Baba G in Orange Circle keeps the flavors of Byblos Cafe on the menu

Los Angeles Times

29-05-2025

Byblos Cafe served Mediterranean cuisine and was a favorite in the Orange Circle for 36 years. It even became a go-to spot for other restaurateurs in the area, like JT Reed, a co-founder of Bosscat Kitchen & Libations across the street.
'JT was eating here every day and loved it,' said Tim Mahshi, son of the original owners of Byblos, Adel and Zalfa Mahshi. 'He got to know my parents and said if we were ever interested in selling, to let him know.'
Coincidentally, that inquiry was not dissimilar to the way the Mahshis first acquired Byblos Cafe back in 1989.
'This place used to be a Mediterranean market and my father would shop here,' said Mahshi.
His father was drawn to the old brick structures and vintage architecture of Old Town Orange.
'The small town feel reminded him of his home town in Lebanon,' he said.
During the 10 years Mahshi's father spent buying Arabic cuisine ingredients and goods from the store, he always reminded the owners that if they ever wanted to sell, he was interested.
'It took 10 years, but then one day the owner agreed to sell it to him because they won the lottery,' said Mahshi. 'In a way, it was like my father won the lottery, too, because he finally got the store.'
The Mahshis continued the business as a market and deli, occasionally offering hot prepared food specials, inspired by their Lebanese heritage. The food was a hit and in 1996 the family remodeled the store into a cafe, switching the focus to food service.
'We had little marble tables out here and everyone would be playing backgammon and drinking Turkish coffee,' Mahshi said. 'It was very much like the cafes in Lebanon.'
When it came time for Mahshi to take over the business from his parents in 2018, he prepared for a remodel but was then diagnosed with colitis, an inflammation of the large intestine.
'We obviously wanted to keep this as legacy in the family, but then I got sick,' Mahshi said.
Around the same time, Reed was turning Rod's Liquor Store across the street into a Bosscat Kitchen location, one of the brands he operates under Daily Dose Hospitality with his business partner, Leslie Nguyen.
Mahshi's mother had a good feeling about Reed and set up a meeting to talk seriously with him about selling. After Reed heard that prior to Mahshi's diagnosis the senior Mahshis had been hoping their son would take over the business, he offered to become a partner, to collaborate and mentor Mahshi so the family could keep it.
'I wasn't sure what my timetable was, because I was still really sick,' said Mahshi. 'JT said, 'Take as much time as you need.''
The two operated the place as Byblos Cafe for two more years, until last week, that is, when they reopened as Baba G, a reference to baba ghanoush but also to Adel Mahshi with 'baba' meaning 'dad' in Arabic.
The business made the transition from full service to quick service with customers ordering at the counter. While the menu retains many of the flavors and recipes that made Byblos Cafe a favorite, like chicken shawarma and fried cauliflower, there is a renewed focus on healthy eating.
'With my health issues I've always dreamed of having a place that is as seed oil free as possible; somewhere you can eat every day and not feel bad, but in fact feel better,' Mahshi said.
The new menu is 98% seed oil free, with only four items using seed oils. The menu invites diners to customize their meal by choosing a base of rice, lettuce or pita wrap, then a protein like the famed chicken shawarma, falafel or lean beef filet, and toppings like sumac onions, Arabic pickles, tabbouleh, feta cheese, hummus and tahini.
'The food that we do is made with love,' said Mahshi.
The partners knew change would be hard for some of their longtime customers.
'Again, this is like a small town, and we had a lot of loyal customers that we had before my parents retired. People thought the big Bosscat company was coming in to take over the mom-and-pop shop, but that's not what happened,' said Mahshi. 'If anything, [Reed] is the reason why we are still here and this is still in my family legacy.'
They have also seen many old customers return, as word spreads of the reopening. On a recent afternoon, Mahshi high-fived people coming in and waved with familiarity to families walking up to the counter with children. He is glad people seem to be welcoming the change.
'Great things don't just last forever, you have to keep evolving to keep them great,' said Mahshi.
So what do his parents think of the new concept?
'They love it,' said Mahshi.
Baba G is located at 129 W. Chapman Ave. in Orange and open Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.