What to wear in the UAE: tips for understanding (and mastering) modest fashion

The National

a day ago

When Dubai content creator Jacquelyn Bagan recently uploaded a video to Instagram sharing her thoughts on modest dressing for women at Dubai Mall, she couldn't have imagined her post would go viral, let alone be liked by Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed, Crown Prince of Dubai, Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Defence.
For the Canadian national, who has lived in the UAE for nine years, modest fashion has long been her go-to when out and about in public, and she was inspired to post about respecting UAE cultural customs by urging others to 'doing it right'.
'I wear my abaya looks all the time and have a very close relationship with my modest style,' she says. 'I didn't always dress this way, but I think as you grow older and mature, your style also matures.
'There are places where it is appropriate to wear certain things. If you want to wear a bathing suit at the beach, no problem. Wear what you like at nightclubs – you just need to be appropriate.'
The mother-of-one's post resonated with many women who shared their thoughts in video's comments, sparking a discussion about modest fashion and how tourists, expats and residents alike can respect the cultural values of the UAE.
What is modest fashion?
Modest fashion prioritises covering the body in a conservative manner, choosing clothes that that skim rather than hug, all without sacrificing personal style or missing out on following trends.
'While the definition of modesty varies across cultures and individuals, modest fashion generally emphasises clothing that offers more coverage, focusing on designs that are not too revealing or form-fitting,' says Esma Hmadouch, co-founder of Les Atelier, a Dubai modest fashion company. 'The goal is to create a sense of elegance and dignity while remaining comfortable and true to one's values. It's not just about covering up, but about doing so in a stylish, fashionable way. Modest fashion doesn't have to be boring or lack personality.'
For Celina Kalfane, who founded the website themuslimstylist.com, her early struggles to find her personal style after she converted to Islam lead her to study fashion design and become a stylist and personal shopper to help others.
'It is just about dressing in a way that respects your personal, cultural and spiritual values, or just dressing how you feel most comfortable,' Kalfane says. 'For many women it may be about looser cuts, longer hems or higher necklines. Or it may be about wearing a headscarf, but that's not only for Muslim women.'
What should you wear in the UAE?
Familiarising yourself with a country's customs and norms is an essential part of travelling or moving to a new country. In the UAE many public and government buildings feature signs advising on the expected dress code for both men and women.
'If you're in public spaces such as malls, the cinema or walking in the city, cover your shoulders and wearing something to the knees is my main advice,' says Bagan. 'If you want to wear a tank top, take a cardigan to wear over the top. Or if you're in a tight dress, wear a loose linen shirt over the top.'
Striking a balance between maintaining your individual style and respecting local and regional customs is about finding pieces that offer a more fluid silhouette and, importantly in the heat, in breathable fabrics.
'Dressing modestly is not about giving up your identity,' says Kalfane. 'A lot of people are surprised at how elegant modest dressing can feel. It could just be a few more inches that you cover; it's a small gesture and it goes a long way to help you blend in and or avoid causing offence, which is important when you're a guest in another country.'
'Skip the offensive prints,' says Ozlem Sahin Ertas, founder of the Global Modest Fashion Weeks by Think Fashion. 'Don't wear clothes with rude words or controversial images and respect religious sites, so if you visit a mosque, women should cover their hair and dress conservatively. I would also suggest being more modest in less urban places.'
Many UAE government buildings also restrict access to men wearing vests and shorts that are cut above the knee. Dubai Mall's website states: 'Kindly wear respectful clothing. Shoulders and knees should be covered.'
Modest fashion goes mainstream
Style experts point to the enduring 'quiet luxury' trend, in which the focus is on fabric, craftsmanship and a muted colour palette over logos and branding, as being key to bringing modest fashion to the sartorial forefront.
'I think fashion has become more modest over the years and that ties into the quiet luxury trend and brands like The Row and Loro Piana which are really having a moment,' says Dubai stylist, Kate Hazell.
Hazell, who has worked with the likes of Naomi Campbell, Lewis Hamilton, Chris Evans and Georgia Jagger, says the modest aesthetic inherent in the quiet luxury brands means it's never been easier – or more on trend – to try modest fashion.
'Essentially the modest DNA of those brands has trickled down to the high street,' she says. 'It's about covering up and not showing your skin, and you'll find so many options for pieces like oversized shirts and maxi skirts in stores like Zara and Massimo Dutti, meaning it's not hard to adopt modest fashion on any budget.'
It's easy to think of items like the abaya when considering a looser silhouette, but there are plenty of modest fashion options other than the traditional dress.
'Modest fashion offers a wide spectrum of brands across various price points, each with their own take on sub-styles of modesty,' says Ertas. 'A natural-fabric maxi dress with half or long sleeves is a perfect summer essential – comfortable and effortlessly stylish. Two-piece loose sets are incredibly versatile, taking you seamlessly from day to night. Modest fashion encourages creativity as mixing and matching is key.'
Modest fashion: not just about religion or culture
'Modest fashion is not necessarily tied to religion or culture, although it's often inspired by those factors,' says Hmadouch. 'Whether you're following religious guidelines, cultural norms, or simply prefer more coverage, modest fashion gives you the opportunity to wear what feels authentic and empowering.'
Kalfane points to the different forms of modest dressing around the world as proof the concept can have many influences: 'So many cultures celebrate modesty, such as boo boos in West Africa and kimonos in Japan. In Scandinavian countries, it's very much about oversized clean lines that are minimalist and still very elegant.'
Changes in life, circumstances, personal preference and even ageing can all influence a move towards a more modest way of dressing.
'I've definitely become more modest and conservative over the 20 years I have been in Dubai,' says Hazell. 'I think the culture here has seeped in and it's hard to separate that from me getting older and becoming a mother and where I am in life.
'My style has evolved. I enjoy dressing modestly, I find it much more interesting as you can be more creative. It's all about styling and layering, and I find that quite satisfying.'