of essential spots to hit including returning to some all-time faves.
We started a shared doc and I hit on a game plan that involved a lot of moving around, shifting from one neighborhood to another so we could soak up the flavor of where we were staying. In between meals, there'd be museum visits, Broadway and off-Broadway shows, an author reading, the Juneteeth celebration in Central Park and a whole slew of selfies in front of iconic buildings. Hello, Radio City Music Hall, we're going full-on tourist mode, don't judge.
By the end of the trip, we were lamenting that we couldn't stay longer and eat more. Still, we got a pretty good taste of the most incredible dining destination on the planet. Here's the skinny.
Braised oxtail at Kokomo in Brooklyn's North Williamsburg neighborhood is a must-try when visiting ... More this lively restaurant.
A soft landing in Dumbo
After checking into the gorgeous 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge late on a Saturday, we headed up to Harrient's on the rooftop. It was like walking into a party, tables packed with Saturday night dates and big groups of stylishly dressed weekend revelers enjoying cocktails and shared plates from the eclectic Asian-inspiried menu while the DJ set the mood and turned up the volume.
We devoured the Crispy Rice and Spicy Tuna, a playful take on nigiri sushi, the Gulf Coast rock shrimp with spicy aioli and, especially enjoyed the oyster mushroom bao. Those meaty mushrooms sauced in hoisin and tucked into the squishy bun were complemented by a tangy mix of pickled veggies.
After dinner, we walked around the bustling waterfront park and later debated whether to leave the curtains open so we could wake up to that stunning view of one of the world's most famous bridges. When I made a comical attempt to sing Sinatra's classic, hitting the line about waking up in a city that never sleeps, Mai Ling said: 'I thought that was Vegas.'
The next morning, we took the ferry up the East River to North Williamsburg to brunch at Kokomo, a lively spot that had been recommended by a well-fed friend. Power couple Ria and Kevol Graham's love letter to the foods of the Caribbean is a beautiful space that was packed with families celebrating Father's Day. We were so happy with our order, which included fork-tender oxtail and perfect plantains in a Scotch Bonnet mango sauce, but also couldn't help admiring the other pretty plates coming out of the kitchen. Definitely worth a return trip sometime.
We took the ferry across to Manhattan and walked to the Chain Theatre for the final performance of playwright (and cookbook author) Tim Mulligan's 'supernatural dramedy', 'Point Loma', meeting up with friends who've known Mulligan for many years. The show was hilarious and jump-out-of-your-seat spooky.
After, we tagged along with our pals for dinner at their family's home back in Brooklyn. Dining out is almost always a pleasure, but nothing compares to the thrill of Southern comfort food made with love. Thanks for the warm welcome and that excellent etoufee, Rachel and Moss, and for introducing us to the knockout bread from She Wolf Bakery. Yes, please, we'll take a few slices home to our comfy hotel.
A Reuben at Katz's is the classic New York City meal, the popular deli making its customers happy ... More since 1888.
Bye Brooklyn, hello Soho
It was a relatively easy move from the 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge to the art-filled ModernHaus in the heart of the Manhattan, where we dropped our bags and headed out on foot with one mission in mind: A Reuben at Katz's. In a city packed with world-class delis, this blast-from-the-past never disappoints. Stand in line for a sandwich with pastrami skillfully carved to order and the team behind the counter is likely to pass a plate with snack preview of what's coming. The deeply flavored cured and smoked meat reminds me a little bit of the best kind of barbecued brisket, its deeply flavored 'bark' setting the tone for the sensational sandwich to come. We split that Reuben and ordered a pickle plate, naturally, took a seat a shared table and the moans of unbashed pleasure began. It was messy, but, boy, is it perfect. Not an adjective I use lightly.
After lunch, we stopped for some snacking supplies at the original Russ & Daughters – loved the whitefish spread on our leftover bread – and wandered the streets of Chinatown with no particular plan. The architecture, the brick and stone masonry on display throughout the city, made us wish we'd connected with a walking tour of some of the landmark buildings. But you cannot possibly do everything and after all that exploring, we started to get hungry again.
Another friend, award-winning author Jess Walter, was appearing at Symphony Space on the Upper West Side that evening to talk about his latest book, 'So Far Gone', with 'Where'd You Go Bernadette' author Maria Semple doing the on stage interview and actor Tim Daly reading from the opening chapter of the work that's been getting rave reviews. (Finished listening to the audiobook performed by Edoardo Ballerini on the flight home and LOVED it!)
Carmine's on New York City's Upper West Side is known and loved for its platter-size portions of ... More Italian classics.
But first, how about a little bite at Carmine's? LOL. Because there's no such thing as a small portion at this outpost of the original Carmine's, known for its massive platters of food passed among large parties. No problem, let's just share an order of spaghetti and meatballs. Surely we can plow through that.
Yes, I realize this place might make the food snob roll their eyes, but I love the Old School approach to service, the grand space and, yes, the red sauce'd dish so dramatically served tableside. Plus, the people watching was fantastic and just about every other song on the sound system was Sinatra. I'm a lifelong fan of Ol' Blue Eyes, my parents spinning his records while I was learning to walk.
Day 3, MoMA and much more
If you've ever tried to plan a trip with friends, you have probably experienced the frustration that goes along with trying to sync busy schedules. During our action-packed week in NYC, the scheduling stars lined up and we were able to connect with far-flung friends who just happened to there at the same time, or who live there and were willing to carve out some room on the calendar for a visit and a nosh.
