I spent 96 hours in 'little London', where life is easier
There are many obvious contenders for a city break in Europe, but with tried and tested destinations pushing back against tourists, I took a gamble on Gothenburg.
With rainy winters, ties to Britain dating back 200 years and dozens of proper pubs, the port is affectionately known as Sweden's 'Little London'.
If it sounds dull, it's not — this understated but slick city is enjoying a resurgence as an alternative place to visit.
And, with every passing hour of my four-day trip to 'Stockholm's rougher cousin', it was easier to see why.
Gothenburg is less than a two-hour flight from London, and the favourable rate of the Kroner against the Pound means prices are 30% less than they were two years ago. English is spoken fluently almost everywhere.
Here is a comprehensive itinerary for a long weekend that covers everything you should do, at surprisingly affordable prices.
Gothenburg's Landwetter airport is close to the city, and a 30-minute ride on one of the regular buses (£9) takes you to three central locations.
Next to the stop in the heart of the event district is Gothia Towers, a basic but comfortable hotel with rooms from £79 per night. It's a solid base for exploring the city that won't break the bank.
Opposite is the Liseberg, one of Europe's leading amusement parks, known for its great rides, concerts and gardens.
If that's not your thing, a short walk is the Grand Boulevard Avenyn, modelled on Paris' iconic Champs-Élysées. An imposing statue of Poseidon overlooks the upscale boutiques and trendy restaurants lining the street.
Gothenburg is served by an efficient and well-connected network of trams and buses that run out to Magasinsatan, a stylish neighbourhood of Swedish brands, interior design stores and second-hand shops — something the country as a whole does incredibly well.c
A day in Sweden would not be complete with fika , the delightful custom of enjoying coffee and cake with a friend. The most popular choice is a traditional cinnamon bun, and the best stop in Gothenburg is De Matteo.
Rested and refuelled, move on to Stora Saluhallen, a character-filled market with 40 shops and restaurants where you can find a surprisingly reasonable lunch.
For something more refined, head back to Gothia Towers and take the lift to Heaven 23, a rooftop restaurant with a panoramic view and superb food. The £45pp price for three courses (without wine) is worth every penny.
Rise early and take a tram to the central Harbour Lilla Bommen for a guided boat tour with Stromma.
The two-and-a-half-hour cruise costs £32 (or £42, with lunch) and sails past the scenic islands of Gothenburg archipelago. The fare is simple but tasty, although it was difficult to hear the English commentary above the noise of the ship.
Back on dry land, the Gothenburg Museum of Art (£5.45 entry fee) has an extensive collection from the 15th century to today, with significant Nordic and international work including masterpieces by Rembrandt, Picasso and Van Gogh.
On a warm day a lovely perch is the outdoor café, but when I visited in March the chill drew me to the bar and a conversation with 21-year-old barman Mat, who really loved his hometown.
For Mat, Gothenburg's appeal is not just that everything works, as I could see in the way everyone calmly navigated the complex mix of pedestrians, bikes, trams, buses and cars. It's also because, in his words, even the little things function so well.
Something I didn't have time to try but comes highly recommended is an afternoon at Pachanga Pool Club and Spa, located inside Jacy'z Hotel and Resort.
On TikTok, the spa has caught the attention of 'extreme day trippers', who fly out from the UK and come back on the same day. Some content creators claim to have got there and back for £79, with spa entry adding £29 extra.
To end the day, it's hard to look past a 'treat yourself' dinner at one of Gothenburg's five Michelin-starred restaurants.
I opted for SK Mat and Manniskor, which serves divine four-course meals of that begin with haddock and wasabi, smoked cheese, salted green tomatoes, and Red Char with roasted onions and almond oil.
The main dish was lamb with ramson, grilled tomatoes, broccoli and sherry vinegar and a dessert of toffee ice cream with raspberry foam, hazelnuts and sorrel.
It was an amazing experience and the price was… Michelin star.
