Japan's next big thing is already popular, but many miss its highlights
In Kanazawa it's clear the city is no stranger to visitors. Several hours north of Kyoto and touted as Japan's 'next big thing' it's been nicknamed 'little Kyoto' for its Edo-period architecture and rich tradition of arts and crafts.
It's here that my guide has come to meet me at my hotel and take me on a tour of Kanazawa's greatest hits.
Despite heavy rain, the city's beautiful gardens are full of visitors. The Higashi-chaya teahouse district is bustling, but the Geisha Museum is surprisingly empty when we visit. We slip out into the surrounding streets of this old town and encounter peaceful cafes and narrow lanes where the only sets of eyes belong to curious cats that peer out of windows, following you.
It's the start of a tour with a difference. Swept into a carefully curated adventure that uncovers the secret side of this country with Inside Japan on their Hidden Zen itinerary, I'm seeing what many tourists miss. What's more I'm travelling solo for full immersion.
Still in Kanazawa, Omicho Market is another highlight and a much more relaxed experience compared to Kyoto's Nishiki Market. Here, I take my time exploring without being rushed by crowds.
Oden Miyuki is a cozy eatery serving Kanazawa's best oden – a hotpot of umami-rich dashi broth, simmering vegetables, kurumafu (a wheat ball which soaks up the flavour) and tofu. It's possibly one of the most deliciously ugly meals I've had in Japan, accompanied by creamy potato salad, savoury miso, and a refreshing yuzu-flavoured beer. On this wintry day, locals line outside the restaurant at 4pm, signalling just how beloved this place is.
A 15-minute train ride south of Kanazawa is Kaga Onsen, the 1300-year-old town famous for its healing springs and I'm staying at KAI Kaga, a ryokan housed in a 400-year-old former tofu shop. The converted building with its red facade is filled with Japanese art and has a particular focus on Kutani porcelain.
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