So it went for a magical morning at MoMA when we met up with Mai Ling's Seattle-based friends, Rachel and Allistair. Yes, the galleries featuring the best known works were ultra-crowded, so we headed to the top floor to experience the incredible pieces created by Jack Whitten, a prolific New York artist who woked in various mediums starting in the 1950s. It was incredibly moving, especially in the section where jazz was softly playing. Whitten was friends with many musicians, so this striking combo seemed so fitting.
We decided to walk the several miles back to Soho on Broadway, with a stop for lunch along the way. Oh, wait, let's stop for a compost cookie at Milk Bar. Good thing we were averaging 7 miles a day, at least according to those electronic devices we're so attached to.
Later, on our stroll from Soho to the East Village for a drink at the extraordinary Monsieur, I insisted we stop at the Grillo's Pickles pop-up on Rivington, and randomly ran into the ground-breaking company's Employee No. 1, Eddie Andre. The VP of Marketing insisted we try the latest, a pickled grape. Pucker up, it's another winner from this fun company.
The Baz Luhrmann-designed bar delivered on its promised dramatic vibe, often described as a mix of gothic, medieval, and bohemian. All that's cool, but what made the visit extra special was the talented crew behind the bar and the warm greeting we received even when walking in without a reservation. Bravo to the best NA cocktail I sipped the entire week in the city, a perfectly balanced creation that featured hibiscus, citrus and fresh mint.
Grandma Style Pan Pizza at Loring Place might have the best name for a pie in NYC.
We met friends for dinner at one of their favorite haunts, Loring Place near Washington Square. It was a lovely reunion with David and Katherine, who have lived in the city since 2012, conversation fueled by swoons over Asparagus Fries with Parm-spiked mayo, grilled Arctic char, saucy short ribs and a whole wheat pizza with the most charming name ever. Grandma Style pan pizza was nothing short of heartwarming.
Lobster rolls at Le Bernardin in New York City take that summer classic and add an ultra-luxe spin, ... More a butter sauce drizzled tableside.
Broadway and Le Bernardin
For our final sprint of this epic trip, we stayed at a couple of hotels that are blocks apart in Midtown, but completely different. Both experiences were fantastic, starting with an overnight at Lotte New York Palace. Walk in the lobby and you're going to get a case of the Wows at this historic hotel. Wow times infinity if you're into the lore of the Gilded Age on display in exquisite detail at what began as a cluster of townhomes commissioned in the late 1800s by German-born journalist, financial whiz and railroad tycoon, Henry Villard.
While it was temping to get cozy in our super posh quarters, we had a full day that included a matinee performance of the Tony-winning sensation, 'Sunset Boulevard' – prepare to be dazzled – followed by a drink and appies at chef Eric Ripert's signature sensation, Le Bernardin. Standing ovations for both! I cannot stop humming that Andrew Lloyd Weber title song and will forever be spoiled for every lobster roll after the glorious rendition of that summer time classic, which I savored in the elegant bar at this seafood-centric spot.
A flight of Dahlmore Scotch at Rarities in Manhattan's Lotte Palace Hotel included a selection that ... More was 25 years old.
We finished the evening with a memorable tasting at the Palace's hideaway bar, Rarities, where single malt Scotch enthusiast, Mai Ling, swirled, sniffed and sipped a flight of Dahlmore selected by gracious spirit guide, Raphael. The private club accepts reservations from Palace guests at what Condé Nast Traveler called the world's most exclusive hotel bar. Yet, for all its rich history and storied collection of wine and spirits, the room feels warm and welcoming, not stuffy. Worth noting, it's only open weekday evenings.
On our final stay, CitizenM Times Square could be characterized as the polar opposite of the Palace, but it's certainly not low-end compared to the high-end creature comforts offered at the crosstown neighbor. I'm a fan of this super-creative Netherlands-based hotel brand, its snug rooms complimented by inviting public spaces buzzing with clever art, cool cocktails, Instagram-worthy outdoor spaces and an innovative breakfast bar.
While staying there, we traveled up to Central Park on the subway to catch a wonderful Juneteenth celebration put on by the Central Park Conservancy. The event was filled with beautiful musical performances, poetry and a history lesson about Seneca Village, 'the largest community of free African-American property owners in pre–Civil War New York.' Until city leaders enacted emminet domain to displace residents and build the park.
Red Rooster in New York City's Harlem neighborhood is known for its innovative takes on Southern ... More comfort food. Shrimp and grits, collard greens, fried chicken and deviled eggs are among the must-try lineup at Marcus Samuelsson's restaurant.
In spectacular summer weather fashion, the afternoon was punctuated by deafening cracks of thunder and torrential downpours. We took a cue from savvy New Yorkers and sheltered under one of the stone bridges before continuing our walk to Harlem for a reservation at Red Rooster.
I snagged a table a month ahead of our visit and when we arrived, there was a huge crowd hoping for something to open up. What so impressed me was the unruffled way the front-of-the-house team handled the crush. Ditto the treatment dished out by the seasoned waitstaff who seemed to float through this art-filled space, taking orders and delivering delicious food like it was a choreographed dance.
While savoring the groaning table's worth of deviled eggs, shrimp and grits, exceptional collard greens and fried chicken, we hashed out the highlights of our successful trip to the Big Apple. This meal was at the top of the most-loved list, though there was a lot of competition for the best-of spots. In fact, except for a lukewarm slice of in the Theater District, we'd had absolutely stellar meals throughout the trip. Yes, we'll be back, and yes, we'll stay longer next time.