A change of pace now, and on to the World of Volvo in the centre of the city. Entrance is free for the main space and for children, but there is a cost of £15 for adults to enter the exhibition area.
Few things inspire pride in a Gothenburger more than this iconic car company. Sweden is famed for its engineering and the car is a Swedish symbol of excellence.
My enthusiastic guide Paul gave me the corporate history, beginning with the need for excellent design and engineering to combat Sweden's harsh roads and climate. Many successful car models are on show but there are also glimpses of the failures.
A plastic sports car was abandoned after only 67 had been produced, but a vehicle designed by a woman-only team produced many ideas which were then put into the mainstream.
Exhibits are child-friendly, and the museum is also a great place to eat. A high-standard buffet available during the week is £12.00 for an adult and £6.50 for children.
My only regret was that I had not scheduled this trip for a Monday as it is one of the few local attractions open when most of the museums are closed.
Dinner that night was at Natur, a restaurant of extremely high quality without a high price, and rather romantic too. It's ideal for sober-curious travellers or anyone not interested in booze, as the drinks made from berries and non-alcoholic beers were exceptionally tasty.
Full of atmosphere, one of the most famous buildings in Gothenburg is the 1874 Feskekörka (the fish church), which has recently reopened after an extensive renovation.
This market hall is a must-visit for those who love seafood. It gets its name from its architecture: pointed arched windows and no partitions or pillars, so it really looks like a church. There was a choice of two delicious 'catch of the day' lunches at £10, including coffee. More Trending
From there, make your way on foot to the Haga area, Gothenburg's oldest neighbourhood, dotted with charming shops and cosy cafés. @goteborgcom
10 must-dos in Gothenburg that you simply can't miss out on 😍 🎡 Visit Europe's best amusement park @Liseberg ☕️ Take a Swedish Fika break in Haga 🖼️ Visit the splendid Gothenburg Museum of Art ⚓️ Take a day trip to the Gothenburg archipelago 🌇 Take in the city view from Skansen Kronan 🍺 Try Gothenburg's local craft beer 🦈 Explore the ocean, rainforest and space at @Universeum Science Centre 🛍️Shop Swedish design and vintage fashion 🍽️ Eat fish and seafood straight from the ocean 🌹 Visit world-class parks and gardens Read the full guide at goteborg.com (link in profile). #gothenburg #göteborg #sweden #thisisgbg #traveltok #gothenburgthingstodo #liseberg ♬ City Lights (Lofi) – 808godz
For my last visit before departure, I squeezed in an hour at the Science Museum, Universeum, starting at the top floor around the four climate zones of Earth.
The abiding memory is of the aquaria and the reptile house, including a fun but shocking model of how a snake bites. Then brief visits to the space exhibits on the fourth floor and the chemistry lab and models of the human body one floor below.
All proof that the recommended three hours for a visit if anything was an underestimate. Appreciation was well expressed by the delight on the faces of the many children visiting.
How to get there
London Manchester and Edinburgh airports have flights direct to Gothenberg.
From London: Ryanair – Stansted. British Airways – Heathrow. Norwegian – Gatwick. Prices from £34 return with Ryanair.
Best time to go
Between May and September for good weather and to experience the city's lively atmosphere. June until August is the busy peak tourist season.
Where to stay
Gothenburg is one of Europe's most sustainable hotel cities.
Gothia Towers: A set of three towers serviced by spectacular lifts providing dozens of rooms with a fabulous view of the city. Excellent breakfasts.
Standard rooms from £79(2 pp sharing and breakfast & wifi included) and premium rooms from £108 (2pp sharing and breakfast & wifi included).
Dorsia Boutique Hotel: Standard room from £174 (2pp sharing and breakfast & wifi included). Service is five-star.
Radisson Blu Riverside Hotel: This hotel is across the river from the city, so you need to take a 10 min ferry + 5 min tram to get to the centre – that's why it's a bit cheaper. Standard room from £58 (2pp sharing, breakfast not included.)
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